V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

I did a "pulley" search & read 5 pages here & didn't find an answer.

I'm trying to find the part # (or better yet someone w/ a used one) for the LS1 power steering pulley w/ the holes in it (stock car/truck appear to all be a solid design, but in my LS1/LS6 book they show a couple of pictures of these w/ holes in the front) so you can remove the pump w/o pulling the pulley. My LT1 had this design but the pulley is smooth, and I need one with ribs for the sepentine.

I'm on a tight budget & would like to avoid the $80-90 for an aftermarket pulley.

Thanks for any help.

DanZ28

iTrader: (5)

If your getting it soley so you can pull the pump without pulling the pulley, well, you don't have to pull the pulley on an LS1. All you need is an open end wrench to get to that one hard to get bolt. You just unscrew it and pull out on the pump at the same time untill it's out .

Dan

The PAT WS6

iTrader: (14)

try a sponser texas-speed.com or byunspeed.com

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

This is good to know, because it sure looked like it would be tight when I put the solid pulley in place w/o pressing it on, which would of course move it further back. I know on my truck pump this couldn't be done. I have to wonder who the genius was that changed a perfectly operable design for one that is a pain in the butt.

Texas Speed has no listings for this.

Byunspeed has one for $100.

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

Looked on GM Parts Direct & the '97 Corvette pulley apparently has the holes & is list priced at $17.01. Part # 12559890. I will give this one a shot.

DanZ28

iTrader: (5)

Good deal if it makes it easier. I have removed the PS pump a few times now with the solid one on there though, no real issue. I am removing it for good this weekend .

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

It should, this is yet another example of how the people that design this stuff never have to work on it. I love the room I have to work on the LT1 in my 280Z & wish I had half as much room in the 4th gen TA (a car that was designed for the motor). The LM7 won't be stuck under the cowl of the Supra either .

Local dealer "list" was $2 higher than GM Parts Direct "list", still cheaper than paying freight for 1 piece.

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

GM part # 12559890 is the same solid pulley I already had. It must be a service replacement or something, as the illustration for the '97 Vette showed one w/ holes.

Back to square one. At least I got my $ back.

DanZ28

iTrader: (5)

It probably superceeded the 97'. Forget the holes and use the solid one, it's cake I tell ya .

Synister_Motorsports

iTrader: (2)

you are correct it did superced the 97.

RFERG43

When I bought my new pulley I drilled a 3/4 inch hole in it with a wood bit. Don't use a twist drill, it might bind and crack it.

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

Great minds think alike ... I used my LT1 pulley (fit right inside LS1 pulley) as a template and ran three 1.125" holes with a holesaw. So far, so good.

I'm sure it is, but it is a stupid design, and I like to eliminate this factor when possible. Just one more thing on the "list" to engineer:

• Motor mounts
• Wiring
• Exhaust
• AC lines
• Radiator
• Transmission
• Shifter
• TKO 6-tooth speedo gear (finding one almost as hard as everything else put together)
• Clutch
• Release bearing
• Pilot bearing
• Trans mount
• Driveshaft
• Differential flange
• And so on, and so on...

The PAT WS6

iTrader: (14)

im not sure ur going to find one for that cheap honestly

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

At this $tage of the project, free beats $ everytime .

Cost of a drill: Free (have one)
Cost of holesaw: Free (have one)
Cost of electricity to run drill: $.05 or so
Engineering a part properly so this will not be needed: Priceless

DanZ28

iTrader: (5)

Glad it worked out for you and the free mod can't be beat .

I'm curious though, what do you do about the bolt on the back side of the pump? drilling a hole won't help that bolt and it's harder to get out then the one you drilled a hole for. I know how I get it out, but wondered what you do about this harder bolt?

Dan

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

If I remember this setup correctly (been doing trans work this week), there are 3x 8mm bolts that hold the pump in place- 1 long bolt on each side and 1 short one at the front that bolts to a bracket that sticks out. AFAIK, the long bolts will slide through the pulley openings & the short one will also. I know there is some bracketry involved as well. It seems like this pump is very similar to the one that was on my LT1 motor, and it was held in place with the two side bolts.

With the pump removed, this allows access to the rear bolts that go into the driver side head.

I'll have to look at this later today & let you know.

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

I pulled the pump today & am not sure by what is meant by the bolt at the back side of the pump. My F-body pump to rear bracket has two long 8mm bolts, one on either side, and an 8mm shorter bolt below the long bolt on the driver side (not accessible through the holes). A front bracket ties these three bolts together. I was able to pull the long bolts through the pulley holes and then use a wrench to loosen the shorter bolt. I could then swing the pump & front bracket to remove the shorter bolt. I can see how you could get at two of these with open end wrenches w/o the holes, but the one on the passenger side would be tough. The holes make it a lot easier.

Perhaps you are referring to the rear bracket bolts? I have this fastened down to the head with 10mm bolts & don't have to mess with it to remove the pump.

I started out with a truck motor & accessories and had to convert to F-body accessories. I'm putting this stuff together piecemeal so often I have no idea how things were originally configured, or what type of hardware was used to fasten it. Bolt Depot is my friend .

DanZ28

iTrader: (5)

I guess every time I pulled my pump, I leave it on the bracket and just pull the bracket out. I can get two of the bolts out easily, and the one on back of the pump I use an open end wrench to get that one out. I just pulled it out the other day, was pretty easy really.