HumanNipple

iTrader: (2)

I am installing Pacesetter LT's with an ORY on a 00 SS Auto and i'm not able to detach the steering column. I removed both bolts along the column and was unable to remove the column, how do I remove it? The driver side will not go in without the column removed as far as I can tell . I am also having trouble removing the dipstick so the damn stock Mani is still in there What should I do?

ErikElvis

iTrader: (1)

get that car higher in the air. mine wouldnt go in when the car was just a lil high. Had to go really high and I didnt have to disconnect anything. Had a 3ton lift with lift height of 20" plus there was a 4x4 between the k member and the jack. My dipstick came out by itself. But you could go under and pull it out with needle nose pliers

HumanNipple

iTrader: (2)

The car is about 3 ft up, the main problem right now is the steering column won't detach. The steering column is in the way of the new header, and I can't shove the header in as far as I can tell.

01FormulaTA

iTrader: (20)

you should not have to detach the steering column? I put pacesetter lt's and pacesetter ory on my 2001 A4 formula about 5 months ago and all I had to do was take off the old manifolds and y and put on the new stuff.....plus a little grinding on the assembly tab on the block on the driver side w/ the dremel and they slid right in with a lil muscle.....try to get the car higher in the air and also make sure you're not hitting the tab which is what was holding me up. Hope this helps
-Chris

ErikElvis

iTrader: (1)

dont exhaust the option of fiddlin around with it. Mine kinda went in strait up. try taking it pastwhere the header should be and bring it down back into place

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

You need to remove both bolts (one by the U-joint, one by the rack), then tap the bottom off of the steering rack. It's splined and will pop off if you tap it up (toward the hood/driver side of car). I've never heard of anyone removing the steering shaft with

As for the dipstick tube, be very careful. Mine was a BITCH to get out, ended up breaking off in the block and took forever to get it out. Try and make it spin in the hole, but whatever you do, DON'T bend it backand forth. The tube has a groove for the O-ring and it's prone to breaking.

There's a tiny lip on the tube, just as it's about to go into the hole in the block. You may be able to get something under it and pry it loose.

HumanNipple

iTrader: (2)

Keep'em coming, we're trying out your suggestions now!

ErikElvis

iTrader: (1)

With the dipstick tube is it possible to put it back in to far? My stick reads completely full after reinstall when it wasnt before

HumanNipple

iTrader: (2)

Forgot to mention, we aren't going the way of unbolting the engine mounts due to lack of equipment

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

You could heat the block around the dipstick tube with a mapp gas torch or something, should help it come out. The dipstick has paint on it which causes it to get stuck in the block hole. You can remove the starter to gain better access to the dipstick tube, but make sure you remove the (-) terminal from the battery. If not, it's going to look like the 4th of July......... ask me how I know.....

The dipstick tube won't go back in too far, it's got a stop to keep it at the right level. Maybe the oil ran down into the oil pan after time and caused a bit of a higher reading.

yak

iTrader: (15)

dude, did you take out the bolt that hold the dipstick onto the head? spin it a little and pull straight up. Also, the seering colum does not need to come out. you just need to gring the assembly tab on the block a little or remove the heat shields. mine slid right in.

HumanNipple

iTrader: (2)

We struck gold and got both the driver side header in with a lil luck and force plus we got the dipstick out with some love. Passenger side lower EGR valve or whatever it is...the lower one is giving us some trouble coming off, it almost appears to be welded..but I may go in for a closer look. Man this is the slowest and most painful process in the world

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

Just be glad the tubedidn't break off. Took me 5 days to get it out.

HumanNipple

iTrader: (2)

How do you get the stock EGR fitting on the driver side to attach to the new pacesetter long tube EGR fitting?????? ******* steel of the EGR doesn't bend at all

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

Might have to bend the tube on the header. You sure they sent the correct year model headers?

HumanNipple

iTrader: (2)

yeah im pretty sure the year is the correct year for the headers. We are still having trouble fitting the egr with the header on the driver's side. The egr is steel(?) and unbendable and the rubber at the beginning isnt long enough. I think we might have to go buy some tubing to extend the egr tubing?

FU_I_AM_UltraZ

iTrader: (20)

i didn't have to detached anything but my old system when i installed my supermaxx system

silverbandit0996

iTrader: (2)

my l/t's just slid in after i took a ballpeen hammer and dented a little spot (about quarter-size) on the firewall.

HumanNipple

iTrader: (2)

We finally finished the install, it took about 36 hours of work, not continuous work but you get the idea. Started it up and waited for her to idle back up after sitting around for sooooo long, sounds great with the Pacesetter LTs, ORY and LM1. I haven't gotten any check engine lights yet but I did notice a drop in idle at some points in driving plus when I turned on the heat at one point the idle dropped to almost 300. I dunno what happened with the idle but i'm going to run it again tommorow in sensible weather aka not 15 degrees. Any suggestions on idle with the fresh set up?


Just as soon as I was coming into my driveway at 330am someone called the cops on me after only 15 mins of checking it out, lol I had 3 cop cars at my house