Questions about 6.0 block in F-body
09-29-2003, 06:56 PM
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Questions about 6.0 block in F-body I'm contemplating the feasibility of building a big cube engine based on a 6.0 block for my '02 SS. After much research, I have several unanswered questions:
1. What year and model 6.0 block should be used?
2. I've read that only the 6.0 block is used, and the rest of the parts are transferred over from the 5.7. Specifically, which parts from the 5.7 will I use (crank, rods, oil pan, etc)?
3. What is the maximum reliable offset grind that can be accomplished on the stock 5.7 crank?
4. If I use the 5.7 crank, will my 4L60E bolt up (I've heard that the 6.0 crank will not allow this)?
5. I've read a lot about accessory bolt hole problems. Will all of my accessories bolt up? If not, what needs to be done to make everything work with reliability (more than 2 bolts in the alternator mounting)?
For those who have done the swap, is there anything else I should be aware of? Any pitfalls that you can help me avoid?
Thanks!
1. What year and model 6.0 block should be used?
2. I've read that only the 6.0 block is used, and the rest of the parts are transferred over from the 5.7. Specifically, which parts from the 5.7 will I use (crank, rods, oil pan, etc)?
3. What is the maximum reliable offset grind that can be accomplished on the stock 5.7 crank?
4. If I use the 5.7 crank, will my 4L60E bolt up (I've heard that the 6.0 crank will not allow this)?
5. I've read a lot about accessory bolt hole problems. Will all of my accessories bolt up? If not, what needs to be done to make everything work with reliability (more than 2 bolts in the alternator mounting)?
For those who have done the swap, is there anything else I should be aware of? Any pitfalls that you can help me avoid?
Thanks!
09-30-2003, 07:20 AM
#2
Re: Questions about 6.0 block in F-body 1. What year and model 6.0 block should be used?
- Any year is fine
2. I've read that only the 6.0 block is used, and the rest of the parts are transferred over from the 5.7. Specifically, which parts from the 5.7 will I use (crank, rods, oil pan, etc)?
- Everything transfers to the new block, but you will obviously need at least pistons
3. What is the maximum reliable offset grind that can be accomplished on the stock 5.7 crank?
- Most I have seen is .200 by Texas Speed (link at the right)
4. If I use the 5.7 crank, will my 4L60E bolt up (I've heard that the 6.0 crank will not allow this)?
- You tranny does not care what crank you use. The flex plate will bolt right up just like always. You don't want to use the 6.0L crank
5. I've read a lot about accessory bolt hole problems. Will all of my accessories bolt up? If not, what needs to be done to make everything work with reliability (more than 2 bolts in the alternator mounting)?
- You will have to drill and tap a second hole for the alternator. Takes about 5 minutes with a new bit and the correct tap.
For those who have done the swap, is there anything else I should be aware of? Any pitfalls that you can help me avoid?
- I am just completing this swap. No real pitfalls except the alternator thing. Two bolts is fine for holding it on.
- Any year is fine
2. I've read that only the 6.0 block is used, and the rest of the parts are transferred over from the 5.7. Specifically, which parts from the 5.7 will I use (crank, rods, oil pan, etc)?
- Everything transfers to the new block, but you will obviously need at least pistons
3. What is the maximum reliable offset grind that can be accomplished on the stock 5.7 crank?
- Most I have seen is .200 by Texas Speed (link at the right)
4. If I use the 5.7 crank, will my 4L60E bolt up (I've heard that the 6.0 crank will not allow this)?
- You tranny does not care what crank you use. The flex plate will bolt right up just like always. You don't want to use the 6.0L crank
5. I've read a lot about accessory bolt hole problems. Will all of my accessories bolt up? If not, what needs to be done to make everything work with reliability (more than 2 bolts in the alternator mounting)?
- You will have to drill and tap a second hole for the alternator. Takes about 5 minutes with a new bit and the correct tap.
For those who have done the swap, is there anything else I should be aware of? Any pitfalls that you can help me avoid?
- I am just completing this swap. No real pitfalls except the alternator thing. Two bolts is fine for holding it on.
09-30-2003, 10:56 AM
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Re: Questions about 6.0 block in F-body Thanks for the response!
Just for reference, the crank does make a difference with the trans. I've heard that the rear snout on the 6.0 crank is longer, and will not allow installation of the T56 or 4L60E without input shaft modifications or a bellhousing spacer.
Just for reference, the crank does make a difference with the trans. I've heard that the rear snout on the 6.0 crank is longer, and will not allow installation of the T56 or 4L60E without input shaft modifications or a bellhousing spacer.
09-30-2003, 11:05 AM
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Re: Questions about 6.0 block in F-body this is true, but it's only a factor in the realiest style 6.0's (supposedly only the iron head versions) the later (2001+) have almost identical crankshafts, save for the solid main journals of the 6.0 and the hollow main's of the LS1 crank. otherwise identical, that i've found.
