TireSm0ke

iTrader: (1)

I know this question gets asked 100 times a day...

Im looking for a streetable heads/cam set up. Right now im running a built 4L60E with a stock stall, lid, and a catback. I definitely will be running some longtubes with a catted y (CA emissions), and possibly a fast 90/90. Im kinda skeptic about going with a higher stall just because of fuel economy, mines terrible as it is. And a tune will definitely be coming when I do this.

Im looking for a cam that performs well across the power band, not looking for huge peak numbers, I just want something that can really wake the car up, whether it be at stoplights or freeway pulls. I rarely go to the track, and the car is about to hit 100k, but the motor seems pretty strong, and has been well maintained. Ive heard good things about the TR224, as well as the prc 5.3s, but ive also heard that it costs just as much to get a custom grind, what are the advantages to going custom? I want to see 400-450 at the wheels out of this combo. Oh and a 150 shot is in the near future...

As for the actual swap ill be doing it all myself, what exactly do I need? I know I need better valvesprings, pushrods, lifters? rockers? oh and an oil pump and timing chain. And is a cam degree tool really necessary?

Any experts please chime in and let me know what you think, thanks.

johnLs1camaro

iTrader: (28)

dude get a stall, that is the most important thing..i have a comp 224/230 with stock heads and made 380rwhp NA and thats with a 3500 stall.. i daily the car, and everything.. also you really need a stall, do some reading a about it..oh yeah i have nitrous also, and its a good cam to use with nitrous, and FI

fbodyman1026

iTrader: (11)

I'm no expert but I just helped my friend put together his 383 stroker ms4 2.5 heads setup. I wouldn't even waste my time doing heads cam without a stall. Your car will run like **** with stock stall/gears in an a4. I mean you could do a super baby cam and heads but for the cost and gain it won't be worth it. Actually I think a stalled/bolt on auto will outrun a head/cam stock stalled auto.


I have plans similar to you in the future with a 3800 yank, 230/230 custom grind, and prc 2.5 heads. that combo should net 425 rwhp and low 11's.

KING Z28 HAWK

iTrader: (11)

As you said you want your set up to work well "whether it be at stoplights or freeway pulls" so yeah you really need to get a stall that will keep you in the power band of the cam you select. As far as the cam there are a lot of variables. Do you want to stay street legal in Cali if so this is going to be more strict so your going to have less options. But a 224 is a great street cam from what I hear and read on ls1 forms. But if you want to stay legal you can’t go any lower than a 114 lsa to pass and nothing bigger than a 224 unless you can find someone to do one hell of a tune. But if you know a shop that will “pass” you on the smog test then you will have no problem making the power you want.

Take a look at these threads to help you select the cam thats right for you.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...rnal-engine-5/

TireSm0ke

iTrader: (1)

Im not completely against a stall, I just dont want something huge that will kill my mpg and be super loose on the street. Staying street legal is something id like, but I could find someone who could "pass" me if needed.