raven154

iTrader: (14)

I bought an assembled short block but just want to check main and rod bearing clearances as well as piston clearance. I also have arp 2000 rod bolts with compstar rods, arp main studs, stock polished crank, and Diamond forged pistons. I was told by the seller that the engine had been balanced/blueprinted by a machine shop and he assembled the engine but it cheap insurance just to check them while its out of the car.

Also need the torque specs for an arp balancer bolt.

Searched but come up with some weird threads.

Thanks

red02Hawk

iTrader: (9)

anywhere from .0008-.00275 on the mains and .0009-.0025 on the rods. but these are just ballpark figures, it also should be determined with what type of set up(dry sump) and the type of oil you wish to run and blah blah blah....
im local, who did the machine work and assembly

raven154

iTrader: (14)

Actually the machine shop and the guy that built it are in Florida thats why I want to check it. I bought it off here.

I have some RP XRP 5-30 that I was going to run in it after it gets broke in. Its a wet sump motor.

raven154

iTrader: (14)

so it looks like people have heated the pulley at 200* and went to 180ft lbs on the arp balancer bolt. Or 240lbs no heat. Is this correct?

red02Hawk

iTrader: (9)

well if you want to check it, you'll need a good set of micrometers and a bore guage, don't use plastigauge it only tells you if you have no clearance or some clearance. my advise, if you want to be certain of the clearances, is to take it down to a machine shop and have them check a rod or two and a couple crank journals, this would be cheaper then buying the necessary tools

raven154

iTrader: (14)

I actually have a friend that has all the tools I need. He said he'd let me borrow them anytime I want. I just needed to know what numbers to look for.

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

250* for 40 minutes here. Tapped it about 7/8 of the way on the crank snout with a hammer and 2x4(so hammer wouldnt hurt pulley) not hard hits, just taps and i pulled it on the rest of the way with the bolt.

382ssz28

iTrader: (24)

Crank-Mains-0.0015-0.0019"
Crank End Play-0.0016-0.0079"
Rods-0.0019-0.0031"
Crank Bolt-240lbs-Cold, with tool, never did it hot
Piston Bore Clearance-0.0007-0.0021"
Deck Height, Above Deck-0.008"

Hope this helps!

raven154

iTrader: (14)

Thanks for the info! That helps a lot!

KCS

iTrader: (20)

That's for a stock motor, if you try to use .002" or less piston-wall clearance with a forged aluminum piston, you'll probably seize that motor up! The piston manufacturer sends a recommended piston-wall clearance with the pistons, and it's more like .004" clearance for street stuff.

Usually, a competent engine builder will put a little more clearance on the mains and rods, right around .0022-.0028" on the mains and rods. Depending on the tranny, .004-.008" crank endplay is ideal. The amount the piston sticks out/in the deck, should be determined with the head gasket thickness in mind.

raven154

iTrader: (14)

Hmm.... some more to think about. Thanks kcs