badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

FAST78mm intake install should I replace my port gaskets and throttle body gaskets w/ new FAST stuff?

what are the chances of my OEM stuff still in good shape car has 85K miles
manifold has never been off the car.

Thanks

silent1

iTrader: (3)

Replace them with the FAST gaskets. Some people have had issues with vacuum leaks because the oem gaskets don't fill the deeper slots in the FAST manifolds very well.

SSmoked!

iTrader: (2)

Even if your car had only 10k miles you should replace the gaskets!!!! you dont want leaks man!!!

radkon

iTrader: (2)

For 25$ I replaced the stockers with FAST ones. They are MUCH beefire than the stockers.

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

OK I'm planning on replacing port seal gaskets w/ the FAST.

?1. should the TB seal gasket also be FAST?

?2.now I concerned w/ the fuel injector O rings both top & bottom either getting torn on removal or just being cracked from age should I be replacing these also?

?3. I got a fuel line removal tool for fuel line at the manifold but can't figure out how it works it's a small flat round thing with a crack size 7/8" any tips on how to operate this tool?

I had a simiarl tool for fuel line removal for the fuel fliter (a scissors type tool) could'nt get that to work either just used needle nose to squewsh the clip together.

Lastly resently I saw a FAST that has been on a car for less than a year observed the allen head bolts were completely rusted any thought on this.

Thanks for any tips on installing this intake I've never done a manifold swap.

Thule

do the FAST gaskets dont come with the manifold?!?!?!? if not i am getting a little pisst, bougth the fast fuel rails and no one mentioned that i would need the adapter kit, and now this..

erikthegoalie

iTrader: (29)

ws6store has em, i used em, nice items....for as much as you spend on a FAST, the seals are like chump change

daryl2cb@yahoo.com

iTrader: (2)

any new gaskets will work, fast or not, just when installing them seat them about half way only. As far as the injector orings gm are best bet here, I think they are about a buck a piece. follow the write up on ls1howto for the intake, hopefully you got the new coolant tubes and block offs if not your intake will not fully seat, also it is a good idea to have a rubber malet to slightly pound down the front coolant pipe under the TB to get a good seat. best suggestion I have for you is this, remove the old one via ls1howto, get a 6 inch piece of 1/4 inch inside diameter fuel line and cut it in 1 inch sections slice it long wise so you can use it yo hold up the rear most intake bolts as they can not be fully removed in the car,now you have two free hands to get the intake off, standing on the driver side pull the brake booster vac line off the master cylinder, and follow it to the rear of the intake with your right hand. keep your hand here and pull up with your thumb on the oil pressure sender and guide the brake vac line over the sender. guess what you just saved 80 bucks on a new pressure sender, lift and remove old intake. install new one on car out of the box no gaskets, check your coolant line bend it down till you are fully seated on the heads, pull the intake back off and bolt up fuel rails brackets map sensor, ect, and you should be good to go. Do not forget the replace the valley cover bolts.

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

daryl2cb how did you like the FAST78mm I've been tiold to expect 30RWHP?

LS1howto is a excellent resouce however JMX leaves stuff out assumming we know.
never mentions to lift up on manifold to remove JMX say's to slide forward this would break the oil sender.
GM has dissapointed again ask for new injector O- rings expect to pay $85. wholesale. I'll get some from NAPA for $1.09 each plannin to replace only the lowers.

The front coolant tube was'nt securely packaged thanks again GM I bet that's how you'res got bent I do have a rubber hammer just in case nice tip.

Test fit the manifold nice tip.

why only press the port seal gaskets halfway?

I tryed to reach around manifold to see if I could remove the brake fat vacumn line w/ manifold installed this maybe undoable I've been told thats the safest way to prevent the oil sender getting broke. I like you're suggestion hold the thumb on sender w/ tube attached and lift.
After doing this an slicing up my arm on those stupid plastic screws in the cowl thanks again GM. I'll use some flush cutters on the GM razors.

Thule I bought mine used new it comes as a kit including everything.

Thanks

daryl2cb@yahoo.com

iTrader: (2)

well I leave the gaskets half out so I let the heads set them where they want them to be.

yeah forgot to mention that cut the cowl tabs off, they are sharp.

you can not slide the manifold there are 4 feet on the bottom, check it out, you have to lift.

I never was able to pull the line off the manifold, but you can see taking the whole line out at one time works just great, plus you can side by side the two intake and visually swap everything, it would suck getting the intake back in a not getting the map sensor seated, or being able to get the vac line back on.

as far as 30 hp, I saw close to that but I had other issues with pcv and other things I solved at same time, I would look at atleast a solid 18-25

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

Nice Goat.

I dig the website did you use Flash Layers for the images to be timed to appear from right to left?

I've been self learning flash it's so cool but I have to pay for web space for flash to be published or do you know of a free site.

Thanks

radkon

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, I just used adobe photoshop (elements) to create the photo gallery.

Thule

i thougth the Fast gaskets would come with the intake/tb package that i bougth, so i used the oem, they where like new and seemed to do the job,

but then agen i havn't started the motor jet

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

when I found out the FAST seals where 1/8" thicker it was a no brainer.

plan on installing this LSX this weekend weather premitting.