Pushrod Length Question...
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Pushrod Length Question...
Ok i got a pushrod checker from jegs (7"-8.170") and when this is how i used it. I need to know if this is correct....
1. Took two rockers off that where off there lobes (int and ex).
2. Put the adjustable pushrod down the hole and tightened a rocker arm over it to 22 lb ft.
3. Adjusted to zero lash and then carefully took the rocker arm off and the checker out.
4. Counted number of turns (7 2/3 turns) then did this
7" + (.050" x 7 2/3) + .060" (lifter preload)
and came out with 7.44333333".....
Is this reasonable with all stock ls1 parts but with 5.3L heads that are unmilled and using autozone stock replacement gaskets?
If this is correct what length should i get? Also how do i know if i am doing this on a lifter that hasnt bled down because that would mess the numbers up wouldnt it....I cant push it down when i put the pushrod in and push. Is this normal or should i be able to feel some bounce in the lifter?
Sorry for all the questions...Let me know what all you valvetrain gurus have to say
Thanks!!!
1. Took two rockers off that where off there lobes (int and ex).
2. Put the adjustable pushrod down the hole and tightened a rocker arm over it to 22 lb ft.
3. Adjusted to zero lash and then carefully took the rocker arm off and the checker out.
4. Counted number of turns (7 2/3 turns) then did this
7" + (.050" x 7 2/3) + .060" (lifter preload)
and came out with 7.44333333".....
Is this reasonable with all stock ls1 parts but with 5.3L heads that are unmilled and using autozone stock replacement gaskets?
If this is correct what length should i get? Also how do i know if i am doing this on a lifter that hasnt bled down because that would mess the numbers up wouldnt it....I cant push it down when i put the pushrod in and push. Is this normal or should i be able to feel some bounce in the lifter?
Sorry for all the questions...Let me know what all you valvetrain gurus have to say
Thanks!!!
Last edited by COJO_24; 11-19-2008 at 08:29 PM. Reason: used the tool wrong...but still want some input
#5
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes....i measured the pushrod and then added preload and came out with 7.44"
What i want to know is if this is reasonable or am i doing something wrong....if this is correct would i be ok with using 7.400" pushrods?
What i want to know is if this is reasonable or am i doing something wrong....if this is correct would i be ok with using 7.400" pushrods?
#7
Yes that's reasonable and ordering the 7.400 pushrods would be perfect.
Trending Topics
#13
Who were they? I'm sticking with .020, I've talked with several builders as well one with several records to his name.
#14
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How do i know that i wasnt checking the length on a lifter that has already bled down? That would mean with the length that i had on the adjustable pushrod, it would be bottoming out the lifter right? And isnt that bad
Right now i just have the 7.400" stock pushrods in it and it seems to be alright
Let me know what yall think
Right now i just have the 7.400" stock pushrods in it and it seems to be alright
Let me know what yall think
Last edited by COJO_24; 11-24-2008 at 06:29 PM.
#15
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
You would have to push down pretty hard to bleed a lifter. The valve spring will take several minutes to bleed it down and the force is 70% higher than seat values, likely a couple of hundred pounds. With brand new lifters the plunger will move more easily though.
#16
You shouldn't have been putting any pressure on the lifter at all. And I say that the 7.4's are good to go. If it measured out to .017-.020 that should give you best hp without running a 0 lash set-up.