Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge Help
08-16-2007, 11:37 PM
#1
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 542
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge Help My factory oil pressure gauge is reading strangely, and I think it may be the sending unit but I'm not sure. What I want to do is install my Auto Meter Sport-Comp II mechanical oil pressure gauge so I can read more accurately. The plug above the oil filter is an odd size, and the gauge kit did not come with the fitting of the correct size. How is everyone adapting to use a mechanical gauge from that hole in the block? It came with 1/4'' to 3/8'' NPT adapter and an 1/8'' to 1/4'' NPT adapter. Does anyone know what size thread and pitch I need to adapt either one of those to?
update: appears to be a 5/8, still not sure on thread though...
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
-Ross
update: appears to be a 5/8, still not sure on thread though...
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
-Ross
Last edited by RoDan; 08-17-2007 at 12:51 AM.
01-30-2009, 07:03 PM
#3
TECH Resident
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: South Alabama
Posts: 937
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The aluminum casting fixture above the oil filter already has the port started (on F-bodies - at least my '02 was). You should tap it out to 1/8" - 27 NPT. You should have one fitting that will fit this size. You will need a letter "R" drill (0.339" diameter) as this is the tap drill size for 1/8" - 27 NPT. Its a hard drill size to find unless you go to a "REAL" hardware store - home depot and ace type stores won't generally carry letter size drills (last time I purchased a HSS R drill it was $3.50, c.: 2004. The tap can be bought at any good automotive parts store.
Don't go too deep with the tap either, a pipe tap is tapered approx. 1.5 degrees in order to create a seal on the threads. Stay 6-7 FULL THREADS from the top of the tap from the end of the hole you are tapping - otherwise you run the risk of it not sealing off.
Basically: the deeper you go the wider the hole!
Don't go too deep with the tap either, a pipe tap is tapered approx. 1.5 degrees in order to create a seal on the threads. Stay 6-7 FULL THREADS from the top of the tap from the end of the hole you are tapping - otherwise you run the risk of it not sealing off.
Basically: the deeper you go the wider the hole!
01-30-2009, 07:19 PM
#4
On my car the casting fixture above the oil filter already had the right size hole in it.
All I did was run the 1/8" npt tap through it, and drill a 1/8" to 3/16" hole to connect the end of this hole to the part that meets the oil port in the block. It's very obvious when you take that part off and look at it.
Remove part from engine, run the tap though it, drill, clean, install sender, reinstall part on engine.
All I did was run the 1/8" npt tap through it, and drill a 1/8" to 3/16" hole to connect the end of this hole to the part that meets the oil port in the block. It's very obvious when you take that part off and look at it.
Remove part from engine, run the tap though it, drill, clean, install sender, reinstall part on engine.
01-31-2009, 09:31 PM
#5
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: deam land
Posts: 623
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a Moroso oil pan with a remote filter. My stock sensor stopped working so I tapped into the rear oil galley plug. It's very easy to remove, drill one to two sizes smaller then your fitting you want to use then tap so you have threads. Works perfect!
