Another QTP HVMC install... Looonnnnggg
07-11-2006, 06:30 PM
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Another QTP HVMC install... Looonnnnggg Howdy everyone! Well, if you haven' t had your fill, here is another QTP install.
Well, it actually went pretty well. At least as good as the last time for the most part. I have installed QTP headers three times now, twice on my car ( standard collector then HVMC ) and just installed a set with my brother on his car. I was prepared for everything we faced, except for how long it look ( about 15 hours total. )
I did the usual disassembly, when doing LTs. Pull the right side coil pack assembly, and dipstick. Right side went in easy, once the car was dangerously high enough. Left side fought us a bit and I pulled the steering shaft and it went right in. Now, because this car had a steering column replaced, it otherwise would probably not have been necessary. After the shaft was out, we pushed it up there, and it was fine and dandy. Then it got interesting, again...
On my car, my standard collector QTPs went right in and bolted straight up. EASY. No grinding, banging, or otherwise. HVMCs on my car, three months later, and had to grind up the k-member a bit. Same with my brother' s car.
I ended up cutting out about a 1.5" X 1.5" square where the #2 primary passes over the k-member. Then I spent a good about of time grinding it to a form similar to the primary shape for adequate clearance. Cleaned it up, primed it, shot it black. Done. No problem.
Now I did have a problem with one of the primaries getting really close to the right unibody rail. It hasn' t hit yet, but my brother' s header fit better. I have a couple photos of the standard and HVMC collectors on my car, and one can easily see the difference in pipe shapes between the two. They may have had to change the primaries to accomidate the HVMC collector, but, there is a distingushable difference. Anyways...
Tightened down both sides, threw the shaft on, plugs, wires, dipstick tube, and coil pack. No problem.
Now to the y-pipe. Now I have always been supportive of QTPs and their y-pipes, but this weekend was a reminder of what a PITA they are. Admittedly, were it not for the SLP SFCs it would not have been a problem, so you guys keep that in mind. I had to trim a bit on the driver' s side legs to clear the SFC and I still have a bit of adjustment I have to do once we get some replacement clamps in. Ground clearance is minimal at best, on stock suspension, so lowered guys look out. Otherwise trimmed a couple inches off the y-pipe and called it good.
Now, I offer just a couple things to think about, if you like:
1) The clamps that are included are not my bag, baby. The crush the pipes more than they seal them and hold them together. I don' t know if it' s because the joints are stretched too much, or what, but, I like Walker stainless steel lap-joint style clamps. They don' t crush the joints and pipes together, adding leaks, and they have this sticky crap that squeezes into the joint that help prevent leaks. They look just like the wide clamps one sees on bigrig exhaust.
2) Get the car up HIGH, safely. The headers have to go in close to completely perpendicular and if the car isn' t high enough, they aren' t going in. Use you jack and stands safely!!!
3) Do your plugs, wires, and maybe even mounts at the same time.
4) Test fit the LTs before bolting them down. I would have been pizzed off if we got the y-pipe on there before seeing the k-member clearnace.
5) Take your time. I know a lot of people take less time to install LTs, but, we didn' t break anything, stress out, or damage those jewels installing them. I had a good time in fact.
6) Test fit and lube up the lap-joints on the y-pipe. The more spinning and movement you have, the easier it is going to be adjusting it. If you have double-diamond-style SFCs, you' re going to need all the adjustment you can get.
7) Get a Mufflex clamp. In order to get the converter and left side pipe tucked up good, and keep from banging, you need to preload that hanger to keep it from bouncing into the floor.
Hopefully, this was a little help. Sorry so long, but I wanted to share and maybe a newbie may benifit.
Good luck!!!
Well, it actually went pretty well. At least as good as the last time for the most part. I have installed QTP headers three times now, twice on my car ( standard collector then HVMC ) and just installed a set with my brother on his car. I was prepared for everything we faced, except for how long it look ( about 15 hours total. )
I did the usual disassembly, when doing LTs. Pull the right side coil pack assembly, and dipstick. Right side went in easy, once the car was dangerously high enough. Left side fought us a bit and I pulled the steering shaft and it went right in. Now, because this car had a steering column replaced, it otherwise would probably not have been necessary. After the shaft was out, we pushed it up there, and it was fine and dandy. Then it got interesting, again...
On my car, my standard collector QTPs went right in and bolted straight up. EASY. No grinding, banging, or otherwise. HVMCs on my car, three months later, and had to grind up the k-member a bit. Same with my brother' s car.
I ended up cutting out about a 1.5" X 1.5" square where the #2 primary passes over the k-member. Then I spent a good about of time grinding it to a form similar to the primary shape for adequate clearance. Cleaned it up, primed it, shot it black. Done. No problem.
Now I did have a problem with one of the primaries getting really close to the right unibody rail. It hasn' t hit yet, but my brother' s header fit better. I have a couple photos of the standard and HVMC collectors on my car, and one can easily see the difference in pipe shapes between the two. They may have had to change the primaries to accomidate the HVMC collector, but, there is a distingushable difference. Anyways...
Tightened down both sides, threw the shaft on, plugs, wires, dipstick tube, and coil pack. No problem.
Now to the y-pipe. Now I have always been supportive of QTPs and their y-pipes, but this weekend was a reminder of what a PITA they are. Admittedly, were it not for the SLP SFCs it would not have been a problem, so you guys keep that in mind. I had to trim a bit on the driver' s side legs to clear the SFC and I still have a bit of adjustment I have to do once we get some replacement clamps in. Ground clearance is minimal at best, on stock suspension, so lowered guys look out. Otherwise trimmed a couple inches off the y-pipe and called it good.
Now, I offer just a couple things to think about, if you like:
1) The clamps that are included are not my bag, baby. The crush the pipes more than they seal them and hold them together. I don' t know if it' s because the joints are stretched too much, or what, but, I like Walker stainless steel lap-joint style clamps. They don' t crush the joints and pipes together, adding leaks, and they have this sticky crap that squeezes into the joint that help prevent leaks. They look just like the wide clamps one sees on bigrig exhaust.
2) Get the car up HIGH, safely. The headers have to go in close to completely perpendicular and if the car isn' t high enough, they aren' t going in. Use you jack and stands safely!!!
3) Do your plugs, wires, and maybe even mounts at the same time.
4) Test fit the LTs before bolting them down. I would have been pizzed off if we got the y-pipe on there before seeing the k-member clearnace.
5) Take your time. I know a lot of people take less time to install LTs, but, we didn' t break anything, stress out, or damage those jewels installing them. I had a good time in fact.
6) Test fit and lube up the lap-joints on the y-pipe. The more spinning and movement you have, the easier it is going to be adjusting it. If you have double-diamond-style SFCs, you' re going to need all the adjustment you can get.
7) Get a Mufflex clamp. In order to get the converter and left side pipe tucked up good, and keep from banging, you need to preload that hanger to keep it from bouncing into the floor.
Hopefully, this was a little help. Sorry so long, but I wanted to share and maybe a newbie may benifit.
Good luck!!!
