98TransAmNL

I'm planning on purchasing a FTRA kit for my 98 trans am this week and I am wondering should I purchase the SLP lid or the 85mm Fast Toys lid to go with it ???
The car is completely stock right now. I am planning on purchasing pacesetter long tube headers, ORY pipe & a magnaflow cat back in the near future. I'll probably at some point do a larger throttle body & a 85mm MAF.

Which lid should I get? I read a thread here about a guy that could now close his hood on a 99 Z28. I wouldn't have any trouble like this with the 85mm fast toys lid on my 98 T/A would I? My hood is not ram air.

Feedback please!

3rdgentug

iTrader: (23)

that was probly my thread

fast toys is working with me now to resolve the issue

i got the ftra and the 85mm lid from them, they give ya a slight discount if you purchase them together. i went with the delphi screened 85mm maf sensor

Black99CamaroSS

iTrader: (3)

The dynos show there is somethin to be gained from the switch to the 85mm lid and maf. It is probably not too noticable with just a bolt on car maybe 5 hp, maybe 10hp on a h/c car.

Fast Toys Performance Parts

iTrader: (3)

There are no reported problems on any of the Firebird, WS6 or Firehawk models.

The SS models will have slight rubbing on the hood (like the SLP lid) but no issues with closing the hood.

It just seems to be some of the Z28 models that are having troubles. We have some customers that had no issues and two that have had issues.

The nice thing about our lid is that if you get the MAF adapter, you can use it with your stock MAF and then add an 85mm Lid later on when your HP requirements go up.

WS6_Suicide_Machine

iTrader: (6)

Personally, im gonna go with the SLP lid if your pretty much showroom stock. Even if you do the common bolt-ons like Full exhaust, better TB and LS6 or better intake manifold, you wont see a HUGE gain from the bigger lid. Not untill you go with a H/C or even motor swap will it play a larger factor.

For the FTP lid to even work with a near stock setup you have to buy an adapter to fit with the standard LS1 MAF, or fork out more money for the bigger MAF for better flow, but when you change the MAF tuning becomes somewhat of an issue. Now to go through all that just cuz you want a bigger lid on a bolt-on car doesn't seem worth it.

Later on when i either go H/C stroker or full 418 TSP motor swap F%#K YA ill have the FTP 85mm lid, cuz ill just do SD tune to completely be rid of power robbing MAF. so it will just be 85mm lid to 90mm TB.

THIS WAS MY 50th POST!!

YellowToy/A

iTrader: (1)

I did the Fast toys 85 MM lid and new MAF. I was able to see a 1 to 1.5 % gain in my car, with no other change. This was in the high RPMs above 5000. Remimber you HAVE to get a tune.

kirby's hawk

iTrader: (1)

I would and I am going with the 85mm. Even if you your not planing on doing an intake/throttle boby change in the future, you at some point may want to so why spend the money twice. They look pretty good to. IMO, it would just be smarter to go with the bigger one, and buy the adapter, or even fab up your own. (it cant be that hard)

98TransAmNL

Yeah, I was thinking I would get the 85mm lid.....No need of buying the SLP one and then buying the 85 mm one later. I ordered the 85mm lid, FTRA kit, high flow air filter and MAF adaptor. The adaptor was like $8.

Yellowtoy T/A! You mentioned I have to get a tune......I should probably wait until I put on the new catback exhaust and headers I am plannning on getting first though right?

Is the cold air intake hard to install for the average joe? Time frame???

As for HP gains with the cold air intake........I'll only notice this at higher speeds ?

Fast Toys Performance Parts

iTrader: (3)

The air lid takes less than 5 minutes to install. The FTRA kit about 1-2 hours (easier with a second set of hands). If you don't have any aftermarket air lid right now, you will definately notice a difference throughout the rpm band. The FTRA effects are noticeable from about 40 MPH & up.

WS6_Suicide_Machine

iTrader: (6)

Is it possible that you got good results because you have H/C and a good set of bolt-ons? I only chose the SLP lid cuz im close to stock, and a tune wouldn't be necessary with the SLP lid

Well when you think about it you can buy a new SLP lid for 95 bucks, and when you wanna move up to The 85mm you can sell the SLP for 50-75. So in the long run you only lose at most $45. All i was saying is its alot less hassle to go with the SLP if you don't have much done to the car, and when you get the bigger mods and your looking for 1-2 hp in every place, go with the 85mm and get rid of the MAF.

but thats just me. Were all in the chase for better numbers, and im right there with you so

Soul TKR

iTrader: (4)

I'm really liking this new lid... just holdin out for that nice GP :hint hint:

kirby's hawk

iTrader: (1)

Like I said this just my opinion. I wasnt trying to knock yours I was just giving mine.

WS6_Suicide_Machine

iTrader: (6)

ya sorry if i came off argumentative on the topic. whatever you do i wish you the best of luck.

ssgunny

iTrader: (6)

Any mod done to a car requires a tune to get the most out of what it has to offer. When you start doing mods like a larger Delphi MAF then SES lights start glowing and at least a part throttle tune is needed to adjust the fuel trim levels. This will help you car's computer communicate with the MAF, prevent the SES lighting up and improve your gas mileage.

A tune that includes WOT will help get the maximum amount of HP out of the mods. Be prepared to drop around $400 for this type of tune. I will wait till I have headers and ecutout installed before doing a full tune.

ssgunny

iTrader: (6)

The FTRA is a good investment IMHO and its benefit can be felt while at speed and then stabbing the throttle. I did have an issue with fitment and had to pull it back out to round out the holes in order to have the unit shift left about 3/16 of an inch. This was to get the base of the air box to line up with the top of the FTRA unit.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

1 - 2 hours is being generous. once the factory sound box is out of the way for the lid install, seems like the FTRA is a half hour project. 20 minutes if the car is on the lift.

Lid and FTRA are great basic mods.

Shoulder Shaker

iTrader: (36)

I would have to agree that the lid and the FTRA is the best and least expensive mod you can do to a stock car. I picked up 3 tents at the track and 2mph when the car was stock.

Fast Toys Performance Parts

iTrader: (3)

Awesome. Thanks for the feedback!