Rob Hood

Driver's side slipped right in (from the bottom). Did not have to pull the oil filter off (Long K&N). Passenger side was a real pain. Even with the car up in the air (truck jackstands), grinding the tab off, we still had to essentially beat the header in to place. Jacking the engine did not work due to the poly mounts - no movement whatsoever.

Used the Bosch 13111 for the front O2 sensors. Way too much slack in their wiring, but I guess that's ok. The rear sensor wiring reached with no problems (tune/dyno shop would not touch the car without all sensors attached).

I wrapped the primaries with Thermo-tec's header blanket. I put the wrap on the lower sections of the primary piping to prevent the radiated heat from damaging the starter harness and the O2 sensor wiring. I will also slip a Thermo-tec wiring sheath over the sensors soon, as a secondary heat barrier. I had originally intended to wait on installing the wrap but after getting everything reassembled I did not like the proximity of the primary pipes to the starter and O2 wires.

The AIR piping did not line up to the header AIR bracket, and the header AIR bracket was not threaded like the OE manifold. Had to get a longer bolt and nut to fix that.

The clamps supplied to attach the cats and y-pipe worked pretty good, but the dyno shop was able to finish that up with some welding.

The motor mount install mirrored the header install - driver side easy, passenger side painful. It took LOTS of "massaging" to get the passenger side thru-bolt in. I ended up removing the driver's side thru-bolt nut and pulling the bolt back out part-way to allow the engine to be jacked up. However, once it was all said and done, boy does that motor just sit there.

On to the next mod...

bene

iTrader: (16)

The only thing i had to do with my SW headers on the passenger side header I had to unbolt the K member and let it come down for about 1 1/2". After that I slid the passenger header in with out any problems. The headers itself cleared on everything. I didn't use their Y pipe though, I have Bassani true duals.

Rob Hood

Yeah their overall clearance once installed is really nice. Only concern clearance-wise was the starter wiring and the O2 sensor wiring.

Hmm...TDs. Might consider that if I get a cam. How do you like your Bassani setup? Does it weigh more than a normal exhaust setup?

TheSilverOne

iTrader: (22)

with the Bosch 13111's, you have to consider they weren't meant for 4th gen f-bodys. hence all the slack in the wiring.

bene

iTrader: (16)

I'm pretty sure it does. Consist of dual stainless steel 2.5" pipes (mid pipe, over the axle pipes, tail pipes) and dual in | dual out 2.5" chambered muffler. Clearance is awesome though, pretty close to stock configuration. I have pictures of it in exhaust stickies. Check it out.

Rob Hood

Yeah, knew they were for Vette's, just didn't expect that much slack. I almost thought the stock Z sensors would have worked. Will install the Thermo-tec wiring sheaths when I get home this weekend.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

I don't like how close the header is to the wiring either but mine have been that way with no wrap for 4 years now and nothing has burned through. Glad you got it installed man!

Rob Hood

Yeah, thanks for your help too! Appreciate it!

Next up is an oil cooler...and maybe a cam...

HS-Y2kFormula

iTrader: (2)

Just wondering, did you delete your EGR? If not, did you have any interference with the EGR flange and the frame? I assume not, since you didn't mention it in your post, but I thought I would ask anyway.

I had my SW headers installed on my 2000 recently, and the EGR flange is touching the frame by the AC lines. This makes for an unpleasant vibration within the car. I'm going to have to take that header off and reposition the egr flange in order to get it to clear adequately.

Rob Hood

No, didn't delete any emissions equipment. All hooked up including rear O2 sensors. I will check the EGR pipe for interference, as the SW EGR air pipe was not in the same location as the OE manifold. Took some persuasion to get that connected and the SW flange was not threaded, requiring a trip to the parts store for extra nut/bolts. My only real concern now is shimming the DS loop down to gain clearance on the y-pipe to i-pipe connection.

Something else to consider is that if you (and maybe me) are getting that frame interference, that the engine could be reading that as knock and will pull the timing back. I'm getting my tune checked by another tuner to see if that is the case, because I'm still getting some vibration feedback. I think that is however coming from the DS loop/exhaust contact though. But thanks for the EGR pipe info, will look into that.

HS-Y2kFormula

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the response. That EGR issue really aggravates the heck out of me. I honestly don't know how you can get a wrench down there and be able to attach the fitting, especially with it not being threaded. My installer said it was a PITA.

Another thing you might want to keep an eye out for (or ear) is the AIR check valve flutter. I was getting on it this weekend with the windows down and noticed a nasty ticking nose (like an exhaust leak). It only occurred during acceleration. I did not do the restrictor plates, so I am thinking that is what it is. SW says they have never had an issue with this, but I will be doing some experimenting with some restrictor plates to see if I can get rid of the noise.

Take care

Rob Hood

Ok I checked my EGR piping and I have no contact interference. Next is to shim the DS loop.