Quick vavetrain question about the Torquer V3
#1
Quick vavetrain question about the Torquer V3
I am looking at using this cam on my 00 WS6 m6 weekend warrior. I hear it is pretty hard on the vavletrain and I plan on keeping my stock heads. I know its suggested to get valvespings and hardened pushrods but should I also replace the rocker arms? What springs would be best for a budget build. I know I should get hardened pushrods, should I go with stock length? As far as rocker arms, what ones should I get? I hear that clearance is really close if you are running stock heads and that an aftermarket set of rocker arms can push you over the edge? Is tis true? I basically just need to know everything I need to do with the vavletrain to ensure it will hold up to the fairly large cam for a few years of driving. I am a complete newb at internal engine stuff, so help me understand this whole thing a little better.
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with the size of the Tq V3 it is a must you do the supporting valve train mods to ensure safety and reliability.This is what i got on my car with the Torquer v2
Prc dual springs rated to .660 lift
New locks and Retainers
Harden pushrods
As far as rocker arms stay with the stockers.The only time i have seen ppl change them out was when running smaller cams.I don't see the benefit in them on a cam like the torquer v3.With stock heads and a stock gasket i think a 7.4 push rod length would be sufficient.
Prc dual springs rated to .660 lift
New locks and Retainers
Harden pushrods
As far as rocker arms stay with the stockers.The only time i have seen ppl change them out was when running smaller cams.I don't see the benefit in them on a cam like the torquer v3.With stock heads and a stock gasket i think a 7.4 push rod length would be sufficient.
#4
Do not get after market rockers, if you go 1.8 you will not have any PTV clearence.Stay withthe stock rocker arms. You should buy the cam package from TSP with the springs, push rods and seals. I have the 7.4s but I have heard since that the 7.425s might be better for this cam. Mine runs like a beast and I love it. I would never say that it is the best cam but I have nothing bad to say about it. With this cam and an under drive pulley i picked up 72rwhp and a good second in the 1/4 mile.
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If you are going with the T3, get the kit from Texas Speed. It has all the necessary components you will need for your swap. Basically everything that LS1CHRIS listed in his post. Dont forget the gaskets, a timing chain, and since you are in there...an new oil pump.
I ran the T3 for 2 years. I liked it alot, but when I did my head swap I decided to tone it down a bit and went with the 228r.
R/
Frat
I ran the T3 for 2 years. I liked it alot, but when I did my head swap I decided to tone it down a bit and went with the 228r.
R/
Frat
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#8
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I will tell you why to consider the Yella Terra rocker arms. The stock rockers have a very wide wipe pattern with stock lift. Increase the lift and the pattern increases in width. Couple that with much stronger springs and you have accelerated valve guide wear. With the YT's, correctly set up and shimmed (not thrown in) you can minimize wear and have much better valve train geometry. I also found I couldn't get my stock rockers to provide an adequate wipe pattern even when I shimmed them.
#9
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I will tell you why to consider the Yella Terra rocker arms. The stock rockers have a very wide wipe pattern with stock lift. Increase the lift and the pattern increases in width. Couple that with much stronger springs and you have accelerated valve guide wear. With the YT's, correctly set up and shimmed (not thrown in) you can minimize wear and have much better valve train geometry. I also found I couldn't get my stock rockers to provide an adequate wipe pattern even when I shimmed them.
I understand the issue with the softer aftermarket bronze guides but didn't know it was a problem in the OEM ductile iron guides.
Obviously prefect geometry is better in any setup but thought the OEM was kinda setup to cover a wide range and be somewhat forgiving.
I am on this site to learn so please enlighten me to other knowledgde you have to share on the subject
Thanks
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I ran the torquer 3 in my old camaro with stage 2 heads. I loved it also. Cna't beat the sound of the idle on it and it runs like a beast through the entire RPM range. I am on the fence on wether to use it again or not. I talked to Jason 98ta from Texas speed and he said he has seen the torquer v3 ran with their prc double vavle springs that come on the stage 2.5 5.3 heads for 50,000 miles and they were still good. What makes the torquer v.3 cam so hard on valve train parts? I am looking for a cam I can leave in for quite a few miles because my ss camaro only has 54,000 on it now and I don't plan on swapping any thing oout on it for a few years after the heads and cam install. I am also installing their 2.5 5.3 heads at the same time with new ls7 lifter, mellings oil pump, hardened push rods ls2 timming chain.
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I understand the issue with the softer aftermarket bronze guides but didn't know it was a problem in the OEM ductile iron guides.
Obviously prefect geometry is better in any setup but thought the OEM was kinda setup to cover a wide range and be somewhat forgiving.
I am on this site to learn so please enlighten me to other knowledgde you have to share on the subject
Thanks
Obviously prefect geometry is better in any setup but thought the OEM was kinda setup to cover a wide range and be somewhat forgiving.
I am on this site to learn so please enlighten me to other knowledgde you have to share on the subject
Thanks
A stock GM rocker opens the valve just like a rocking chair, moving from the intake side of the head to the exhaust side, without any real movement between the two, working like two gears meshing together if that makes sense, or just like how a rocking chair "rocks" on the floor. From .550" lift on it actually pulls the rocker arm backwards across the valve tip scrubbing the end of the rocker arm into the valve tip, this is where valve tip and valve guide wear stem from. I have seen the stock rocker drawn in CAD that could be put in motion and it works beautiful until .550" lift, from there on it looks scary.
I spent two days trying to get a good wipe on my Dart heads, finally just gave up. You are correct, the ductile iron guides will be less prone to wear, but the wipe pattern will still be an issue and shimming the stockers is not easy. I am somewhat mystified that the aftermarket vendors haven't come up with shims for the stock setup, a lot of guys run them and it would seem that there would be a good market for these if available.