Help me get 400 reliable, streetable rwhp...
02-03-2008, 12:39 AM
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Help me get 400 reliable, streetable rwhp... Stock Z28. My goal is to gain 400 whp, daily driven from my house to school, work, play, whatever it is. Cam and heads are a maybe, a long time from now because I want to build the rest of the valvetrain too (valve springs, timing chain, etc.) and a 383 is what I want but thats way in the future.
I've read jrp's sticky but something confuses me...
I've seen some people with the FAST 90/90 intake, do they use the stock 75mm MAF too? Wouldn't that cause an unnecessary restriction, making the 90/90 the same as the LS6 intake?? I was thinking of a Shaner S2/S3 and I guess the Z06 85mm MAF, though I'm not too sure. Or better yet, will I even need it/will it yield enough gains worth my time and money?
-MTI lid, pretty soon... if I can find one. MTI is the original maker of the LSx lid, right?
-FTRA? Wanna hear what you guys think...
-FAST 90/90? Larger MAF?
-Kooks/QTP LTs with a Corsa catback, maybe with a catted y-pipe, cause I live in California. The Blowmasters that came on the car sound real nice, but the resonance at freeway speeds drives me and my passengers crazy
I can only guess how many gains I'll get (extra 40-60 whp?) but I doubt its even close to 400... thats where you guys come in. Bolt-ons aren't really going to kill my streetability afaik, but I want the supporting mods for a cam and/or stroker in the future.
Help me out here... I don't know all that much, mostly learned from search and google.... plus I'm in college and this stuff ain't cheap
Thanks in advance
I've read jrp's sticky but something confuses me...
I've seen some people with the FAST 90/90 intake, do they use the stock 75mm MAF too? Wouldn't that cause an unnecessary restriction, making the 90/90 the same as the LS6 intake?? I was thinking of a Shaner S2/S3 and I guess the Z06 85mm MAF, though I'm not too sure. Or better yet, will I even need it/will it yield enough gains worth my time and money?
-MTI lid, pretty soon... if I can find one. MTI is the original maker of the LSx lid, right?
-FTRA? Wanna hear what you guys think...
-FAST 90/90? Larger MAF?
-Kooks/QTP LTs with a Corsa catback, maybe with a catted y-pipe, cause I live in California. The Blowmasters that came on the car sound real nice, but the resonance at freeway speeds drives me and my passengers crazy
I can only guess how many gains I'll get (extra 40-60 whp?) but I doubt its even close to 400... thats where you guys come in. Bolt-ons aren't really going to kill my streetability afaik, but I want the supporting mods for a cam and/or stroker in the future.
Help me out here... I don't know all that much, mostly learned from search and google.... plus I'm in college and this stuff ain't cheap
Thanks in advance 
02-03-2008, 12:44 AM
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stick with you intake its the LS6 and its fine. Get a lid, there all the same and port the TB. You wont really gain too much with the FTRA or SSRA, save the money. Headers wise you have your choices pacesetter, Kooks, QTP and AR and some others. Im pretty sure that flowmaster isnt flowing anywhere as near as some other mufflers out there. Get your heads ported a little and throw a 224 cam in there and your all done. But if your end desire is to go 383, why even start this buildup?
02-03-2008, 03:39 PM
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In CA you can't change the cats or move them from their stock location, that's why people go with the shorty headers. But people do run LTs in CA, just have to find a place that isn't too thorough on the visual inspection.
Last edited by massls1guy; 02-03-2008 at 03:39 PM. Reason: typo
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02-03-2008, 08:17 PM
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it would be hard to get 400 with just boltons so im going to say just wait till you can put together a h/c setup w/ supporting mods or you could always go with some juice just get ready to be replacing alot of stuff
02-04-2008, 08:42 AM
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I make exactly 400rwhp, extremely reliable and daily driveable, although I have another daily driver. Here's my setup:
2002 Z28 M6
Pacesetters LTs, Pacesetter ORY, Magnaflow catback
Underdrive pulley, SLP Cold Air, Lid, and smooth bellow
224/228 .581/.588 113 LSA comp cam
Super cheap milled/ported Patriot LS6 heads (243 castings, $995/pair)
Put down the power THROUGH a 3.5" aluminum driveshaft and Moser 12-bolt with 4.10s
Yes, it's a mild H/C as far as H/C setups go, but for the price and the fact that it's going through that drivetrain setup, anyone looking for 400 VERY streetable rwhp would be extremely pleased.
2002 Z28 M6
Pacesetters LTs, Pacesetter ORY, Magnaflow catback
Underdrive pulley, SLP Cold Air, Lid, and smooth bellow
224/228 .581/.588 113 LSA comp cam
Super cheap milled/ported Patriot LS6 heads (243 castings, $995/pair)
Put down the power THROUGH a 3.5" aluminum driveshaft and Moser 12-bolt with 4.10s
Yes, it's a mild H/C as far as H/C setups go, but for the price and the fact that it's going through that drivetrain setup, anyone looking for 400 VERY streetable rwhp would be extremely pleased.
02-04-2008, 11:42 PM
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02-06-2008, 08:31 AM
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400 rwhp is very obtainable, and probably the smartest thing i have seen a newbie say on this forum. most are like a want a 1000RWHP (i.e. see 900RWHP thread on external engine section), so cheers. Ok, heres what ya do. (in this order)
lid
LTs: (Pacesetters are fine)
SFCS: (Please do this as one of your first mods, makes all the difference in the world)
Cat back: Your choice, wont make a big difference.
TB (shaner is fine)
Best bet is to keep intake. The 90/90 is not much of a benifit unless you get a good set of heads and a medium sized cam. you only need a small cam.
cam/stall: 224/224, match the stall to the cam.
UDP
This will get you 380 or so. Buying heads is the next step, but this should make you happy until you go w/ the 383. Would not recommend you buy heads until you know where you are going with the 383. i.e. if you go FI (lower compression) or with a ls7 the heads you will have to switch them out.
lid
LTs: (Pacesetters are fine)
SFCS: (Please do this as one of your first mods, makes all the difference in the world)
Cat back: Your choice, wont make a big difference.
TB (shaner is fine)
Best bet is to keep intake. The 90/90 is not much of a benifit unless you get a good set of heads and a medium sized cam. you only need a small cam.
cam/stall: 224/224, match the stall to the cam.
UDP
This will get you 380 or so. Buying heads is the next step, but this should make you happy until you go w/ the 383. Would not recommend you buy heads until you know where you are going with the 383. i.e. if you go FI (lower compression) or with a ls7 the heads you will have to switch them out.
02-06-2008, 04:48 PM
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400 rwhp is very obtainable, and probably the smartest thing i have seen a newbie say on this forum. most are like a want a 1000RWHP (i.e. see 900RWHP thread on external engine section), so cheers. Ok, heres what ya do. (in this order)
lid
LTs: (Pacesetters are fine)
SFCS: (Please do this as one of your first mods, makes all the difference in the world)
Cat back: Your choice, wont make a big difference.
TB (shaner is fine)
Best bet is to keep intake. The 90/90 is not much of a benifit unless you get a good set of heads and a medium sized cam. you only need a small cam.
cam/stall: 224/224, match the stall to the cam.
UDP
This will get you 380 or so. Buying heads is the next step, but this should make you happy until you go w/ the 383. Would not recommend you buy heads until you know where you are going with the 383. i.e. if you go FI (lower compression) or with a ls7 the heads you will have to switch them out.
lid
LTs: (Pacesetters are fine)
SFCS: (Please do this as one of your first mods, makes all the difference in the world)
Cat back: Your choice, wont make a big difference.
TB (shaner is fine)
Best bet is to keep intake. The 90/90 is not much of a benifit unless you get a good set of heads and a medium sized cam. you only need a small cam.
cam/stall: 224/224, match the stall to the cam.
UDP
This will get you 380 or so. Buying heads is the next step, but this should make you happy until you go w/ the 383. Would not recommend you buy heads until you know where you are going with the 383. i.e. if you go FI (lower compression) or with a ls7 the heads you will have to switch them out.
Just curious, how do SFCs (subframe connectors?) make all the difference? I know they stiffen your chassis, but I had to take my SLP SFC off and I cant tell anything has changed.
02-06-2008, 05:00 PM
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Really???? You couldn't tell at all?? Were they weld-in? I thought it the car felt way stiffer. Maybe it was just a mental thing, but I could tell a big difference. Anyhow, eliminating chasis flex/twist makes it a smart mod anyhow.
