ws6pewter

iTrader: (1)

I want to remove my stock cat back in 1 piece. How far do I need to drop the axle to accomplish this? Will just jacking the car up and letting the axle hang be good enough or will have to un bolt things? If it needs to be lowered further what will I have to unhook to get it down enough?

I know i have seen this before but since the search has been down I'm not able to find it and I plan on doing this tomorrow

Thanks

shawn's SS

iTrader: (5)

You'll need to remove the pass side shock, spring and wheel/tire. Then you'll be able to wiggle it out.

silverbandit0996

iTrader: (2)

is there some reason you want to keep it in one piece? i hacked mine all up

ws6pewter

iTrader: (1)

Damn that seems like a lot of work.

I just trying to keep all original parts intact since I'm the first owner and I have no plans of selling. If I ever want to go back to stock some time in the future I can.

Also I just purchased a used LM1 and the pipe going over the axle has been welded. So I figure if I can get the stock exhaust off in one piece then I should be able to get the LM1 on in one piece so I don't have to cut and weld

Z28_SIMMONS

Go to town on that thing!!

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

if you cut it just before the axle where its heading up, you can remove it with only one cut.

if you want to remove the entire thing, you need to unbolt the shocks so that the axle can swing lower (the shocks are what limit the axle from swinging down)

the car will have to be pretty high. when i did it i maxxed out on large jackstands... then it can be wiggled out with some work.

cutting it is alot easier.

jag42420

Cut it straight, and have it welded back together if you ever need to put it back on. I used a sawsall.

ws6pewter

iTrader: (1)

Guys I got the LM1 on and I was wondering if the clearance that I have around the resonator is correct. Towards the back of the resonator I have less than 1/2" between the floor pan and on the other side I'm just as close to the drive shaft....Cannot fit a finger in the space!!. I also have the same spacing above the axle at the floor pan but at least in that location there is a heat shield. But at the resonator there no heat shield?

Is this enough clearance?

jag42420

Sounds awful close, I'd drive it around and see if it hits when you torque it (Drive up & down some uneven surfaces, kick it down a bit here & there, especially when turning).

I wouldn't expect the heat to be a problem unless it can hit. I've seen some exhaust systems tucked up so tight you'd swear they had to hit without any problems. It shouldn't get as hot as the cats do, assuming you're running cats...

ws6pewter

iTrader: (1)

I just went out and looked again. I do have more clearance on the drive shaft side than I thought. But I only have about 1/4" to 3/8" clearance to the floor board. I'm running cats so I think I'll drive it for a bit to see how hot the resonator actually gets.

I think the problem is that the person that had this exhaust before had the pipe going over the axle welded together so I cannot adjust the length of the pipe going to the resonator. If all else fails I guess I'll have to go to an exhaust shop and have them put a new section in.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

IF you can get it out in one piece....more power to you. I would cut it right before it goes over the axle.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Ive removed mine one shot. I also was swapping in a 12 bolt so it worked out for all

NBM-WU8

iTrader: (2)

I also plan on removing mine as one piece. If it comes down to it, the rear end will come out to make it happen. Call me weird, but I'd rather not cut it. Plus I have nothing better to do with my time, so it will be a good project along with some

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

It takes less time to unbolt the bottome bolt on the shock, and remove the wheel/spring than it does to cut the exhaust IMO. I've done it both ways, and the single removal is much less stressful, and cleaner. for me, just jack up the RR,take out the bottom shock bolt, and panhard bolts, then let the suspension drop, pull the wheel, pull out the spring(just falls out, and BAM, you got the full exhaust.

Plus, if its a completely stock exhaust, having the entire catback as one piece makes it alot easier to braeak that spot weld that GM puts where the Y-pipe and I-pipe meet.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Also to mention, I dont know how many miles on the stock exhaust and where it was driven, mine was 31k, daily driven (good weather days) near boston, when pulles out it didnt look nearly as good as a bud's 4k mile exhaust, that prev owner put a Borla on almost immediately.