H82BBad

I am getting ready to try them.
240 int 244 exhaust both .580 lift so they should be srping and guide friendly

Smoke_Ford

No, but that sounds nuts...

H82BBad

you think?
I am building a 383 (all stroke )
TEA 5.3 stage 2 2.05/1.57 heads ,nxl I think it should work very well.

SPANKY LS1

iTrader: (24)

Where can more info be had on these? I assume these are somewhere between XE and XE-R lobes? TIA, Shawn

H82BBad

they are on comps web page. all are limited lift lobes, .580 max. to make it easy on the valve train,gee I wonder how long it will take untill some sponser comes out with a cam using these lobes that they designed?

TEA turned me onto them

SPANKY LS1

iTrader: (24)

Got a link or a catalog page number, I can't find them over there?

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

TEA on this one

H82BBad

238-278? right under the xer ls1 lobes. cam lobes

here is the url

93PONY

Are you talking about the 'Cheather HR' series?
LOL
Those aren't converted for the LS1. They were designed (by Ed C.) for strict mustang 5.0 racing classes a few years ago.

I have one of the more aggressive 'Mustang R' lobes on my Turbo cam.

You must realize these are ment for a Ford cam core & will 'grow' when used on an LS1 core.

SPANKY LS1

iTrader: (24)

Hmmmmm..... Why would TEA recommend a cam with .580 max lift?

Hitman#1

iTrader: (1)

sbrown99TA

From what I understand, the lobe that the cam is designed for has to be them same as what you're using. The journal size and base circle both change how the cam is actually ground.

I've seen a cam grinder work and anybody that has seen a cam "master" (the template that the cams are based on) knows that you cannot just change from a 55mm core (LS1) to a Ford joud journal without changing the cam specs.

H82BBad

hmm I will check for sure monday. I already had one guy gonna get me one, I will let you guys know what the outcome is.

93PONY

These are trick lobes. Make no mistake about it. Some have described these type of lobes as 'square'. Just be aware that they have different valvetrain requirements. They're also not ment for every type of motor combination. These were designed for limited lift race classes where peak power is made in the higher RPM band (above 7K).

SStrokerAce

iTrader: (2)

To add on to what 93Pony said the Cheater HR are a race only cam lobes. They can be run with both solid roller lifters and hydraulic roller lifters for the Mustang guys who want to race the same motor in different classes where they are limited to certain lifters. If you are thinking about these things for a street car then that's a big mistake. They are designed purely for a drag race setup and will have a short life span with street car parts.

As for what sbrown99TA said. You can cross lobes over from one journal size to another without optimum results. Thunders OMC uses a lobe very similar to a 3190 SBC lobe from Comp. Very similar because alot of cam companies copy each others lobes alot. Going from a small journal size like a 1.868" SBC to a 55mm (2.1653") LS1 journal is not as bad as going from a LS1 to a SBC. The LS1 lobes can be much more aggressive due to the larger base circle size realitve to the lift.

Bret

Brian Tooley Racing

iTrader: (13)

"They were designed (by Ed C.) for strict mustang 5.0 racing classes a few years ago."

Incorrect, they were not. BTW when we tested some of his stuff it floated the valves 1000 rpm's sooner then the cam we were using.

"Hmmmmm..... Why would TEA recommend a cam with .580 max lift?"

Because if we can get our power adder 306 cu in cars to run 8 sec ET's with 1.6 rockers and .550 lift then these will make the power with a good head, and since H82BBAD and me have both broken springs on cams of more then .580" lift then you can understand why we would reccomend these.

"I've seen a cam grinder work and anybody that has seen a cam "master" (the template that the cams are based on) knows that you cannot just change from a 55mm core (LS1) to a Ford joud journal without changing the cam specs"

Correct, it will change the duration a degree or two

"They are designed purely for a drag race setup and will have a short life span with street car parts."

This is incorrect, these are not the square lobe stuff like NHRA stockers run. These are slower ramp speed cams that will make more RPM without floating the valves. They are easier on parts then the XE-R lobes. I have Fords with factory lifters that go 8000 RPM with stainless valves. Hope this helps and please no flaming, every post I reply to gets locked. Lets keep the tech in LS1tech.

J-Rod

Here are the lobe specs from Comps' Master Cam Lobe catalog.








The last page has the Mustang lobes...

93PONY

From the horses' mouth I was told these lobes are some of his out-dated designs (4+ years old).

Obviously the cam you were using to compare to Ed's was no where near as aggressive. He too has cars shifting at 7800-8000 rpm using stock lifters. But I'm sure you didn't post that to bash anyone.

It is true, these lobes don't float the valves as easily as say the 4X4 lobes. On my own car I hit valvefloat at 6200-6300rpm with a 4X4 lobed cam (intake & exhaust), went to a 'more aggressive' race lobe on the intake & a standard Ford XE lobe on the exhaust & haven't hit valvefloat yet....it's been reved to 6500-6600 with the same valvetrain.

These lobes are more aggressive off the seat then the standard XE line, but less aggressive above .150 lobe lift. But, they are not as aggressive off the seat as the 4X4 lobes...which seems to be an early attempt at limited lift lobes.

Still, IMO these lobes are not for every combination. I've yet to run accross an LS1 that I'd put these in... I'd much rather run more duration at .200 to let these heads breathe up top & spring the motor correctly for the added lift.

If at all possible I use the most aggressive lobes I can..on the intake side anyway. Most don't aggree with this, but I've had excellent results.

H82BBad

Hmm why must always be an ***?
don't you have a car to put together? For the rest of dyno season?

TEA didn't recommend this cam because of the lift to me.I wanted to go with a larger cam, and since we had both broken valve springs with larger lift cams I didn't want to go that route. I didn't want to have .600 lift, I think that going over .600 lift is dumb unless you have bronze guide's (I don't) And I also didn't want to be eating springs. I wanted to be able to drive the car anywhere. Durration makes power even with less lift. If it doesn't work I can always change to another cam. But I think it will work very nice.


Now on to my post I have the cam in hand
I went a little smaller
236/240 .580 lift int and exhaust.

H82BBad

the cool thing is this is another TEA first!

TEA first to market with dual springs not needing to modify the rockers
TEA first to sell and affordable great flowing on site CNC ls1 head.
TEA first to use the (hammer) andy cam!
TEA first to try the the Renegade lobes on an ls-1
Life is good when your first!