QTP banging on K member.... Please come in...
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QTP banging on K member.... Please come in...
I would like to know how much I can safely grind off of the K member. Its the Passenger side header and its basically resting on it. I get ALOT of rattling when I give it gas and its just killing me at this point.
ALSO, One of the header bolts is ready hard to get in, And I think I am going to have to get a tap and die set and work on it. Now, I got ARP header studs waiting to be put in, And my question or big concern is, Would they fit after I fix the header hole on the block ??? Or is the hole going to be bigger ???
Thanks for any help.
I can take pictures if anyone wants to see my clearance
ALSO, One of the header bolts is ready hard to get in, And I think I am going to have to get a tap and die set and work on it. Now, I got ARP header studs waiting to be put in, And my question or big concern is, Would they fit after I fix the header hole on the block ??? Or is the hole going to be bigger ???
Thanks for any help.
I can take pictures if anyone wants to see my clearance
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I had to grind off some of the passenger side too. I did 1/4 or so. It has been ok and ive been hard on it. Under torque the motor moves away from it anyway, but you don't want rattle or false knock. Try just cleaning the threads with the stock size tap first, and see if that works out. If not just get the next size tap, and go to Ace hardware and get a stainless replacement, sucks that it won't be a match but, you can't change it now.
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Sometimes true. However, I installed a pair with new Poly motor mounts at the same time. It is QTP's (occasional) flaw in design. I had a mechanic heat up and bend the header. You can also notch the K-member.
Originally Posted by Tim @ EAD Performance
How many miles are on your car? Usually if the headers are touching the k-member, its a sign of worn out engine mounts. Investing in a set of poly mounts should definately fix the issue.
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I put my QTPs and all my stuff on when my car was new "only a few hundred miles" and my headers hit so hard they could not be tightened up completely as they were too tensioned against the K member. My QTPs had alot of issues, that was a small one. I had an early set and they were not what they are now. Of all the stuff I bought, they are the only thing I wish I would have not bought.
Last edited by BOONE; 10-06-2006 at 08:45 AM.
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Originally Posted by Tim @ EAD Performance
How many miles are on your car? Usually if the headers are touching the k-member, its a sign of worn out engine mounts. Investing in a set of poly mounts should definately fix the issue.
I have 56K miles on my car
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Originally Posted by peterock98
I would call Barry or Ken,they will help you out...
Who are they ???
I bought my headers a couple of months ago but I just got to the point where I cant take it.... 750 dollar headers and they dont fit like a glove
#11
If you have a header bolt in wrong, you might not have the header on right causing it to rub on the k memeber. I know because mine if i didnt push up the header it would be close to the k member. I would also invest in poly mounts.
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My QTPs did the EXACT same thing . I had to grind the k-member then dent the header, almost threw up hitting a $350 header with a BFH . All QTP said was I got a defective batch and they would send me a new one if I sent them back the set I had. I wasn't about to wait another month or two to get a new set.
Also if you are having a header bolt that does not want to go in you have probably started to cross thread it. After cleaning out the holes and a bit of anti-seze you should be able to finger thread the bolt all the way in. Well almost all the way.
I started to cross thread one, it was far to hard to get in, and you could see that the head of the bolt wasn't parallel to the head. So my friend's dad, backed the bolt out, then with a screwdriver felt in there where the two paths were, one of which I created . Then he started to thread the bolt back in and pulled up on it at the same time to get it to go on the correct path again.
But after all is said and done, they are in now, and don't even touch the k-member. Let me know if you want, and i'll post of some pictures of our grinding and denting.
Alex
Also if you are having a header bolt that does not want to go in you have probably started to cross thread it. After cleaning out the holes and a bit of anti-seze you should be able to finger thread the bolt all the way in. Well almost all the way.
I started to cross thread one, it was far to hard to get in, and you could see that the head of the bolt wasn't parallel to the head. So my friend's dad, backed the bolt out, then with a screwdriver felt in there where the two paths were, one of which I created . Then he started to thread the bolt back in and pulled up on it at the same time to get it to go on the correct path again.
But after all is said and done, they are in now, and don't even touch the k-member. Let me know if you want, and i'll post of some pictures of our grinding and denting.
Alex
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Originally Posted by LS1Lust
My QTPs did the EXACT same thing . I had to grind the k-member then dent the header, almost threw up hitting a $350 header with a BFH . All QTP said was I got a defective batch and they would send me a new one if I sent them back the set I had. I wasn't about to wait another month or two to get a new set.
Also if you are having a header bolt that does not want to go in you have probably started to cross thread it. After cleaning out the holes and a bit of anti-seze you should be able to finger thread the bolt all the way in. Well almost all the way.
I started to cross thread one, it was far to hard to get in, and you could see that the head of the bolt wasn't parallel to the head. So my friend's dad, backed the bolt out, then with a screwdriver felt in there where the two paths were, one of which I created . Then he started to thread the bolt back in and pulled up on it at the same time to get it to go on the correct path again.
But after all is said and done, they are in now, and don't even touch the k-member. Let me know if you want, and i'll post of some pictures of our grinding and denting.
Alex
Also if you are having a header bolt that does not want to go in you have probably started to cross thread it. After cleaning out the holes and a bit of anti-seze you should be able to finger thread the bolt all the way in. Well almost all the way.
I started to cross thread one, it was far to hard to get in, and you could see that the head of the bolt wasn't parallel to the head. So my friend's dad, backed the bolt out, then with a screwdriver felt in there where the two paths were, one of which I created . Then he started to thread the bolt back in and pulled up on it at the same time to get it to go on the correct path again.
But after all is said and done, they are in now, and don't even touch the k-member. Let me know if you want, and i'll post of some pictures of our grinding and denting.
Alex
Do you know who you talked to ???
I would like to send mine back and get a new one.
How long did you have your headers before you decided to send them back ???
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this is normal for qtp's they either are extremely close to the kmember on the pass side or they are resting on it, some people dented in the header and have good clearance that way and it doesn't really affect performance, others like myself have grinded down the kmember for clearance.
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Originally Posted by LS1Lust
Sorry for some confusion. I talked to the QTP guy on this board and I still have not sent mine back. They are still on my car and doing great.
Do you remember who you talked to ???
My driver side header its totally crap. I would love to have that one replaced or both if they can.