connexion2005

iTrader: (49)

I'm gonna get a headstart on my lt's/ory and motor mount install tonite. My goals are to have the stock headers, y pipe and motor mounts off and just be able to install the motor mounts and lt's/ory on thursday/friday/saturday or however long it will take. My question is:

Can I remove the motor mounts and feel confident in just setting the motor on the k-member just laying on it? Will this be risky? The car will not move and I just don't want to put 500 pounds of stress on my floor jack because the pressure will eventually leak down...

Any comments?

TIA

Josh

Brads LS1 02Z

iTrader: (16)

think i would probably use jack stands

connexion2005

iTrader: (49)

ok cool...any other input...btw thanks man

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

If your floor jack leaks down, you need a new floor jack, it's not safe. I had one that leaked, and eventually got to the point where you couldn't turn the handle without channel locks. You WILL be buying one eventually, just..... DO IT NOW!! :/Arnold voice:

I would jack up the motor under the oil pan/bellhousing area with a phone book between the two. Phone book will distribute the load and be a little softer on your parts.

Da Swami

iTrader: (6)

If you're doing it the "remove the alternator/AC compressor then the 18mm through bolt" way then what you could do is get that bolt out, then re-bolt it back up but this time with the bolt head facing the firewall so you can easily get it out when you go back.

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

I think it's easier to remove the pedestal/k-member bolts than to remove the alternator/compressor. Loosen the big bolt before you do it, in case you can't get the pedestal/motor mount assembly out thru the hole.

Unbolting the whole thing should give you enough room to get the big bolt out by sliding it around in there instead of removing accessories.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

If you have the headers out already this is simple. Just drop the alternator and AC compressor. Use a new unleaky jack with the phonebook under the bellhousing and then pull out one sides long motor mount bolt and replce the entire mount, then mount the header while you lift that side of the engine up about 2 inches, this will give you the extra room needed to make installing the header really easy. Then put the long bolt back in and go ahead and do the other side just like that one. After both big bolts are back in place go ahead and mount the ac compressor and alternator again.

WS6 Rampage

iTrader: (3)

lol,..good thing I read this cuz I'm do'n this also on sunday!

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

There is a motor mount write up in the sticky here. As matter of fact there are 2 of them.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/508688-mounts-transmission-motor.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/492703-best-poly-motor-mount-write-up-ever-written.html

cobrakiller221

iTrader: (12)

Are the poly mounts supposed to come with new bolts? I just got some energy suspension ones from texas speed and they didn't come with any..

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

No it does not come with new replacement bolts. It comes with the bolts you need to clamp the shell together after you break the rivets.

cobrakiller221

iTrader: (12)

I will check again, but I think that each mount just came with 2 tie-wraps.

cobrakiller221

iTrader: (12)

Could I just rivet it back together?

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

yeah if you get new rivets and have a rivet gun. I would just use bolts, much easier.

cobrakiller221

iTrader: (12)

I already have rivets and a rivet gun. Thanks mabye I'll just do that.

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

The prothane motor mounts (like Thunder sells) DO come with new bolts for putting the clamshells back together BTW.

connexion2005

iTrader: (49)

Ok I just pulled my alternator and my mounts will be here this afternoon. I haven't really messed with the a/c compressor just yet as I have decided to invest in a set of ratcheting metric wrenches before I go any further. Alls I have to do is unbolt the compressor and swing it out to where it hangs on the sway bar correct? Also...the alternator wasn't the easiest thing to move out of the way because of the power steering lines that run right next to it...can I move these or should I just deal with it?

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

Yes, the a/c compressor comes off with 4 bolts and swings forward. I wouldn't jack with the steering lines.

Did you unclip the exciter wire from the alternator? It's a tiny red wire in a weatherpack connector that is easy to miss, and rips out if you try to remove the alternator without disconnecting the plug.

connexion2005

iTrader: (49)

I removed the 13mm bolt holding the power to it and then some other connector that clipped on the back...Jesus did I miss the stupid exciter wire!!! Damn it?

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

Sounds like you're in the clear. "The connector clipped on the back" should be the exciter wire.

I didn't see it when I removed mine, and it ripped out. I had to do surgery on the plug and rig it to work again. I've seen several people do the same, and always try to warn about it. The alternator won't charge if the exciter wire isn't connected.