Demon Of Dreams

iTrader: (3)

should be fairly entertaining... it'll be 20" off the ground, I expect for things to come apart fairly easilly, but as for putting things back, that should get interesting.

Figure, plugs and wires, simple.
Manifolds, straight forward...
Cats/Ypipe? could be a little tricky...

now as for putting the headers up into the engine bay from below, while on my back, could be a hassle, as I've got no one to grab one, and I've not really got a lot of space for myself to work, and am tempted to tie a string on them temporarily so I can climb my *** out from under the car to attempt to do all bolts from the top



am I screwed or will it just take 6 or 7 hours?

HIPER-Z

iTrader: (22)

It can be a hassle, i just did mine, and had it up on a lift, and it took me and my buddy about 3-4 hours.

connexion2005

iTrader: (49)

Its going to take you more like 8-10 hours when its all said and done unless you've done it before. Other than that, this is basically what it did with similar circumstances...except I also did poly motor mounts and highly recommend if you are patient to just order some. You won't regret it but it will add about 5 hours to your install if you've never done them to.

blacksskid07

iTrader: (4)

I did it my 1st time pretty my by myself in 4 hours. and I did plugs, wires, and 13111 O2's as well. Just get a goot set of jack stands like 3 ton, and a nice jack. Basic tools and you will be fine! I drove mine open headers to the exhaust shop like alot of people on here

shoot me a pm if you need any help

connexion2005

iTrader: (49)

4 Hours IMO is impressive for the first time...I just didn't want to undershoot him...lol.

blackmaro99

iTrader: (5)

Grab a case of beer. Apparently it's a required tool for this job.

HIPER-Z

iTrader: (22)

Well i had my buddy helping me and he has done it lots of times, i did most the work but my car just liked me that day lol

Demon Of Dreams

iTrader: (3)

I've got everything I need...

plugs are gapped properly
gaskets are sitting quietly upon the floor
some 6 ton jack stands (I wanted the additional 8" over the 3 ton which stop at about 16")
O2 extensions are there, rear O2 bungs are plugged
12 Negra Modelo sitting nicely in the fridge awaiting my long day in the heat

The only thing that will stop me, in all honesty, is just waking up early enough to make it matter.

not doing motor mounts, those will be done when I do an UMI K-Member/A-Arms
not doing tranny mount, that will be done when I do my TQ arm relocation and new TQ arm

I've not done headers on any 4thgen, the only headers I've done prior were on an 88 Silverado, a 79 C10, and an 83 Z28 ... but that was a fuckton more space to work with even on the Z28 ...

I wish I had access to a lift, but I'm getting impatient, and I have far too much time off this week so it needs to get done tomorrow because i want to do some other **** with my off time, haha.

Sluggish

iTrader: (10)

you may need a sawz-all like I did to cut a 1/4 inch off an ear that is on the driver side of the block.

camaro4me

iTrader: (8)

is there a writeup anywhere to follow??

blacksskid07

iTrader: (4)

allright it was more like 4 1/2 lol kinda. but I did use my eletric impact wrench and I'm really good with these ls1's.

Shinigami2x4

Took me three days or so of random work time and work interferring..and one hand that i could fully use. i got cut pretty bad and needed stitches in my middle finger (still have them) so there was limited use of my right hand but take your time and most importantly think before you act..

HIPER-Z

iTrader: (22)

ya ya ya anyways, as long as you dont run into any big problems, should be able to cruise right through with it, just make sure you have no plans that day in case you do or you'll be carless or have to run open headers.

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

you might want to rethink this whole thing...

you NEED a friend...for mounting and a few other things....also need to get it high

teke184

iTrader: (5)

this should help

i cut the little "ear" off with just a hacksaw blade and some visegrips.

definatly have some string handy for holding up the headers to crawl out. or an extra jack stand

and have some masking tape to protect the headers from sharp corners/edges

Fb0dy0nly

iTrader: (10)

just pay a neighbor a few bucks to come and help you get them up and some of the bolts in to hold them, it will be much easier for you. Get everything off, then start to get um in and when you need the hand to help slide um up, find someone walking around and just asks. Couldnt hurt IMO. Maybe you will luck out and that random car guy will walk by and be like hey, looks like you need some help with those headers, let me go grab my work gloves....then your set.

Demon Of Dreams

iTrader: (3)

hmm... work gloves...


I could have invested in those I suppose, but ... too late now...
starting as soon as the car cools a bit, I had to drive the woman to work (dammit)

if the casting tab becomes a problem, it gives me a good excuse to take a break, go buy a dremel and walk back... there's a pawn shop right down the street that has a few good things I might want

I've got 4 jack stands to use, I'll probably keep the car up as high as I can get on all four corners, something tells me once its all cooled down I shouldn't really have many problems at all.

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

Demon? is that you?
come back... come back to 3GO... you know you want to.

Demon Of Dreams

iTrader: (3)

of course it is!

haha I haven't been on that board in forever, I don't think my passwords/emails even match anymore

ChocoTaco369

don't be surprised if 20" isn't high enough. the popular consensus on this website is that 24" is the magic number. this holds especially true if you're installing a set like QTP's or kooks, as they need to be stood up almost vertically to be installed. if you're installing, say, pacesetters, you may be okay since they're quite a bit smaller than kooks or QTP's.

if you need more ground clearance, put a wooden board on top of the jack and jack your car up wood-to-metal to gain another inch or two.