dan98z

Just installing my FLP's and one of the middle bolts on the header, got very tight and snapped off. All the others went on fine..Would it be ok to start the car once the headers are on with one bolt broken off? I will need to take it to the shop and get that bolt hole tapped out. Sad day...really sucks <img src="images/icons/frown.gif" border="0">
-dan98z

dan98z

Ouch...two bolts would suck. Maybe I will try and start it with the one bolt broken.. How much do you think it would cost to be tapped? Someone quoted me 150-200..for 2 hours work..think that is in the ballpark? I just feel bad cause the car has been perfect ever since I got it and then this happened <img src="images/icons/mad.gif" border="0">
-dan

wizkid

iTrader: (3)

What kind of bolts are you guys using????

It looks like both of you have FLP headers. Maybe they have cheap bolts??

Grade 8 bolts should not break.

ERic

dan98z

These are stage 8 locking header bolts from tbyrne. This bolt was pretty odd..went in like butter then all the sudden got extremely hard, kept turning and it snapped. right off. Wasnt even touching the header itself yet, still about 1/16th inch of thread above the header. I dont want to blame the bolts but I doubt it was how i was turning the wrench..All the others went in like cake.. Who knows, just want my car running again.
-dan

01 SS Jay

Sounds like it bottomed out? Anyone know if the holes are tapped to different depths on the heads?

2QuikTA

how is the installation of the flp's? easy/any problems? how long did it take ya?

Scott

dan98z

The stage 8 bolts were a different length than the stock bolts. I believe they were shorter but barely.

2Quick, they went on pretty good, stock stuff was a bitch to get off. Had to remove the bottom heat shielding on passenger side to get the headers to fit in. Other than the broke header bolt <img src="images/icons/mad.gif" border="0"> they went in fine. I just hope the shop can take this out and get the job done.

-dan

2QuikTA

i'm prob. gonna pick myself up some of the flp LT's next spring.....seeing that flp is like 2 min. from my house

DriveATransAm

did you use an antiseiz lubricant?

sounds realy odd that it would just snap off like that if it was already halfway threaded in. might be a bolt- try emailing the company and see what they say.

Sears

What are the torque specs for the stage 8 header bolts?

SteveD

Guys,

I have installed 2 sets of FPL's and used the stock bolts. We did have to shorten the tip that they have on them. We have never seen One become loose yet. Something is not right if you snapped a grade8 bolt. Good luck.

Steve <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[Burnout]" />

gwj

Actually you would be more likely to snap a Grade 8 bolt than a mild steel bolt. The 8s are HARDER but the hardening process leaves them somewhat brittle. A lower grade bolt would be more likely to twist before it breaks.
Maybe you guys should invest in some taps? Getting exhaust bolts out can be a pain, I know.
Good luck.

01 SS Jay

Even if the stock bolts are longer than the stage 8's, im sure the flange on the manifold is a lot thicker than the flange on the headers. It bottomed out.

Ebbsnflows

iTrader: (15)

[quote]Originally posted by dan98z:
<strong>....How much do you think it would cost to be tapped? Someone quoted me 150-200..for 2 hours work..think that is in the ballpark? I just feel bad cause the car has been perfect ever since I got it and then this happened <img src="images/icons/mad.gif" border="0">
-dan</strong><hr></blockquote>

Unfortunately due to the location of the last bolt (Firewall bolt), it was impossible to do anything w/ the Head still attached. So...with only 5K miles on my car, I had to take the head off and have it machined. (Keep in mind, Up until the header install, oil changes were the only thing I had ever done!) So here I am, with ZERO mechanical background yanking the head off of a practically brand new car! With the help of LS1.com (and Helms Manuals) I removed it, (had it machined ($30.00...for both bolts), and re-installed it. Amazingly enuff....it fired up on the first try. <img src="images/icons/grin.gif" border="0"> <img src="images/icons/grin.gif" border="0">

If you're paying $200, I'm guessing that they'll do the work with the head STILL ON THE BLOCK??? Correct? Otherwise...you're getting bent over.

Wizkid-
These were the stock bolts. I know why mine broke. My buddy got the bright idea to use LocTite on them....Ummm, BAD IDEA! That **** seized like concrete. I actually broke one of them off while trying to back the bolt BACK OUT. For 2 months I had nightmares about Loctite! <img src="images/icons/grin.gif" border="0"> <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

As a side note:

These are STAGE 8, and not GRADE 8.

Stage 8 is a brand, and they are NOT grade 8 bolts. Stage 8 have locks and E-clips to keep them from backing out.

I do not know what grade they are, my 'guess' would be a grade 5.

I used the stock exhaust bolts on my Grots. No problems. I've got Stage 8's on my '94Z. No problems there either. <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

-Andrew

dan98z

Anyone know if its possible to tap the head while it is on the car? There is a pretty fair amout of clearance between it with the coil packs off. Supposedly someone at the shop is pretty good at removing and retapping broken bolts in blocks/heads so im hoping he knows what hes doing and has some magic tools.

Ebbsnflows

iTrader: (15)

[quote]Originally posted by dan98z:
<strong>Anyone know if its possible to tap the head while it is on the car? </strong><hr></blockquote>

I'm sure that it's possible...but keep one thing in mind...

These heads are Aluminum...the bolts are steel. It will require a high strength Carbide bit to drill into the hardened bolt. IF (big IF), they aren't 100% straight (perpindicular to the head) when they tap into the bolt, the drill could possibly come out the side of the bolt and shoot straight into the soft aluminum. A carbide bit will cut aluminum like butter. I initially attempted to use a Right-angle drill to drill mine out, but I wasn't able to get it to go in exactly straight. So I stopped. When I took it to the machine shop they told me that it was a good thing I did, as I was just about to puncture in the head.

But if the guy is as good as you say, he will know this already and will be able to do whatever is necessary. Good luck!

dan98z

Thanks for the help Ebbsnflows and everyone else. I think its going in to the shop on monday and he seemed pretty confident that it will be done that day too. Im just going to have him take off the header tap/helicoil it then reinstall the header and dipstick tube and air/egr connections. Rather get this done quick since this is my daily driver. Really hope these headers are worth the effort put in so far. Thanks again!
-dan

kick_*ss

iTrader: (1)

Its sounds just like when LunaticTA and I were putting on shorties.
This was the very last bolt, it would go half way in and stop.
We pulled every bolt off and thought maybe that we snapped one off removing the manifolds.
We after checking everything, they were all fine, LunaticTA has a tap and die set and ran one through the threads and low and behold that one was not threaded correctly from the factory.
When he pulled out the tap it had some lock tight and metal shavings.

We then went through putting the side back on and all went on perfect.
We were told that at the factory they sometimes just force the bolts on whether they fit or not.

Your bolt was most likely fine, the hole was just not threaded correctly.

JoshW

Anytime you put steel fasteners into aluminum, you should use some form of anti seize compound (nickel never seize). The same goes for spark plugs. Of course, running a tap into the header bolt holes prior to installation is probably a good idea , too.

[ December 02, 2001: Message edited by: JoshW ]</p>