looking for tips & advice on lt & ory install
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Beaufort, SC
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
looking for tips & advice on lt & ory install
I am about to install my lt's and ory on my 2000 z28 and if anyone has any tips or advice on the install process I would be very grateful if you would share them. Thanks.
#2
On The Tree
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Sioux City, IA
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
first of all i would say post ur ? in the right forum, second I would prolly try the search button. My advice is to get the car as high off the ground as possible, and the easiest way to get the driver side header in is to take the motor mount bolt out and jack up on the engine. For the pass. side take the coil pack off. Get a 10mm ratchet wrench cause the last few bolts on the pass. side are a pita to get off. Dont forget to take the plugs out as well. Hopefully that helps ya out.
#3
12 Second Club
iTrader: (44)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 406
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
just did mine, I had no problems what so ever on the driver side...took me 30 min to get the manifold off, plugs out and get the Pacesetter back up in and bolted up....now the passenger side is a bitch....take the first 5 bolts out starting from the front...then for the last one grab the manifold and pull up so that it rotates down in the back, then you can stick ur hand in from the bottom and get that last bolt out.....I also removed the stud for the FRC's off one of the coil packs b/c of the SOB cutting me up.....but other than that.....PATIENCE!!!!....make sure when you reasemble that you use plenty of anti seize!!
#4
Staging Lane
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Nacogdoches, TX
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
First, make sure you have plenty of time so that you dont have to rush to finish. I set aside 2 days for the install. You dont want to be pressed for time and end up cutting corners, or forgetting something because you ran out of time.
Second, make sure you have all of the tools you need. Go buy a 10mm gear ratchet from lowes or similar store. It will be your best friend for most of the job. Other than that, just a good set of metric wrenches and sockets will do. An impact helped with the rusty manifold to pipe bolts, but it isnt a must. Have a can of PB penetrating spray handy and dont be afraid to use it. It will help loosen the bolts.
Heres how I did the removal:
First I unbolted the coil packs from the valve covers. That give you a lot more room to get to the manifold bolts. With the coil packs off, I didnt have much trouble getting a wrench on any of the manifold bolts. Next you want to get the car as high as you can. Everything will have to come out and go in from the bottom. From there I unbolted all O2 sensors. If you plan on using an off road Y, then you can just unplug the rears from the wiring harness since you wont need then anyway. Remove the Y pipe and set it aside. Its only a few bolts, 8 I think. If you snap the bolts while trying to break them loose its ok, you wont reuse anything from the stock pipes. From here, only the manifolds should be left. Get a stool, or lower the car and unbolt them. Its 6 bolts on each side, then they should come out easily from the bottom. You will need to take the oil dipstick tube off of the passengers side also. I never removed my spark plugs. I had plenty of room with them in place. You might have to remove them for clerance, its also the perfect time to change them if needed. Before I put a wrench on any bolt minus the coil pack bolts, I soaked it with PB spray and let it soak for about 5 min before removing it. I didnt have one bolt give me any trouble.
Heres how the install went:
I tackled the passenger side header first. It went in easily, bolted up no problem. I reused the stock gaskets, and have on leaks so far. The drivers side was a little more tricky. I had to cut the casting tab on the side of the block before it would go in place. It took about 2 min with a sawzall. Some people have to remove the steering shaft also, mine just barely cleared it once I cut the tab. Once the headers are in place slide the Y pipe in place. Leave all the bolts slightly loose until you have everything in place so you can make little adjustments if needed. Once everything's in place start tightening everything starting from the front and working back. Tighten the headers from the inside out. Replace the O2 sensors, using the necessary extensions for the front sensors. Last install the coil packs, double check everything , then check it one more time.
Now fire it up, enjoy the new sound and go for a drive
Second, make sure you have all of the tools you need. Go buy a 10mm gear ratchet from lowes or similar store. It will be your best friend for most of the job. Other than that, just a good set of metric wrenches and sockets will do. An impact helped with the rusty manifold to pipe bolts, but it isnt a must. Have a can of PB penetrating spray handy and dont be afraid to use it. It will help loosen the bolts.
Heres how I did the removal:
First I unbolted the coil packs from the valve covers. That give you a lot more room to get to the manifold bolts. With the coil packs off, I didnt have much trouble getting a wrench on any of the manifold bolts. Next you want to get the car as high as you can. Everything will have to come out and go in from the bottom. From there I unbolted all O2 sensors. If you plan on using an off road Y, then you can just unplug the rears from the wiring harness since you wont need then anyway. Remove the Y pipe and set it aside. Its only a few bolts, 8 I think. If you snap the bolts while trying to break them loose its ok, you wont reuse anything from the stock pipes. From here, only the manifolds should be left. Get a stool, or lower the car and unbolt them. Its 6 bolts on each side, then they should come out easily from the bottom. You will need to take the oil dipstick tube off of the passengers side also. I never removed my spark plugs. I had plenty of room with them in place. You might have to remove them for clerance, its also the perfect time to change them if needed. Before I put a wrench on any bolt minus the coil pack bolts, I soaked it with PB spray and let it soak for about 5 min before removing it. I didnt have one bolt give me any trouble.
Heres how the install went:
I tackled the passenger side header first. It went in easily, bolted up no problem. I reused the stock gaskets, and have on leaks so far. The drivers side was a little more tricky. I had to cut the casting tab on the side of the block before it would go in place. It took about 2 min with a sawzall. Some people have to remove the steering shaft also, mine just barely cleared it once I cut the tab. Once the headers are in place slide the Y pipe in place. Leave all the bolts slightly loose until you have everything in place so you can make little adjustments if needed. Once everything's in place start tightening everything starting from the front and working back. Tighten the headers from the inside out. Replace the O2 sensors, using the necessary extensions for the front sensors. Last install the coil packs, double check everything , then check it one more time.
Now fire it up, enjoy the new sound and go for a drive