drewwrxrogers

Well, basically I have been gathering parts since I bought my SS a couple months ago and I am trying to make up my mind on if I want to do the build now since it's winter or wait til the weather begins to warm up again. Chances are, as soon as the money is there for the tune afterwards I will go ahead and do it

Anyway, I am just over looking everything and crossing my T's. I want to do this right and make sure I got a pretty stout setup that can make some nice power to the ground. I have everything from LCA's, PHB, ATQ Arms, and Hotch susp....! I have the 10-bolt but I do have a nice cover, girdle, pressure bolts, saftey loop, and am about to do some welding for support. Not to mention I am running a 3800 Vig Stalled Auto with a nice shift kit. So overall the car is ready for power...Headers, Borla exhaust, ect.

Here is what I have and what my plans are. I would really like to see what you guys think of this setup and what could maybe strenghthen it or help make better results for not much extra money if anything. I am a pretty set on what I am doing but ideas are welcome. DETAILS DETAILS DETAILS...clearance....Power guesses...TIMES..anything! Thanks I will be running stock LS1 intake with some simple porting til I can buy a FAST 90/90 way later down the road.

HERE IS EVERYTHING I CAN THINK OF....

-Granatelli mass airflow sensor
-SLP air box lid
-K&N air filter
-160 degree thermostat
-Walbro inline 255lph secondary fuelpump
-Stock transmission w/shift kit
-TCS Vigilante 3600-3800 stall torque converter
-B&M transmission cooler
-Hooker headers
-Borla Cat Back system
-Traction control bypass
-ARP RODBOLTS
-7.4 MANLY PUSHRODS
-P&P TB w/bypass
-COMP CUSTOM GRIND 235-240-600-609 111.5 lobe cam
-COMP 918 SPRINGS
-STOCK LS1 CASTINGS THAT HAVE BEEN CNC'ED AT CNC CYLINDER HEADS OUT OF FLORIDA BEFORE HE SHUT DOWN. SUPPOSED TO BE SOME HUGE FLOWING NUMBERS AND THE REVIEWS WERE PRETTY IMPRESSIVE!

Suspension and underneath components
-Koni adjustable shocks and struts
-Hotchkis front and rear lowering springs
-Hotchkis lower control arms
-Suspension Techniques front and rear sway bars
-Randon Technologies adjustable torque arm
-Randon Technologies adjustable pan hard bar
-BMR lower control arm relocation brackets
-All suspension components have been replaced with Polyurethane bushings
-Kenny Brown Double Diamond sub-frame connectors
-TA Performance rear end girdles with pressure bolts
-Dana custom aluminum driveshaft
-SLP driveshaft safety loop


So what do we think guys....nice power..and to the ground? I am pretty excited!!!

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

I'd reconsider the Comp 918's personally. With the RPM band of that camshaft, and other mods pointing to you wanting to beat on the car, you'd be better off with a dual spring or at least a nitride'd beehive (PAC for example).

drewwrxrogers

Did I not post above in the list in [B]BOLD[B] that I was going to use the COMP 918's? O you mean use a diffrent spring set? You think maybe the Patriot set would be okay? I mean the 918's will more than cover the lift?

jmmullin

iTrader: (2)

Don't know how much you'll be choking it out with that LS1 intake, but once you get the FAST on there I'd guess it to be putting out about 420/400 at the wheels. Don't really hear much about how LS1 castings respond to porting... I usually only read stuff about 5.3L and LS6 heads. Maybe get a new ported oil pump and timing chain too while you're in there...most folks do that while its apart.

drewwrxrogers

I plan on breaking 400whp. Seen several Cam only cars on here keeping the stock intake for a while and making good numbers. Not that I dont know it would help...just that its not in the budget. LS1 intake with a little porting while its out just for the hell of it will be enough for the power im after i think. ^ And yes the chain will be switched to the beefier step up and the oil pump will be ported.

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

If you're going to beat on it, I'd go with a bit more spring than the 918's. Sorry I wasn't clear. The PRC dual spring kit would cover you and then some.

drewwrxrogers

With the Rod bolts and the Cam of choice...What would be a good number to shoot for as far as spinning the motor RPM wise?

jmmullin

iTrader: (2)

64-6800 would be achievable I'd say.

drewwrxrogers

Achieveable and safe are sometimes a little diffrent. I had orig. wanted to just run close to 6200rpms but of course with the cam choice I wanted to get a little more out of it so I went with the rod bolts for insurance. What makes 6800rpms a good number here and would it be a SAFE NUMBER?

drewwrxrogers

Also want to make sure that I am able to get the power to the ground and move the car!!! It's much more important to me than being a Dyno queen. I kinda feel that a dyno is nothing more than a tool used for tuning out power to be smooth and stocklike in not so stocklike conditions and really no so much for measure.

tittan1500

iTrader: (8)

use the stock maf. and what about tires? your 10 bolt wont hold much and your stock trans is going to take a crap with the stall and stickey tires.

so until you get a 9 in or like it I would run some crap tires and watch the trans temp

drewwrxrogers

No Thanks on the stock MAF...I am getting a tune...not just bolt a bunch of stuff on and drive around like a lot of guys. Tires wise rite now I have Eagle F1's at the moment. I will be using a set of ET Streets on WS6 wheels for the track days. And maybe one should take a look at this thread I started a long time ago below before bashing the trans and 10-bolt on the Stalled Auto's

https://ls1tech.com/forums/11-second...-10-bolts.html

Dont get me wrong...I am aware of the fact that they are weak...but the Stalled autos sure seem to get a lot of life out of them... even longer with a nice cover, girdles, pressure bolts, welding, ect...like mine.

cellulis44

iTrader: (11)

seams like you have it all figured out

Have fun with the swap... and transmission slippage with that powa.'

and that g80 IS going to take a poop... just a matter of when. just hope it doesnt take anything with it

drewwrxrogers

Just another reason to upgrade. Dont fix it til it's broken. My SS has 30k on it...sure there's some life left. 400rwhp let's hope isn't as leathal to my car as what you are suggesting but I have read people's .02 on both sides. Can't wait.

Now back to the topic

cellulis44

iTrader: (11)

maybe you'll get lucky

drewwrxrogers

luck may be part of it...but judging from the above link to my other thread....it's not always needed. In my time watching threads on this topic...it's typically the guys who are running 12 bolts, 9inch, ect. who are talking about how horrible the 10 bolt and stock auto trans are....then there are just as many or i'd say more examples of guys who are tickled with how much abuse their's has taken. It's up in the air.

Regardless, it would never stop me from building my car and moving on. I bought the auto for the exact reason of the trans and 10 bolt lifespan. Good friend of mine ran some nice 60's and times with his stalled auto for quit some time...then when I started that post it was nice to kinda be re-assured. I would never in a million years bet money on it lasting forever but hey....like I said above...Im not going to fix something or replace something that is holding up just fine til I have to.

Back the orig topic...What do you guys think of this combo? Also back to the RPM's ?...What range would be a good number to shoot for?

cellulis44

iTrader: (11)

mid 11's.. 415whp... shift @ 6600

btw why do you think they are running 12 bolts and 9"s?

drewwrxrogers

[/QUOTE]btw why do you think they are running 12 bolts and 9"s?[/QUOTE]

M6

drewwrxrogers

^ Mid 11's and anything over 400rwp is exactly what I would be happy with! I think very possible too...even with the stock intake....and when it can only get better from there! God bless the LS1...