What do I torque the intake manifold to?
02-07-2008, 10:21 AM
#2
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I'll let someone else chime in with the exact torque numbers, but I remember it not being much... Definitely don't overtighten becaue you can crack the manifold..
02-07-2008, 11:26 AM
#8
From Tony:
"Its no different than swapping a factory piece. The only thing that is a must is to replace all the valley pan OEM 10 mm head bolts with the shallow button head hardware FAST provides. Hook up vacuum lines in the same place....MAP sensor pops in the back just like OEM, etc. etc. Install and tighten/snug down from the center and work your way out. By the time you finish the ends the middle will be loose and you start all over. Dont try torquing it down tight in one shot....there are a lot of gaskets to compress and its better done over 3-4 go arounds getting progressively tighter each time. When there all pretty tight I go over it one more time....I dont use a torque wrench (although you could) but I make them reasonably tight....there is alot of thread engagement so no worries there. If I had to guess I would say about 20-25 ft lbs. You dont have to kill it obviously....but make it tight (helps to straighten any warped intake flanges and the FAST intakes I have seen have quite a "kick" in them sometimes).
Install TB and your good to go....have fun getting those bottom nuts behind the flange....I install steel thread inserts in all the manifolds I work on. Makes installation and removal a breeze....you might want to do the same now or at a later date.
Good luck....its really no big deal.
Tony"
"Its no different than swapping a factory piece. The only thing that is a must is to replace all the valley pan OEM 10 mm head bolts with the shallow button head hardware FAST provides. Hook up vacuum lines in the same place....MAP sensor pops in the back just like OEM, etc. etc. Install and tighten/snug down from the center and work your way out. By the time you finish the ends the middle will be loose and you start all over. Dont try torquing it down tight in one shot....there are a lot of gaskets to compress and its better done over 3-4 go arounds getting progressively tighter each time. When there all pretty tight I go over it one more time....I dont use a torque wrench (although you could) but I make them reasonably tight....there is alot of thread engagement so no worries there. If I had to guess I would say about 20-25 ft lbs. You dont have to kill it obviously....but make it tight (helps to straighten any warped intake flanges and the FAST intakes I have seen have quite a "kick" in them sometimes).
Install TB and your good to go....have fun getting those bottom nuts behind the flange....I install steel thread inserts in all the manifolds I work on. Makes installation and removal a breeze....you might want to do the same now or at a later date.
Good luck....its really no big deal.
Tony"
02-08-2008, 01:55 PM
#11
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Technically that is correct. The problem is that torque wrenches are frequently inaccurate at the top and bottom of their ranges. With just two bolts you are probably better off feeling how tight they are instead of messing with a ft lb torque wrench.
02-09-2008, 08:49 AM
#12
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After chasing a miss, and hesitation, it turned out to be a leaking intake... I had to tighten them up by feel, going over and over them until it was tight... Be careful with the stock bolts, you can break them, ask me how I know...
Get good bolts, and tighten them up, going all around 10 times, if you have to.. Good luck.
Get good bolts, and tighten them up, going all around 10 times, if you have to.. Good luck.
