Full Bolton LS1 HP Rating
02-01-2008, 04:16 PM
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Full Bolton LS1 HP Rating Ok, my friend says that a stock ls1 that puts down close to 300rwhp will only yeild about 30-40 more hp w/ all bolt ons. Obviously there'll be some different power due to different bolt ons, but that's all you get from every single bolt on?
02-01-2008, 06:13 PM
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TECHNICALLY... Heads are a bolt on right?? 
Seriously though, with all the research Ive dont, I do fully believe that with full bolt-ons, including maybe 1.8 rockers, elec. waterpump, GREAT headers, awesome exhaust, etc that an LS1 would possibly be able to hit 400 with a completely dead nuts on tune.
380 is probably a lot easier to attain... To get to the 400 mark would require the absolute perfect combination of parts.
Seriously though, with all the research Ive dont, I do fully believe that with full bolt-ons, including maybe 1.8 rockers, elec. waterpump, GREAT headers, awesome exhaust, etc that an LS1 would possibly be able to hit 400 with a completely dead nuts on tune.
380 is probably a lot easier to attain... To get to the 400 mark would require the absolute perfect combination of parts.
02-02-2008, 02:22 AM
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Dyno makes a difference obviously because of whether or not it's a load dyno that will show you your TRUE number to the wheels. A Mustang, dynomite and a few others are load dynos and show you your real numbers. My bone stock auto put down 303 whp and 312 lb/ft or tq. My friend dynoed his lid and catback M6 on a dynojet(not a loader dyno) and put down 330whp and 340 tq. He put on LT's, ORY, and cutout and his numbers were the same on our dynomite loader dyno. Go to a dynojet to see numbers you want to see. For tuning and real number get on a load dyno...preferably a Mustang dyno.
And also some cars dyno different numbers with the same bolt ons. That's just how it goes. You got dyno queens out there that put down great numbers but at the track they don't produce good results. Don't worry so much about what your numbers are...the numbers at the track are what count.
Alright there's my essay....take what you want from it lol
And also some cars dyno different numbers with the same bolt ons. That's just how it goes. You got dyno queens out there that put down great numbers but at the track they don't produce good results. Don't worry so much about what your numbers are...the numbers at the track are what count.
Alright there's my essay....take what you want from it lol
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02-02-2008, 09:24 AM
#9
Buddy of mine put down 387 with full bolt ons. Stock heads, block, Ported Fast 90/NW 90, stock valvetrain, 3?00 stall, 12 bolt w/3.70s spooled, tuned by Jeff Creech (spelling?)until he went with H/C. The block also had 140,000+ miles at the time. He was running low/mid 7's in the 1/8th at the time which is pretty fricking bad ***. I would have to agree 400 is attainable like SVTHuh says. It would have to be tuned like there is no tomorrow.
02-02-2008, 01:42 PM
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Dyno makes a difference obviously because of whether or not it's a load dyno that will show you your TRUE number to the wheels. A Mustang, dynomite and a few others are load dynos and show you your real numbers. My bone stock auto put down 303 whp and 312 lb/ft or tq. My friend dynoed his lid and catback M6 on a dynojet(not a loader dyno) and put down 330whp and 340 tq. He put on LT's, ORY, and cutout and his numbers were the same on our dynomite loader dyno. Go to a dynojet to see numbers you want to see. For tuning and real number get on a load dyno...preferably a Mustang dyno.
And also some cars dyno different numbers with the same bolt ons. That's just how it goes. You got dyno queens out there that put down great numbers but at the track they don't produce good results. Don't worry so much about what your numbers are...the numbers at the track are what count.
Alright there's my essay....take what you want from it lol
And also some cars dyno different numbers with the same bolt ons. That's just how it goes. You got dyno queens out there that put down great numbers but at the track they don't produce good results. Don't worry so much about what your numbers are...the numbers at the track are what count.
Alright there's my essay....take what you want from it lol
Please stop giving disinformation on this subject and see the other post you made on this subject in the other thread here for my reasoning. Do your homework. The mustang dynos dyno lower beacuse they use the eddie current style measurements, Dynojet offers load bearing dynos, and they show accurate numbers that are higher than those that would be shown on a mustang dyno... Dynapack dynos are a true load bearing dyno (hydraulic load, bolted directly to the hub) and they show accurate numbers that reflect higher power outputs than the mustang dyno as well and are about on par with the dynojets as far as power output measurements. My car was dynoed on a Dynapack dyno and I will guarantee you that if I went to a Dynojet dyno, it would dyno within 10%. Mustang dynos dyno lower, but that doesnt mean that Dynojets and other dynos offer artifically high numbers.
02-02-2008, 03:11 PM
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like everybody else is sayin, it depends on the diff parts and the dyno. something else that makes a big difference that nobody touched on is if the car is an auto or manual. auto's will always have less hp to the wheels. i made the horse power and torque in my sig with all my mods exept for the p&p throttlebody, but mine is an auto. ive been told if i had an m6 it would be around 360-365ish. it just varies on a lot of things
02-02-2008, 05:15 PM
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So if my car went 305 hp and 315 ft lbs on a mustang dyno what would likely my numbers be on a dynojet dyno if mustang numbers are lower ? MTI Lid, open maf ends, free mods, and cut out.......103,000 miles.....305hp, 315 ft lbs @ the wheels
02-03-2008, 05:02 AM
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Auto or M6 car? With those mods, untuned you would probably be looking at around 325-330 in a manual car. Take 15% for an auto.
My car is a manual car and with nothing more than a lid, filter and smooth bellows, I put down 325rwhp/330rwtq, before the tune. With the tune I hit 340rwhp/362rwtq with the same mods. A lot of it boils down to the car itself also, but that should be your ballpark with a M6 car.
My car is a manual car and with nothing more than a lid, filter and smooth bellows, I put down 325rwhp/330rwtq, before the tune. With the tune I hit 340rwhp/362rwtq with the same mods. A lot of it boils down to the car itself also, but that should be your ballpark with a M6 car.
02-03-2008, 11:33 AM
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http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...nd_prices.html
They spent 5,000 and only could get 12.90 in the quarter and 350 rwhp.
They spent 5,000 and only could get 12.90 in the quarter and 350 rwhp.
