dankl

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys,

First off, this car is going to be a street warrior. It will see the track sometimes, but mostly going to a daily driven street machine.

I was planning on doing a 418 Stroker on a LQ9 with a 4.030" X 4.100". I have done plenty of searching, but have not come up with the answers. Is a 4.100" Stroke too long? Should I back it down to 4.000" and do the 408 Stroker (I think 4.030" X 4.000" is a 408)?

I think I read on somewhere that going over 4.000" Stroke is not a good choice for these motors. I would really like some good information from some people who know about Stroker Motors. This will be my first, and hopefully last for this car, so I want to get it right the first time and save some serious $$$.

Also, trying to determine a good DD cam for either the 418 Stroker or the 408 Stroker.

Also, up for any other Bore X Stroke combinations that have been proven to work well in the 6.0 Iron block (LQ9).

Thanks everyone,
Matt

PowerShift408

iTrader: (44)

Only time I have seen people recommend to stay with a 4'' stroke or less is when you add some boost to the equation.

I had 2 cams spec'd to me awhile back, one for nitrous and one for N/A. If you're interested, I can send you a sheet for either one of them.

black 99

iTrader: (1)

Hey man,
I just dropped off my 6.0 iron block off at the machine shop to get it bored and balanced. I personally am going to go with a 370 forged bottom end build. I am going with that because it is the most cost effective for me and I am doing a twin turbo and nitrous build. Plus if something goes wrong I have alot of bore left to go even larger and not have to worry about too much. Good luck on your build Jason

novaflash2002

iTrader: (51)

with a stroke that is 4'' long, the piston on bdc sets out alote. that lets the piston rock, and scuffs it. for a street engine if you were to stay with the stock crank, you would loose a little tq and the hp would be further up in the rpm range. but you would not loose longivity of the engine.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

4" stroke is fine, just go with that. 10ci isn't really worth the potential problems of a 4.100" stroke. Except for the LS7, there isn't really enough sleeve to support a piston at the bottom of a 4.100" stroke. The piston guys have come up with some trick cam/barrel profiles on the pistons to help, but it isn't worth it, IMO. Whichever you go with, good luck with it.

racer7088

I have done several 418s but I have my own piston for that which is more money and again not so good for any power adders. Like KCS said it may or may not be worth it to you. A custom piston is about 250 more or so.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

We offer said 418 stroker
You cam choice will be based on a few factors, weight, gears, tires, stall?, few differetn factors go into the cam specs. We can help with both aspects.
The 418 will not be a power adder engine, we rceommend it for n/a use only.

dankl

iTrader: (1)

^^^Thanks everyone.

I think since this is going to be mostly a street car, the longer stroke (4.100") may be a good thing to bring torque up and keep horsepower in a usuable range. I don't want to spin it 6500-7000 RPM just to see power.

The engine will stay N/A, with the possibility of a 150-250 shot. Still contemplating the NOS.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

LOL, n/a means no n2o so you need to decide that before you go on. If you want to spay then go with a 408. HP will be about the same maybe little less tq than the 418 potential.

dankl

iTrader: (1)

Where can I get a custom forged rotating assembly? I need pistons with a -10cc dish to get my SCR at around 11.4:1 with these damn 59cc heads. Any suggestions?

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

I can set you up with one, I'll pm you.

LSPerformance

iTrader: (23)

Your one of the few that get it, it's surprising how many seem to pick a favorite number (418,454,etc.), then buy parts to make it happen, with no regard to cylinder length, piston skirt length, or skirt barrel design.

valiant65

What about rod/stroke ratio? When changing from 3.622 to 4.000 rod ratio falls from 1.69 to 1.53. If that tells you something, then the choose is easy: stock stroke is the way to go.

dankl

iTrader: (1)

And 1.494 rod ratio with the 4.100" Stroke...

Your point being? Where should the ratio be? Is it that much worse to have a 1.494 vs. 1.531 rod ratio? Just looking for some reasoning for your statement.

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

408 Rotating Assemblies

racer7088

I would generally say that rod to stroke ratio is meaningless. If anything with todays heads the worse the ratio the better the performance it seems just like in engine masters.

dankl

iTrader: (1)

Texas Speed is trying so hard to sell me their 408...

I keep telling you guys I needed a rotating assembly for a 4.030"B X 4.100"S, with a -10cc dish piston, or close to it. Please stop posting on all my threads links to your 408's. I have told you, and someone else from there, that I am not interested in this. I do appreciate your trying to help, but you are not helping at this point...


Anyways, I have found what I needed locally. It is only another $210 for a custom rotating assembly, so that is what I'm doing. I'll keep you all posted on results when it is finally complete and dyno'd.

dankl

iTrader: (1)

That's good to hear for me, but completely contradictory of the post about rod ratio. I hope you are right, as I am set on doing the 4.100" stroke to give me a little more torque down low for my street set-up. I should still be able to pull very hard up top too with a good custom camshaft grind.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

You can trust what racer7088 says

dankl

iTrader: (1)

^^^Good to know. I didn't even think about "rod ratio" before that post mentioned it. Just looking at the 3 ratio's, the big difference is when you go from stock to the 4.000" stroke. So I don't think the 4.100" stroke affects it too much more. The ratios seem to show that.