MdFormula350

iTrader: (4)

I just finished up prothane poly engine mounts, and was finally ready to install my longtubes because stock manifolds suck.

anyway I start with the passengers side because I heard some people having problems. well sure enough I bolted in a middle bolt and one in the front to make sure the header was level and bam right on the k-member the furthest primary tube.

not sure what to do, I am certainly not grinding or banging anything at least for now.

anyone have a nice picture shot if they have any clearance between that spot, so to see what i might be able to adjust if anything.

i had to go to work so I am taking a breather right now.

MdFormula350

iTrader: (4)

ttt bump

ChocoTaco369

i got a question for you. once you got all the stock exhaust off, how long did it take you to install the prothanes? basically, how much longer do you think the prothanes added to the install time. more than 1-2 hours? i'm under the impression that they only take a few minutes once all the stock exhaust is off the car. how accurate is that statement?

MdFormula350

iTrader: (4)

about 4 - 5 hours in total over the span of 12 hours

13 mm long and stubble, 3/8 breaker bar and racket will get you the bolts off the engine side.

the longer main bolt is 18mm head and nut.


drivers side:

once manifold is out just remove the alternator and bracket that takes about an hour after you know what your looking for.

passengers side i removed the starter and moved the a/c pump way forward and removed the bracket. that was about 1 1/2 hours after getting the right tools.

most of the time is jacking up the engine and going back and forth when your by yourself.

most of the total time is drilling out the rivets and then ripping off the rubber mounts and then cleaning off the old rubber stuck to the metal with glue, since I didnt have a torch.

ChocoTaco369

ouch...i wonder if it would cut a lot of time off using a lift...

MdFormula350

iTrader: (4)

doubt it since you need to jack the engine up and down and for that I rather do it from the ground.

I did the drivers side first and got quicker on the passengers side. instead of sitting there starring I just started unbolting things and it worked out. about 5 hours in total of actually work the other hours were resting and thinking.





anyway back on topic here are some pics, I just took both headers off and boxed them going to call summit racing and see what they would do, but I rather get a set from QTP after they verify they fit and dont touch the k-member like mine, I believe I got a set from the bad batch they had that did this most likely.

Redlinez

iTrader: (5)

Wow, that sucks man. Mine are still sitting under my house. I'd lose it if mine did that.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

You can do it on a lift. I used a trans jack on a lift When I went solid.

SladeX

I did the install over the weekend and found great clearance on both sides. Shouldn't be touching.

GOT2BSS

You would think a $700.+ part would have better quality control
I did mine last year when this problem was more common, mine just barely clear. Maybe you just got some from old stock, good luck

Quick Time

iTrader: (1)

I responded to your email but here is again.
You need to put all the bolts in loose and have some from under neath push the header out of the way of the k member and then tighten the bolts up. The header flange holes are a little larger to allow a little play. If the header is not held in place it will sag and rest of the k member. The so called batch batch was 14 months ago and was only 10 headers. We have made and shipped over 500 sets since then with out a problem.

Redlinez

iTrader: (5)

Good to hear. Thanks QTP for the hint.

MdFormula350

iTrader: (4)

once i had 3 bolts snug on the header, i did move it around to try and see what kinda play on it, it does have some however each time forward or back touched the k-member it seemed i guess I can give it another chance putting the bolts very snug. however if the bolts lossen up somehow it seems that it would work its way back down on the k-member which wouldnt be good.

Quick Time

iTrader: (1)

Once you have the bolts torqued down and your exhaust connected, it will not move.

MdFormula350

iTrader: (4)

ok took the gasket out and snugged the 2 outer most bolts.

the pics are with me pushing up fairly hard and sliding it forward and back i can barely stick a ruler between and there is no gasket.







the engine is level with the k-member after the mount, so the engine isnt titling to one side or the other.



also the tranny is centered




So I am all out of ideas. I was going to go to my local performance place and see if they have any of the same headers so I could size them up with my passengers side.

MdFormula350

iTrader: (4)

if anyone has a picture of their clearance between the k-memeber and number 2 cyclinder tube please post it, trying to find out what the hell i am doing wrong. I would like to drive my car sometime this week.

Sudz

iTrader: (3)

pull the header down and just BFH a ding there, you wont ever see it or even be able to tell it ever happend, mine did the same thing i just did the mounts and headers 3weeks ago

MdFormula350

iTrader: (4)

ill wait a few days before banging or cutting, thats a rule when working with f-bodies

MdFormula350

iTrader: (4)

thinking about trying another brand of headers to see how they will fit, thinking about Kooks. since I dont think I should have to clearance the k-member and with barely enough room to see space between the header without the gasket on I dont think its enough room IMO without clearancing the k-member.

SladeX

Are you using the stock GM gaskets?

those are very thin and seal up nicely, once I tightened down on everything, I had no issues. Try reusing the stock gaskets and bolt and torque everything down, you may find it's alright and not going to touch when in.