Poly Mount install tips/pics?
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Poly Mount install tips/pics?
Gonna be putting on poly mounts pretty soon and was wondering if any of u guys have any tips or pics from your install. Also should i do one side at a time or pull both mounts off install them to the block then try to line both through bolts through the mounts? Thanks guys i will have all of the exhaust off the car at the same time i do the mounts.
#4
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 1,259
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You will know why there aren't any pics once you do it. Things are very tight in there and if you leave your headers on your working by feel alot of the time since you can't see the bolt your going after at the same time your hand is in there, which is what most people do. If I had it to do over again I would probably at least take the headers loose. Since you will have yours off it shouldn't be nearly as bad. I only did the driver's side btw.
#6
On The Tree
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not all that bad of a job (with the manifolds/headers off), just a little time consuming.
I went one side at a time. Wasn't too difficult to line them back up at all. Nailed it on the second one I did. Managed to have the engine supported perfectly with the jack. I could tell because the large bolt was spinning very easily as I was removing it. Pulled it out, unbolted the clamshell, did my thing... then put it all back together. The large bolt went RIGHT in, no problem.
Other than that piece of advice, the write-up's you'll find here should be all you need.
I went one side at a time. Wasn't too difficult to line them back up at all. Nailed it on the second one I did. Managed to have the engine supported perfectly with the jack. I could tell because the large bolt was spinning very easily as I was removing it. Pulled it out, unbolted the clamshell, did my thing... then put it all back together. The large bolt went RIGHT in, no problem.
Other than that piece of advice, the write-up's you'll find here should be all you need.
#7
TECH Resident
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Sully, Iowa
Posts: 764
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think its easier to do one side at a time. You will need to drill out the rivets on the clam shells so you can pry the rubber mount out thats kind of a pita, but there out of the car then so ya. Then put the poly mount in bolt the clamshells togather and put them back in the car. The A/C pump will need to come off and be pushed forward and same with the alternator so you can slide the blots out. Here are some pictures after they are installed. I don't know if this really helps but here is what it should look like when they are done.
Trending Topics
#12
On The Tree
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm running Corvette mounts on my setup. Has anyone used Poly mounts on a Vette? Do they sit the engine at the same height etc? How much movement do they have compared to stock?
Thanks
Michael
Thanks
Michael
#18
Launching!
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 208
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here's the post I made after I finished my mounts:
Hope this helps! I have no floorboard banging and no added vibration inside the car. Also, it made launching feel a lot better. It's a big pain in the ***, but I've found no bad side effects to the install and many benefits. Good luck!
Finally finished mounts! My cliff notes:
-Writeup is great!
-I completely removed the alternator, alternator bracket, A/C compressor (set aside on the swaybar), both idlers and brackets by the A/C compressor, and all of the exhaust (doing headers at the same time).
-The bolts were torqued to hell from the clamshell to the block. It was a royal bitch breaking those loose because we couldnt really fit our air tools back there
-Clamshell rivets were pretty stout. We had to sharpen the drillbit a couple of times to get through.
-The poly mounts actually fill the whole clamshell unlike my old rubber ones that looked like hell
-Getting the clamshells bolted back to the block was pretty easy, we just jacked the motor pretty high.
-The biggest pain in the *** was realigning the motor to get the long 18mm bolts through each mount. Me and some buddys pryed with all our might, jockeying the jack up and down and trying to hammer the bolts in but nothing seemed to be working. We could get one but then the other was off by about 1/4 to 1/2 an inch. I finally decided to grind the driver side bolt to a point and with a little prying and hammering she finally went in nicely.
I'd have to say the biggest lifesaver in this install was 13mm ratcheting wrenches and socket U-Joints and extensions. Also grinding that bolt is a MUST!
Overall, it was a big pain but we'll see how she feels when I finally fire it up. I still have to install the headers but that seems like a breeze compared to the mounts. Hope this helps anyone about to take on this bear of a task!
-Writeup is great!
-I completely removed the alternator, alternator bracket, A/C compressor (set aside on the swaybar), both idlers and brackets by the A/C compressor, and all of the exhaust (doing headers at the same time).
-The bolts were torqued to hell from the clamshell to the block. It was a royal bitch breaking those loose because we couldnt really fit our air tools back there
-Clamshell rivets were pretty stout. We had to sharpen the drillbit a couple of times to get through.
-The poly mounts actually fill the whole clamshell unlike my old rubber ones that looked like hell
-Getting the clamshells bolted back to the block was pretty easy, we just jacked the motor pretty high.
-The biggest pain in the *** was realigning the motor to get the long 18mm bolts through each mount. Me and some buddys pryed with all our might, jockeying the jack up and down and trying to hammer the bolts in but nothing seemed to be working. We could get one but then the other was off by about 1/4 to 1/2 an inch. I finally decided to grind the driver side bolt to a point and with a little prying and hammering she finally went in nicely.
I'd have to say the biggest lifesaver in this install was 13mm ratcheting wrenches and socket U-Joints and extensions. Also grinding that bolt is a MUST!
Overall, it was a big pain but we'll see how she feels when I finally fire it up. I still have to install the headers but that seems like a breeze compared to the mounts. Hope this helps anyone about to take on this bear of a task!
#19
TECH Resident
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 885
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not anymore, I am done modding it and time to put my money into the LS1 now. It already has
K&N
Longtubes w/ x pipe
Magnaflow dumps
King Cobra clutch kit
Steeda shifter
4.30 gears with a TA Girdle
FRPP B springs
HPM SFC's
Maximum Motorsport LCA's
FRPP aluminum d/s w/ lakewood d/s loop
SCT Tune
K&N
Longtubes w/ x pipe
Magnaflow dumps
King Cobra clutch kit
Steeda shifter
4.30 gears with a TA Girdle
FRPP B springs
HPM SFC's
Maximum Motorsport LCA's
FRPP aluminum d/s w/ lakewood d/s loop
SCT Tune
#20
TECH Resident
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 885
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here's the post I made after I finished my mounts:
Hope this helps! I have no floorboard banging and no added vibration inside the car. Also, it made launching feel a lot better. It's a big pain in the ***, but I've found no bad side effects to the install and many benefits. Good luck!
Hope this helps! I have no floorboard banging and no added vibration inside the car. Also, it made launching feel a lot better. It's a big pain in the ***, but I've found no bad side effects to the install and many benefits. Good luck!