Grifter

iTrader: (12)

I was thinking about getting a set of solid motor mounts. I know that they're a pain to install but I was thinking; would it be any easier if I removed the k-member? Or is it still difficult to get at some of the bolts. I need to get the car back on the lift to get an idea, but I have just been running this through my head and figured I'd post it up.

This would not be done on the ground. It would be on a lift with an engine support bracket.

Thanks for any input.

arcticwhiteTA

iTrader: (9)

I think it would be a lot harder to drop the k-frame than to swap mounts. My friends and I JUST finished swapping in some spohn solid motor mounts tonight. It took us about 4 hours (on jack stands) to get the old ones out and the new ones bolted in. we used a swivel and some ratchet wrenches, some PB blaster and lots of WD-40. I haven't driven it around yet to feel the difference but it was a lot easier than I expected. The bolt holes really lined up well.

When you drop the k-frame, you also have to drop the front shock assemblies ( I believe). Lower and upper A-arms, struts, all that. It seems like it would be easier just to lift the motor a little bit.

3.4camaro

iTrader: (1)

It's so much easier with a lift. I have solid mounts, swapped when I did a k-frame swap. I have all Spohn stuff.

It's cake with a lift. The bolts are easy to get to.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

I love my Spohn's. They probably took about 1.5 hours to install. I used a lift when I worked at a shop. That made it really easy.

Mudvayne

iTrader: (1)

If you can't get to a lift I'd just pay someone to do it if your headers are already in. I remember someone said the shop hours on replacing them were 3-5 hours I believe

Grifter

iTrader: (12)

The car will be on a lift, that's not a problem.

So how did you guys go about installing them on a lift that made it so much easier? Like I said, I need to get another look at them but dropping the k-member didn't seem to hard IF that would help the install at all.

Grifter

iTrader: (12)

I think you just have to unbolt the bottom of the shock(that bolts to the lower a-arm), outer tie-rods and lower balljoint.

I guess I wouldn't want to drop it all the way or else I would have to disconnect the PS lines. Maybe just drop it enough to get me more clearance.

theinstag8r

iTrader: (3)

Don't mean to highjack this thread BUT how does everyone feel about their solid mounts once there in.I'm looking into getting solids for my ss, had prothane mounts in my z28 and loved them.

Grifter

iTrader: (12)

Do a quick search and you'll see that most people who have them love them. A lot of the people who knock them have never even ran them.

theinstag8r

iTrader: (3)

I just decided I'm gonna do them anyway, if i don't like it or gives me problems I'll change em out.

arcticwhiteTA

iTrader: (9)

True. I guess I didn't think that all the way through haha. You would have to get the sway bar as well. The key is that you'll be doing it on a lift and that will be a lot easier than jackstands. So either way should work out well. And you're right about the PS lines. I've read about a couple people lifting the motor too much and cracking a line.

Likestogofast

iTrader: (6)

Just go solids and don't look back. My wife couldn't even notice a difference and the power delivery is much better and instantaneous. No need drop the k member. The stock mounts are a pain to get out but nothing you can't handle after moving the alternator and the ac compressor out of the way. Once the stock mounts are out the solids do go in pretty easy.

TheSilverOne

iTrader: (22)

i swapped to spohn solids while doing my headers. it was easy with the exhaust manifolds out of the way. i didn't move the alternator or ac compressor out of the way. i had the car up on jackstands and placed a 8 x 8 piece of wood between the oil pan and jack to lift up the motor a little bit when removing the stock mounts.

Grifter

iTrader: (12)

Yeah, you are right. I would have to unbolt it from the frame.

Thanks for the input guys.

Grifter

iTrader: (12)

I just got a look at the mounts on the lift. They actually don't look that bad. I don't think dropping the k-member will help too much, maybe just lowering it alittle.

Thanks for the input.

Grifter

iTrader: (12)

I got the Spohn's, now I'm just waiting to install them.

BFarrier

i install my Spohn's today there coming to be deiliver in about an hour and then off to work at the shop!!

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

"My wife couldn't even notice a difference"..
But, my g/f likes the "sensation"!!

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

Solids are CAKE to install. Much easier than poly's. Just throw a block of wood under the oil pan, lift it up, pull the old mounts out, and throw the new ones in. Not hard at all. I've had both and I like them both. They both have their pluses. FWIW, I didn't really honestly notice much of a difference in vibrations jumping between stockers, to poly's, to solids...

The one's that tell you that they are going to rattle your teeth out are ignorant and haven't tried them. They just want to SOUND like they know what the hell they're talking about...

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

When I install solid motor mounts, I support the engine and unbolt the k-member bolts and steering knuckle while leaving the shocks and a-arms bolted. The k-member will hang a good 4-5" lower minimum. I slip the mounts in place, loosely thread them into the block and then raise the k-member back up. Then I loosely thread in all of the bottom bolts into the k-member and then I snug everything up. I am usually only doing mounts when I am doing headers at the same time, so that makes it easier too.