CAI vs LID
03-18-2008, 02:38 PM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: indian head, maryland
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
CAI vs LID well i see alot of people say they are running lids well i was wonder what the difference is between a lid and a regular k&n intake system. i was lookin to buy an intake but i see most people running lids. is there some advantage to them other then the price?
03-18-2008, 02:47 PM
#2
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 504
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A lid and free ram air kit, SSRA FTRA and other are the way to go for the best gains be careful with the KN not to over oil it as it will gunk up your maf.
But dont take my word for it if you try a serch you can see that this topic has been brought up 100000000000 x's
But dont take my word for it if you try a serch you can see that this topic has been brought up 100000000000 x's
03-18-2008, 04:04 PM
#4
11 Second Club
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 926
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do a lid...Its cheaper and will net the same gains as a K&N. But if you like K&N's look and want something thats cool as hell look for the Volant intakes.
03-18-2008, 05:06 PM
#5
A lid and free ram air kit, SSRA FTRA and other are the way to go for the best gains be careful with the KN not to over oil it as it will gunk up your maf.
But dont take my word for it if you try a serch you can see that this topic has been brought up 100000000000 x's
But dont take my word for it if you try a serch you can see that this topic has been brought up 100000000000 x's
...
anyway, go with a lid and FTRA (or SSRA), best gains available
Trending Topics
03-19-2008, 04:50 AM
#8
TECH Addict
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: The dirty taint of the country. ...Los Angeles
Posts: 2,498
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
2 Posts
...See thats why I love the fact that I have a WS.6. I made my hood functional and I don't ever have to worry about going through large puddles or gravel and road salt get'n in there from the path thats made by the CAI mod to the air box.
03-19-2008, 08:02 AM
#9
Haha, you guys drive your cars in the rain???!!!! I'll admit I've been caught a few times, but I just get careful and watch out for puddles. I have the SLP lid and SLP Cold-air. Works well for me. If your car is a daily driver and is in the rain on a regular basis, you may want to stay away from the cold-air setup. Water in your engine probably isn't worth the extra couple horsepower up top.
03-19-2008, 09:09 PM
#12
Yeah i searched it and it sure looks cool. Some guy even reported gains over an aftermarket lid....? Im not sure how much it would dyno over stock but it sure looks cool. The only thing that isnt cool is the 250 bucks to buy one!
03-19-2008, 09:43 PM
#13
03-19-2008, 10:40 PM
#16
Definitely stick with a lid and FTRA over a K&N FIPK system. The K&N system is just breathing hot underhood air which = less HP. Every 10 degree F you drop the intake temp is about 1 % more HP on a normally aspirate application. You can imagine how hot it can get under the hood and do the math yourself.
If you have a WS6 car, we do sell the JAAM kit to seal the hood to the intake and make it functional. For all the other models of car, the FTRA will work great.
If you have a WS6 car, we do sell the JAAM kit to seal the hood to the intake and make it functional. For all the other models of car, the FTRA will work great.
03-20-2008, 11:06 AM
#18
If you don't care about the hood and want slightly better performance over the JAAM kit, go with the FTRA.
Thanks
03-20-2008, 11:27 AM
#19
TECH Regular
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Antioch, Ca
Posts: 416
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Haha, you guys drive your cars in the rain???!!!! I'll admit I've been caught a few times, but I just get careful and watch out for puddles. I have the SLP lid and SLP Cold-air. Works well for me. If your car is a daily driver and is in the rain on a regular basis, you may want to stay away from the cold-air setup. Water in your engine probably isn't worth the extra couple horsepower up top.
The whole "straw" effect is a misnomer. You'd hafta run into a puddle large enough to completely submerge the air dam and FTRA inlet. hitting a puddle that big would dramamtically cause you to slow down, and you would instantly lose the vacuum effect. You cant drive (or at least shouldn't be driving) your car fast enough for water to A) jump 2 or more feet vertically and then B) completely saturate the filter and THEN C) turn 90* and shove itself through the MAF screen, bellows, and TB into your intake. And if you are driving fast enough for that to happen, driving that fast into a puddle large enough to cause that to happen is the very, very least of your issues; especially if there's any traffic or curbs or obstacles around you.
-And as for dirt/rocks. That's what a filter is for. I cant say that i've had anything fly past my filter.
03-20-2008, 11:42 AM
#20
It really isnt that bad. I've been DD'ing my car for three years now in Northern California, and the rain can get pretty bad. I constantly have to drive on the freeway in storms, I've hit some pretty big puddles with my car at speeds from 20-65mph, and my FTRA + Lid combo has never sucked up any water.
The whole "straw" effect is a misnomer. You'd hafta run into a puddle large enough to completely submerge the air dam and FTRA inlet. hitting a puddle that big would dramamtically cause you to slow down, and you would instantly lose the vacuum effect. You cant drive (or at least shouldn't be driving) your car fast enough for water to A) jump 2 or more feet vertically and then B) completely saturate the filter and THEN C) turn 90* and shove itself through the MAF screen, bellows, and TB into your intake. And if you are driving fast enough for that to happen, driving that fast into a puddle large enough to cause that to happen is the very, very least of your issues; especially if there's any traffic or curbs or obstacles around you.
-And as for dirt/rocks. That's what a filter is for. I cant say that i've had anything fly past my filter.
The whole "straw" effect is a misnomer. You'd hafta run into a puddle large enough to completely submerge the air dam and FTRA inlet. hitting a puddle that big would dramamtically cause you to slow down, and you would instantly lose the vacuum effect. You cant drive (or at least shouldn't be driving) your car fast enough for water to A) jump 2 or more feet vertically and then B) completely saturate the filter and THEN C) turn 90* and shove itself through the MAF screen, bellows, and TB into your intake. And if you are driving fast enough for that to happen, driving that fast into a puddle large enough to cause that to happen is the very, very least of your issues; especially if there's any traffic or curbs or obstacles around you.
-And as for dirt/rocks. That's what a filter is for. I cant say that i've had anything fly past my filter.
Great summary! It takes a rare set of circumstances for your motor to be damaged and a VERY deep puddle that would immerse the bottom of the kid. Keep in mind that ONLY our kit also includes a block off plate that you can put on to disable the kit if you think you will be driving in some horrible storm. With the block off plate installed, water cannot come up through the duct and your car breathes exactly the same as stock.