kngkahious

iTrader: (1)

i've been looking for a cam and keep getting told the tsp 233/239 cam is the biggest best cam for a street car. is this the cam i should get or can i get a better cam . the car is stock now getting a good intake ( fast or weind ) long tube's, n2o, tune and the cam . seriously looking for advise so i dont make a mistake.

mchdg86

iTrader: (3)

Streetable is a very much debated topic. What some drive everyday others would hate and call it a race only car. There are people that daily drive the T-rex cam. Its all in what you can tolerate and how good your tuner is.

Vindicated346

iTrader: (1)

it really is debatable and it also depends on what you want to use your car for..Im going with the vindicator, but maybe you would like something like 232/234dur 595/598lift and 112ls..maybe pat G or predZ will chime in

kngkahious

iTrader: (1)

i thought about the vindicator but it is to big for what i am doing . i know people the have 3/4 cam's in the drag car's and drive them through town. that is not a street cam though. i'm looking for a real street cam for a car you would get in drive cross country cruse the strip or on hundreds of mile road trip's. ron is doing the tuneing on the car so that part is taken care of. just need to make a cam choice.

i'm thinking the cam listed is as big as i am going to put in. might even put one in a little smaller.

WS6Jim

iTrader: (9)

Don't put a name on what cam your getting talk to your builder/tuner or pat g/predator-z and they will get you your best cam for what you have, what else you will have, and how you will be using it. To buy an off the shelf cam is silly just to say you have a named cam and it may work, but going custom takes things one step further. Please include more info about what other work it will have what kind of nitrous it will have, and if it has auto or manual trans. I'd say get all of the other details and bolt ons done and then a cam should be ground from that for best results! You said the car is stock and to get all of the bolt ons done right it sounds like your a few thousand away and cam will be as much as another 1500 or more to do it right with a tune. Be realistic and good luck with the car.

666 speed

iTrader: (4)

I have the TSP 233/239 on 112 in my GTO and would have no problem DD'ing it. With a good tune, it's no biggie.

On the interstate, I still average ~25mpg. Through town I manage ~14mpg in the heavy GTO.

FWIW, I would recommend it.

66deuce

iTrader: (1)

you have to ask yourself what your goals are for the car..how much power your looking for,drivability,what are your supporting mods,etc..
i think there a lot better cams for a DD than that one..for the street you want the power where you can use it,the TSP cam makes most of it's power in the higher rpm range....something around the mid 220s would be what i would look for..i had the TR220 in my old Z/28 and liked it a lot for a DD..just my .02

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

Best thing you can do is have a custom cam ground, it cost the same as an off the shelf cam. If your interested send me an pm with your email and I'll send you a form to fill put. It will have specific questions to guide us in specing a cam suited for your needs.

One thing you need to beware of. You will get many many cheerleaders on here telling you to do what they did their cam is the second coming of Jesus.
Most of these guys have never had more than one cam in a LS1 346.

Whats driveable, what makes sense and what will rip your valvetrain up are hotly debated on here daily. DO yourself a favor and talk to someone who knows the ramifications of your cam choices.

Guys who build engines all day long can tell you exactly what those agressive lobes do and what you really need to do in order to run a specific cam.

One mans gold mine is another mans trash pile and cams are the same way.

Some guys dont care if they have no power below 3500 rpms and other guys dont want to have to down shift everytime they want to pass someone.

And yet there are those who only care about a roll racing car or are just drag racers and we have road racers as well. All these guys have different requirements and one cam does not fit all.

Dont get caught up in all the double talk either. People will get on here and start spewing technical about stuff you wont understand but you'll think they're an expert because they use correct terminology...LOL

This isnt rocket science...LOL valves open and close and the timing of it is what they're talking about. Opening one valve before the other is closed.
Pressure waves and using them, its not really that complicated but some people on here like to make it seem that way...

PREDATOR-Z

willyfastz

I would love to know how they were able to get those cars running with only 3/4's of a cam. We always have to use the whole cam or there's going to be 4 valves that don't get to open and close.

willyfastz

Well said, no matter how loud the guy below you plays him violin.

kngkahious

iTrader: (1)

what do you think i should get . you seem to be the man to talk to. is that the cam i should get or should i get something different. what do you have i'm seriously looking for something.

BAN-LS1

iTrader: (16)

Had patrick G spec me a cam for my car, ended up being a 227/231 614 618. Car runs AWESOME!

PREDATOR-Z

You need to give more info:

>What year is your ride?
>A4 or M6?
>How many miles? (if too high, I suggest a leakdown/compression test, those results will determine how healthy your motor is ; nothing worse than spending all this cash only to find out your motor cannot handle it)
>What are your goals? (to determine powerband desired)
> And most inportant what is your Budget?

Then (assuming your motor healthy)

Basic bolt ons:

A4: Induction (lid / FTRA etc..), Headers, Rest of exhaust, Stall (with cam power range in mind), Intake (if pre 01), TB (either ported or aftermarket depending on intake)

M6: Induction (lid / FTRA etc..), Headers, Rest of exhaust, Clutch (with cam size in mind), Intake (if pre 01), TB (either ported or aftermarket depending on intake)

Tune (unless you are doing cam at same time, at which time you do that after cam install)

Now you are ready for cam.

kngkahious

iTrader: (1)

pacesetter lt's,cut out's before a non cat exhaust, ls6 intake, either a stock ported or a 90 mm tb. the car i have now is a a4 i am getting a m6 in a few mts. i am going to put a cam in both for street duty. this one dosent have a stall i have a 3k to go in it though. ( debating on if it's going in or not) it is completly stock so i'll put whatever part's on you reccommed. i'm looking for a 400 rwhp street car and spray a 150 on it. i'd like to run a 7.0 on spray 1/8 11.0 1/4 . i have the same goal for the 6 speed i'm getting . what cam do you reccommend for both. i'll eventually sell the a4 just something to play with till i get the other car and get used to.

kngkahious

iTrader: (1)

the tune will be done a vengance there only about 30 min from my house. i'll also get a set of patriot gold springs possibly a set of head's on the m6 car. i just want it to be a very good street car. but as fast as i can get within those guidelines.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

Not to be a smarta$$ but there is no "best street cam" but there is a best for me cam and more than likely an off the shelf grind is not it.

PREDATOR-Z

If you are A4, then you need a stall.
IMO Since you are close to Vengeance, I would put in their VRX4 and a SS4000 yank.
To get more air in, a Lid + FTRA would be nice. Just Port your TB, the LS6 intake is still one of the beast for street.
Of course, Tuning will make or brake it all.
Call Ron at Vengeance, he will set you up they know what they are doing.
If you prefer a custom cam, PM me I'll give my suggestion.

LS1nut377

iTrader: (16)

i like the VRx4.very good numbers,and know some people that have it, and they love it!

Dragkid1917

iTrader: (2)

233/239 gets the job done for sure my man. Im on a 112 LSA witch is a little radical but its streetable none the less. I went 11.5 with stock heads, no pulley, and stock intake with that cam.