Motor mounts ?
#5
They will wear out. When you change your clutch, move the bell housing by hand. If the motor pivots up untill the bell housing hits the transmission tunnel like mine did , replace them and go solid!!
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Originally Posted by Silver SS in Germany
Something is bangin and I'm sure if it is the motor mount or exhaust.
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#8
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you got m6, cam. so, if you think it is m-mount then drivr side will wear/break first. cause of tq. u can tell by just gassing it in nuetral and see if motor lifts from driver side. now it will lift slitely so dont mistake it as m-mount been bad. take a look at a friends motor that you know m-mounts are good and use that as reference. if that checks good but, u hear/feel banging then check exhaust system and trans-mount.
#10
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The passenger side should go first, at least mine did. The motor in our cars torques to the passenger's side when you rev it and take off.
FYI, when you buy mounts, I recommend Prothane over Energy Suspension. Prothane's poly compound is stiffer than ES's and will handle big power a little better over time. Trust me, you DON'T want to do this install more than once. Plus engine mounts don't add any meaningful noise and vibration like a stiff transmission mount will.
Jason
FYI, when you buy mounts, I recommend Prothane over Energy Suspension. Prothane's poly compound is stiffer than ES's and will handle big power a little better over time. Trust me, you DON'T want to do this install more than once. Plus engine mounts don't add any meaningful noise and vibration like a stiff transmission mount will.
Jason
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some just replace the drivers side one. that will control most of the movement for the most part. think about it when you launch the passengers side rear usually swats more do to the torque. drivers side lifts up and passengers side goes down.
#14
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Thanks for the good info guys. I just found out that I will be flying back to the USA on the 5th of May. So I have to ship the car in the next few weeks. Not enough time to do a motor mount switch now.