LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

I haven't really been too happy with the performance of my car since I did heads/cam/LTs/TDs - I went from a 12.70@112 with a catback, my FAST intake, a lid, and 3.90 gears to a 12.44@116 with the addition of ported heads, TR224 cam, Hooker LT's and TSP True dual exhaust. I should have gained more than 4 mph with all of those things. Well, I checked some things out yesterday and found that when my gas pedal is floored, there was a 1/8"-1/4" gap between the stop on the linkage and the stop on the TB itself. Is that enough to cause a significant loss of power? I readjusted it so it's correct now, but it's been like that for a long time now, apparently.

MikeG

iTrader: (33)

Well, what matters more is that the TB was opening fully. Did you check that? You don't want it to open too much or too little.

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

No, it was not opening fully. Against the stop was 90°, so it was prob around 80-85°.

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

As long as you are getting into power enrichment voltage it should be fine.

Getting any knock? Maybe something hitting?

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

No, the cable was just out of adjustment. It's not knocking at all.

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

I mean like floor or something your knock sensor could be picking up retarding timing

teke184

iTrader: (5)

i've had the same problem with my car.

i first noticed it after i had the cam installed. it was run like that on the dyno.

i often wondered how much that affected the (somewhat) low dyno numbers i got (382/375).

the way i see it, is if a ported TB can yield 5-10hp....the restriction that the throttle blade causes when opened 10-15* less could be significant.

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

It made a pretty big change in my car. My best previously was 12.44@115.93 with a 1.85 60' time. Last night I ran and it went 12.43@116.59 with a 1.97 60' time and 12.47@117.15 with a 2.06 60' time. The lack of WOT was definitely killing power by at least 10 HP.

TheSilverOne

iTrader: (22)

how's your tune?

strokerblackhawk

iTrader: (4)

thats what iwas thinking you need that thing dyno tuned. with those trap speeds you should be low 12 high 11's with a good 60 ft

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, it's only got a mail order tune, so it's not optimal. The closest place to get a dyno tune is 200 miles away, so it's going to cost me a minimum of $650 to have it done, with fuel costs, etc. I'm swapping heads this winter, so I figured it would be best to wait until spring to have it done. If it would hook off the line and I could get a 1.6 60' time, it'd probably run 11's. I'm in the 12.40's with 2.0 60's. Still on a weak 10 bolt though and a stock clutch, so I'd rather not blow it up.

blown03mustang

i hate to say it but until you get a dyno tune your car wont run to its full potential so your best bet is to spend that 650! the mail order tunes will hold you over until you can get it on the dyno. You wouldnt beleive the difference goin from untuned/mail order tune to a dyno tune. i think you could hit 11s with a dyno tune but i could be wrong

by the way what tires are u runnin? how hard are you launching it off the line?

teke184

iTrader: (5)

i think he knows that.....he said he was swapping heads in a few months...

so why spend $650 twice??


i'd really like to see what mine is making after fixing the glitches from the cam install.

although i've done more since then so who knows what did what

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

I'm running nittos and launching around 3200 RPM. It's as safe as I can be with the stock clutch and rearend. I know the tune isn't the best now, but the car is going to be going up for the winter in a month or two and will be modded during that time. Dropping a lot of cash to drive the car for a month or so isn't really a good idea, you know? Once I get a rearend and a clutch in this thing along with some M/Ts, it'll be in the 11's easy.