2001 Z06 Corvette Won't Start HELP!!!!!!!!
04-08-2007, 05:21 PM
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2001 Z06 Corvette Won't Start HELP!!!!!!!! Hey guys just need some info on what could be going on with my car????
I have a 2001 Z06 corvette with 35,000 miles on it. I just did performance mods to the car over the winter. I put ETP 215 cylinder heads with upgraded springs, big camshaft Gross valve lift intake .630 exhaust .630, Fast 90mm Intake manifold, Nick Williams 90mm T-body, Texas Speed Long tube headers with straight pipes to replace the cats, SLP loud mouth exhaust no mufflers, Halltech Stinger Cold air intake, SLP under drive pulley, Push-rods, SLP oil pump, 42 Fuel injectors, Double Roller timing chain, Ram Clutch, Ram Flywheel, Upgraded master cylinder, Upgraded slave, Went with different size tires in front 275/35/18's Rear 315/30/18's.
I did all the work in my garage besides the clutch work which was done at a performance shop about 4 months ago. The car ran fine after that work was done.
So, after all the work was completed I started up the car with my Stock fuel injectors from the factory. The car started right up with out the PCM retune which would be re-tuned at a later date.
The car ran rough when first started and it would run in reduced power when it was cold. When the car got up to temp the car ran mint. So after putting it all together I set up my Appt for a dyno tune. While waiting for the tow truck to get to my house, we pulled it out of the garage and heard a ticking sound coming from underneath the valve cover on the driver side. We didn't think much of it because it went away as soon as the car warmed up. We thought it could have been an exhaust leak or possibly the springs.
Finally, we got it up to the dyno shop. The car was parked for a baseline tune, drove it around for a little bit, and had trouble with the car because it kept going into a reduced power mode. So after screwing around with the car, we finally got it to run right.
The performance shop was using a HP tuner Software. They pulled it up on the dyno, put it in 4th gear and hit it. I walked over to the dyno graph and noticed it only made 405 Rear wheel horse and 405 Rear wheel torque. “Hmmmm something doesn’t seem right,” the tech said. So he gave it another try ran it up too 7000 RPMS once again same number 405/405 “hmmmm what is going on?”
After talking with the tech, he said the car should be making at the very least 440+. Looking at the dyno graph, the car would start to lose horse power after 5500 RPMS and he said it should be building a lot more power from 5500 RPMS and up not losing power.
So after everyone got a puzzled look on there face he talked to one of the tech’s about the ticking sound. After pulling off the driver side valve cover the rocker arms were loose and they ased if we preloaded the valve. I then answered no. They Responded back that that’s probably why you are losing power after 5500 RPMS because the valves aren't opening all the way.
Then my answer back was what do I need to do to fix this??? He then said you need to grind off the rocker pedestal so they could preload the lifters. I said well is that something you guys could do for me. The tech said sure. So I left the car at the performance shop so they could grind off both rocker pedestal's so the valves would open all the way and they also gave me new rocker arms.
After 4 days I was excited too go run the car on the dyno again and see the improvement it has made. I got a phone call from the performance shop asking me questions about the intake manifold. They asked if I replaced the 10 factory valley cover bolts underneath the intake manifold. I said no. His response back was “well do you have the 10 valley cover bolts the intake manifold came with.” “Yes I do.” He said he needed the valley cover bolts so they could tune my car. The intake manifold was sitting up to high so it caused a bad vacuum leak and was hoping I didn't crack the bottom of the intake manifold. I got to the shop ASAP gave the tech the 10 valley cover bolts took the intake manifold off and it was cracked underneath.
The tech said that the reason why your car has such a high idle and could also be a good possibility why its losing power. The good thing is that the intake manifold comes in 3 pieces so they ordered the bottom of the intake manifold.
The ticking sound was gone which was a good thing. So a couple days go by I then called up the shop ask them if everything was set to go. “No it's not ready we replaced the bottom valley cover bolts and put the cracked bottom intake manifold back on the car until the new one got here went to go start it up and the car wouldn't start. It doesn't crank or anything. We are going to wait till the new bottom of the intake manifold comes put that on see if it fixes the problem.”
They put the new bottom of the intake manifold on and still won't start. The car has been starting every time when I got there, when we ran it on the dyno twice, started it to pull it off the dyno, started it to put it back into the shop, Car ran perfectly fine after it was taking off the dyno. Now let's go back to taking the intake manifold off. The intake manifold was sitting up higher than it normally would do to the fact that the 10 valley factory bolts weren't allowing it too go down all the way.
The reason I was told that the car kept going into reduce power mode was because it was running too lean possibly due to the fact that the intake manifold was sitting up too high. Making the car run rich would fix the problem of it going lean and back into reduced power mode. Now that the intake manifold is actually sitting the way it is suppose to, would you have to lean it out a little????
I asked the tech's why it wasn't starting and they had no clue. They think it could be possibly be the anti theft alarm has come on and won't allow the car to start?!?!
They said they have checked spark, fuel & compression all turns out ok and that the tune they put on the car was fine. The whole starting problem began after the intake manifold was taken off and put back on again.
This is where I stand right now, lost as hell. Can you guys provide me with some kind of answer beside the anti theft alarm is keeping it from starting or is that really why the car isn't starting???? Please Help thanks
I have a 2001 Z06 corvette with 35,000 miles on it. I just did performance mods to the car over the winter. I put ETP 215 cylinder heads with upgraded springs, big camshaft Gross valve lift intake .630 exhaust .630, Fast 90mm Intake manifold, Nick Williams 90mm T-body, Texas Speed Long tube headers with straight pipes to replace the cats, SLP loud mouth exhaust no mufflers, Halltech Stinger Cold air intake, SLP under drive pulley, Push-rods, SLP oil pump, 42 Fuel injectors, Double Roller timing chain, Ram Clutch, Ram Flywheel, Upgraded master cylinder, Upgraded slave, Went with different size tires in front 275/35/18's Rear 315/30/18's.
I did all the work in my garage besides the clutch work which was done at a performance shop about 4 months ago. The car ran fine after that work was done.
So, after all the work was completed I started up the car with my Stock fuel injectors from the factory. The car started right up with out the PCM retune which would be re-tuned at a later date.
The car ran rough when first started and it would run in reduced power when it was cold. When the car got up to temp the car ran mint. So after putting it all together I set up my Appt for a dyno tune. While waiting for the tow truck to get to my house, we pulled it out of the garage and heard a ticking sound coming from underneath the valve cover on the driver side. We didn't think much of it because it went away as soon as the car warmed up. We thought it could have been an exhaust leak or possibly the springs.
Finally, we got it up to the dyno shop. The car was parked for a baseline tune, drove it around for a little bit, and had trouble with the car because it kept going into a reduced power mode. So after screwing around with the car, we finally got it to run right.
The performance shop was using a HP tuner Software. They pulled it up on the dyno, put it in 4th gear and hit it. I walked over to the dyno graph and noticed it only made 405 Rear wheel horse and 405 Rear wheel torque. “Hmmmm something doesn’t seem right,” the tech said. So he gave it another try ran it up too 7000 RPMS once again same number 405/405 “hmmmm what is going on?”
After talking with the tech, he said the car should be making at the very least 440+. Looking at the dyno graph, the car would start to lose horse power after 5500 RPMS and he said it should be building a lot more power from 5500 RPMS and up not losing power.
So after everyone got a puzzled look on there face he talked to one of the tech’s about the ticking sound. After pulling off the driver side valve cover the rocker arms were loose and they ased if we preloaded the valve. I then answered no. They Responded back that that’s probably why you are losing power after 5500 RPMS because the valves aren't opening all the way.
Then my answer back was what do I need to do to fix this??? He then said you need to grind off the rocker pedestal so they could preload the lifters. I said well is that something you guys could do for me. The tech said sure. So I left the car at the performance shop so they could grind off both rocker pedestal's so the valves would open all the way and they also gave me new rocker arms.
After 4 days I was excited too go run the car on the dyno again and see the improvement it has made. I got a phone call from the performance shop asking me questions about the intake manifold. They asked if I replaced the 10 factory valley cover bolts underneath the intake manifold. I said no. His response back was “well do you have the 10 valley cover bolts the intake manifold came with.” “Yes I do.” He said he needed the valley cover bolts so they could tune my car. The intake manifold was sitting up to high so it caused a bad vacuum leak and was hoping I didn't crack the bottom of the intake manifold. I got to the shop ASAP gave the tech the 10 valley cover bolts took the intake manifold off and it was cracked underneath.
The tech said that the reason why your car has such a high idle and could also be a good possibility why its losing power. The good thing is that the intake manifold comes in 3 pieces so they ordered the bottom of the intake manifold.
The ticking sound was gone which was a good thing. So a couple days go by I then called up the shop ask them if everything was set to go. “No it's not ready we replaced the bottom valley cover bolts and put the cracked bottom intake manifold back on the car until the new one got here went to go start it up and the car wouldn't start. It doesn't crank or anything. We are going to wait till the new bottom of the intake manifold comes put that on see if it fixes the problem.”
They put the new bottom of the intake manifold on and still won't start. The car has been starting every time when I got there, when we ran it on the dyno twice, started it to pull it off the dyno, started it to put it back into the shop, Car ran perfectly fine after it was taking off the dyno. Now let's go back to taking the intake manifold off. The intake manifold was sitting up higher than it normally would do to the fact that the 10 valley factory bolts weren't allowing it too go down all the way.
The reason I was told that the car kept going into reduce power mode was because it was running too lean possibly due to the fact that the intake manifold was sitting up too high. Making the car run rich would fix the problem of it going lean and back into reduced power mode. Now that the intake manifold is actually sitting the way it is suppose to, would you have to lean it out a little????
I asked the tech's why it wasn't starting and they had no clue. They think it could be possibly be the anti theft alarm has come on and won't allow the car to start?!?!
They said they have checked spark, fuel & compression all turns out ok and that the tune they put on the car was fine. The whole starting problem began after the intake manifold was taken off and put back on again.
This is where I stand right now, lost as hell. Can you guys provide me with some kind of answer beside the anti theft alarm is keeping it from starting or is that really why the car isn't starting???? Please Help thanks
Last edited by SMahar28; 04-08-2007 at 06:35 PM.
