CaMaRo67RS355

iTrader: (75)

this is my friends account im just using it to post this thread im not yet a member. what are the best power adding bolt ons to get i mean ive heard headers, no cats, catback, cold air, m.a.s, pulleys, programming & etc add power but i mean let me know what helps and what is b/s.

the velocity stacks are they b/s?

need opinions ASAP

TransAmDrag98

headers+no cats+cut out =good start

BLK02TA

iTrader: (11)

Ported Throttle body.

TransAm8723

I started with the intake first, then exhaust, then suspension. The best bang for the buck would be hands down the air lid and longtube headers combined with a good catback. The shorty headers are an improvement, but will not get the same gains as longtubes. this is not worth it when in most cases the long tubes are only 100 bucks more, some even coated. Most guys agree that the stock MAF is good for like 500hp or something. Making LS1 power is no problem, but getting it to the ground is another thing, so definitely look into some suspension pieces (sub-frame connectors, lower control arms, panhard bar, etc) and some drag radial tires. another worthwhile bolt-on for earlier fbodies is an aftermarket or stock LS6 intake manifold. hope this helps.

Jeremy

CaMaRo67RS355

iTrader: (75)

what else guys name every single bolt on wise thing i can do to improve my cars performance ability? does anyone know about the "velocity stacks" that fit in to the throttle body?

slowscott

iTrader: (8)

No one knows about it cause it sucks. You could search for this all really easily although sometimes search is down so I'll make you a list.

Lid
pp your own tb
headers
cutout
done

WS6 Rampage

iTrader: (3)

Yea,...AVOID EM!! Just port and polish it yourself!

Heres mine!

CaMaRo67RS355

iTrader: (75)

how hard is it to do your own porting on ur tb? what all do i need? how do i know when to stop?

98camaroLS1M6

iTrader: (35)

go to ls1howto.com

EvoWake

iTrader: (8)

use search, all of these questions have previous posts.

However, since i'm here already, think logically in order as others have said. the engine is a big breathing machine... you want it to breathe well: Lid, CAI, Smooth Bellows, P/P TB, LS6 IM if you have a 98-00. exhaust, cat back or cutout (best value IMO) headers ory, test pipes to delete cats if you want to keep stock manifolds. You'll also want to stiffen up the chassis if you're going to be tinkering... Subframe connectors are an excellent investment, especially if you have a T-Top car, unless of course you want torque wrinkles in your rear quarter panels... you know if you want that cool *abercrombie used and abused * look what a joke If your car has a lot of miles youd be best off to start with simple maintnence first... new filters, new oil, new plugs, run some seafoam through etc, make it feel new again! Just my .02

beaSSt

As mentioned in one reply above, don't forget about bolt-ons for traction.

Sticky tires, LCAs on relo brackets, adj. TA, etc.

If you're spinning you're not winning!

JohnnyC

Exhaust: long tube headers, ORY and a catback, or true duels if you prefer (both will make power, duels always will flow better than catback). The Flowmaster catback sounds nice to some, but is not known to be a good performer. Cutouts are nice additions for raw power and sound.

Air: get a lid(any) and port the throttle body. K&N filters are nice because they last and last, but really don't offer any great power advantages. Aftermarket throttle bodies only become useful if you are making BIG power, so they are usually not a good beginning mod. Also get the LS6 intake if you have a pre-2001 car, as they flow better than previous years. Things like the smooth bellows mod and the TB bypass will make your sig bigger, but really don't offer any real power gains.

More advanced mods like heads, cams, turbos, NOS, and blowers will make even more power, and the selection of these mods are discussed in great detail in other threads. All have been proven to make power.

Of course, there are other areas you can spend your money(like suspension, wheels, tires, drivetrain, interior), but I assume you are interested in the power-making mods since you posted this in the External Engine area.

This is a good, basic start, and there are many in-depth discussions on all of this if you search the forums (see JRP's mod guide sticky). Good luck!

300bhp/ton

Well here's the dilema. Every single bolt on is expensive and not all that affective. There's a limit to how much power you can make before the engine internals become the restriction.

In most cases you are better off doing a few bolt ons and a cam. A cam really is no more difficult to install and is often cheaper than a lot of the other bolt on mods.

There's link in my sig for a mod guide. I think it'll help you out.

However depending on what car you have (tranny, and year) the bolt on's vary somewhat. Also money and goals with the car. You can spend a lot of money on a bolt on for 8rwhp only to find you have to remove it later on because its not compatiable with your long term aims.

Essentially do, intake (lid, new OEM filter, ported TB and Ls6 intake or FAST 90/90), exhaust Lt's (not CA), mid pipe and catback.

High flow cats shouldn't cost you any HP on most setups. Either that or you can go for an "off road" setup.

You really then want to look at a cam or h/c setup.

Nearly all the free mods are pointless, and there are many bolt on mods which fall into the same category. MAF, bellows, cutout (setup dependant), k&n filter to name a few.

If you are unsure, go and research what the mod is claiming to do and research the physics behind it. You will be amazed at how much ***** there is out there.

Lastly don't forget supporting mods such as gears, stalls (auto only), brakes, chassis. They will all help make the car better and in a lot of cases faster but they don't generate any HP at all.

Starz T/A 17

iTrader: (6)

EVERY bolt on for our LS1 cars are worth it IMO, I cant think of anything as far as "bolt on" that isnt worth the money, go to the stickys at the top and just start pickin crap to buy until you have it all

300bhp/ton

Can't you? How odd, as there are some truly ***** ones. Smooth bellows has to be the most pointless of them all, plus it's not even smooth but a humped 3x3" bit of regular silicon hose.

MAF's - all pointless unless you are pushing some super FI setup. stock MAFS are fine, aftermarket ones only make power on stock vehciles because they feed the ECU inaccurate info forcing it to alter the fuel mixture. The exact same result can be achieved via tuning with a stock MAF.

And it goes on from there. If you plan on a Procharger you can't run pulleys. Or with a front mount turbo system LT's are redundant.

Dr's and 4.10 gears in a M6 will probably mean a blown rear. FAST 90 or carb style intake on a car that doesn't rev past 5500rpm and makes no use of the extra breathing abilities.

NHRAMAN

iTrader: (1)

...................

CaMaRo67RS355

iTrader: (75)

great guys keep'm coming its a 02 SS but it is bone stock

CaMaRo67RS355

iTrader: (75)

and its a M6

Flaminchiten67

https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-owners-newbie-tech/361959-so-you-wanna-fast.html

bjamick

iTrader: (31)

pretty much everything has been said that is really easy, and makes good power, with what has been said if you did it all you would have an high 11 sec car or low 12's all motor with a 100 shot id say maybe close to a 10 sec.
LT header=$500
your car came with an ls6 intake.....
port and polish your TB=FREE
SLP air lid=$90
K&N air filter=$60
true dual exaust with whatever mufflers=$500
suspension=$300
drag radials=$300
NOS=$500
there ya go a run down of very good cheap bolt ons.
$2250 for a low-mid 11 sec car i think thats pretty good. and you can still drive it where ever you want to.