Rocker Arm install question
10-28-2007, 09:40 PM
#1
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Rocker Arm install question according to the ls1howto.com website they recommend turning the motor over to find the closed valves either A. guessing. or B this.
2) The F-body method: Using a 24mm socket and a big wrench, you can turn the motor over by hand via the crankshaft pulley bolt in the center of the main pulley on the engine. While turning the bolt clockwise, you can watch the valvetrain move up and down. You'll see the exhaust valve spring compress......then it will come up and the intake valve will compress....and right after the intake valve comes back up the valves should stay shut for a bit. That will be a good place to stop turning the engine.
how hard is this to get to? I'm planning on replacing 3 rocker arms tom. along w/ 16 new rocker arm bolts. and wanted to use this method if its pretty simple...
what all do I have to remove to get to the crankshaft pulley bolt?
edit: might be a dumb question but what kind of adapter do I need to torque the 8mm allen bolts down...in otherwords how can i hook up an 8mm allen key to a torque wrench...I know stupid but im new at all this and just going slowly and don't have to many tools yet...adding everyday though.
Thanks
Chad
2) The F-body method: Using a 24mm socket and a big wrench, you can turn the motor over by hand via the crankshaft pulley bolt in the center of the main pulley on the engine. While turning the bolt clockwise, you can watch the valvetrain move up and down. You'll see the exhaust valve spring compress......then it will come up and the intake valve will compress....and right after the intake valve comes back up the valves should stay shut for a bit. That will be a good place to stop turning the engine.
how hard is this to get to? I'm planning on replacing 3 rocker arms tom. along w/ 16 new rocker arm bolts. and wanted to use this method if its pretty simple...
what all do I have to remove to get to the crankshaft pulley bolt?
edit: might be a dumb question but what kind of adapter do I need to torque the 8mm allen bolts down...in otherwords how can i hook up an 8mm allen key to a torque wrench...I know stupid but im new at all this and just going slowly and don't have to many tools yet...adding everyday though.
Thanks
Chad
Last edited by Nimitz87; 10-28-2007 at 09:45 PM.
10-28-2007, 11:13 PM
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Someone correct me if i'm wrong...but what is the need to close the valve if you are just replacing Rockers? I just yank the rocker off and put the new one on, and it will open the valve back up after being tightened.
10-29-2007, 01:08 PM
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no one can help?
what about this new question also. only 2 rockers are on the driver side head, how do I tell if those valves are closed when reinstalling the rockers? I had to take them off to ship them.
Chad
what about this new question also. only 2 rockers are on the driver side head, how do I tell if those valves are closed when reinstalling the rockers? I had to take them off to ship them.
Chad
10-29-2007, 02:07 PM
#5
You'll need to buy an 8mm allen socket (or get the set) for your torque wrench size. Check your local parts store in the tool section. If you are just replacing rockers, torque all to 22lb/ft, rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees and double check the torque on all rocker arm bolts. Loctite is optional. You can reach the crank pully bolt from under if the car is on a lift, or remove the lid/maf assembly to go from the top. The procedure you're refering to is to find tdc (top dead center.) This is where the piston is at the top of the cylinder. It keeps the valves from falling into the cylinders when the springs are removed. Are you changing springs too? Or just rockers?
10-29-2007, 02:15 PM
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You'll need to buy an 8mm allen socket (or get the set) for your torque wrench size. Check your local parts store in the tool section. If you are just replacing rockers, torque all to 22lb/ft, rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees and double check the torque on all rocker arm bolts. Loctite is optional. You can reach the crank pully bolt from under if the car is on a lift, or remove the lid/maf assembly to go from the top. The procedure you're refering to is to find tdc (top dead center.) This is where the piston is at the top of the cylinder. It keeps the valves from falling into the cylinders when the springs are removed. Are you changing springs too? Or just rockers?
so I can reach the crankshaft pulley bolt just from taking the maf off...thats easy enough.
thanks
Chad
10-29-2007, 02:42 PM
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The swap you are referring to should be a simple remove and replace. Torque the new rocker arm bolts to 22 ft-lbs....turn the engine over a couple of times...recheck the torque. There is no need to find TDC for swapping the rockers (in this application).
Cars where the valve lash has to be set require finding TDC for each cylinder before setting the lash...it's not necessary with what you are doing.
Cars where the valve lash has to be set require finding TDC for each cylinder before setting the lash...it's not necessary with what you are doing.
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10-29-2007, 04:36 PM
#9
The swap you are referring to should be a simple remove and replace. Torque the new rocker arm bolts to 22 ft-lbs....turn the engine over a couple of times...recheck the torque. There is no need to find TDC for swapping the rockers (in this application).
Cars where the valve lash has to be set require finding TDC for each cylinder before setting the lash...it's not necessary with what you are doing.
Cars where the valve lash has to be set require finding TDC for each cylinder before setting the lash...it's not necessary with what you are doing.
10-29-2007, 05:00 PM
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You'll need to buy an 8mm allen socket (or get the set) for your torque wrench size. Check your local parts store in the tool section. If you are just replacing rockers, torque all to 22lb/ft, rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees and double check the torque on all rocker arm bolts. Loctite is optional. You can reach the crank pully bolt from under if the car is on a lift, or remove the lid/maf assembly to go from the top. The procedure you're refering to is to find tdc (top dead center.) This is where the piston is at the top of the cylinder. It keeps the valves from falling into the cylinders when the springs are removed. Are you changing springs too? Or just rockers?
Chad
10-29-2007, 05:39 PM
#11
Can anyone confirm this?-J
Slightly OT: any track times from that setup?
10-29-2007, 07:58 PM
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Hmm... I don't know if there's an easier way to do it, but here's my take: Put a pushrod in, and gently push down on the lifter to make sure it's resting directly on the lobe, and rotate the crankshaft until when the lifter is on the base circle. At this point, the pushrod will be at the lowest point, hence putting the valve at it's highest point... at least that's what my logic tells me. Hope I explained it decent enough, and that I'm also right Can anyone confirm this?
-J
Slightly OT: any track times from that setup?
Can anyone confirm this?-J
Slightly OT: any track times from that setup?
man its a PITA to reach those 2 rear rockers on the passenger side...my big gorilla arms....
not yet...unforunately I've had some issues at the track, first run I had i broke my exhaust welds, 2nd run my master cylinder/clutch took a dump clutch stuck to the floor.
before the intake/cam stuff I ran an 8.2 @ 91mph.
Chad
