kooks headers
08-10-2006, 12:58 PM
#5
Kooks 1-7/8's are hell to install. I had to grind the **** out of the K-member for the passenger side, but it slid in without a hitch. For the driver side, I had to unbolt the driver motor mount pedestal completely, unbolt the passenger side almost completely, then jack the motor up untill the manifold hit the cowl.
Kooks y-pipes will ride higher than any on the market, they have a slightly crushed section that makes them fit awesome. Here's a pic of my 3" --> 4" ORY below.
The welds/bends/etc. are PERFECT though. I installed a set of 1-3/4" Kooks before and the driver side went in by just jacking up the motor a bit, didn't actually have to unbolt anything.
Kooks y-pipes will ride higher than any on the market, they have a slightly crushed section that makes them fit awesome. Here's a pic of my 3" --> 4" ORY below.
The welds/bends/etc. are PERFECT though. I installed a set of 1-3/4" Kooks before and the driver side went in by just jacking up the motor a bit, didn't actually have to unbolt anything.
08-10-2006, 01:02 PM
#6
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Just installed a set of 1-3/4" Kooks this past weekend with there catted Y-pipe and I was very impressed with the quality of them. The passenger side slid right in but I had to jack up the motor a bit to get the drivers side in.
08-10-2006, 01:44 PM
#7
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I didn't have to jack up the engine at all, removing the oil-filter did it for me.
They're nice headers, very high quality, really thick flanges, sound awesome, fit well, and make great power.
I would recommend a catted y though. ORY's sound like **** IMHO.
They're nice headers, very high quality, really thick flanges, sound awesome, fit well, and make great power.
I would recommend a catted y though. ORY's sound like **** IMHO.
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08-10-2006, 03:42 PM
#9
Originally Posted by Lithium
They are badass. Thats all you need to know. 
Here is my Kooks install thread -->
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/542503-kooks-lt-stainless-y-installed.html
Kooks headers are excellent. Now that I know that you have to jack up the drivers side of the motor a smidge, the install would have taken less time. Awesome headers and fitment of the catted Y. The clearence is superb. I can fit an ENTIRE pop can under my Y-pipe and it barely misses fitting under the cats. You get an ORY, it will fit everywhere. I highly recommend them.
08-10-2006, 06:25 PM
#10
Originally Posted by SweeTbone
Here is my Kooks install thread -->
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=542503
Kooks headers are excellent. Now that I know that you have to jack up the drivers side of the motor a smidge, the install would have taken less time. Awesome headers and fitment of the catted Y. The clearence is superb. I can fit an ENTIRE pop can under my Y-pipe and it barely misses fitting under the cats. You get an ORY, it will fit everywhere. I highly recommend them.
hey what did you gap the NGK's too???
08-10-2006, 06:27 PM
#11
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thanks for the input guys!! i'm going to bite the bullet and order the Kooks and ory. Seems like from what i've seen on the search this is a one time header ans sounds like it will outlive the car.
08-10-2006, 10:12 PM
#12
They are good headers.
A reminder though, as with just about any header/y-pipe, be ready to deal with pipes banging the bottom of the car. The remedy for which, is a pair of Prothane motor mounts. Another way to help prevent the banging is to install a Mufflex bump-stop hanger. (I use both on my Camaro.)
Also, know that he poly motor mounts will transfer a bit more engine vibration to the chassis and interior. If you go this route you'll want to install the mounts while the headers are off the car.
A reminder though, as with just about any header/y-pipe, be ready to deal with pipes banging the bottom of the car. The remedy for which, is a pair of Prothane motor mounts. Another way to help prevent the banging is to install a Mufflex bump-stop hanger. (I use both on my Camaro.)
Also, know that he poly motor mounts will transfer a bit more engine vibration to the chassis and interior. If you go this route you'll want to install the mounts while the headers are off the car.
08-10-2006, 11:48 PM
#14
Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
hey what did you gap the NGK's too???
Originally Posted by ShevrolayZ28
They are good headers.
A reminder though, as with just about any header/y-pipe, be ready to deal with pipes banging the bottom of the car. The remedy for which, is a pair of Prothane motor mounts. Another way to help prevent the banging is to install a Mufflex bump-stop hanger. (I use both on my Camaro.)
Also, know that he poly motor mounts will transfer a bit more engine vibration to the chassis and interior. If you go this route you'll want to install the mounts while the headers are off the car.
A reminder though, as with just about any header/y-pipe, be ready to deal with pipes banging the bottom of the car. The remedy for which, is a pair of Prothane motor mounts. Another way to help prevent the banging is to install a Mufflex bump-stop hanger. (I use both on my Camaro.)
Also, know that he poly motor mounts will transfer a bit more engine vibration to the chassis and interior. If you go this route you'll want to install the mounts while the headers are off the car.
Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
I like the way they bend their driver side section of the y-pipe so that it fits better. Kooks **** is the only stuff you don't need poly motor mounts on. 
Last edited by SweeTbone; 08-11-2006 at 12:00 AM. Reason: Spelling; Added quote
08-11-2006, 12:01 AM
#15
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I put my 1-7/8" Kooks on while the engine and K-member were dropped from the car - thank God. It looked like it would have been a pain.
My Y-pipe bangs a bit, and I'll have to do Poly motor mounts soon or I'm gonna go nuts.
On another note - the quality is second to none.
My Y-pipe bangs a bit, and I'll have to do Poly motor mounts soon or I'm gonna go nuts.
On another note - the quality is second to none.
08-11-2006, 12:14 AM
#16
I had to flatten out that second bend in the Y pipe on the driver side leg too. It was hitting the body, so I just gave it a few good whacks with the negotiator and it was riding perfect.
Also, the 4" section was hitting the tranny tunnel, so I took it apart, and cut some meat off that center slip fit so it would go on farther. My best guess is this 3" to 4" y isn't very common, considering I'd never seen one or new they made one untill I started looking.
Also, the 4" section was hitting the tranny tunnel, so I took it apart, and cut some meat off that center slip fit so it would go on farther. My best guess is this 3" to 4" y isn't very common, considering I'd never seen one or new they made one untill I started looking.
