Help! Rocker install advice?
04-10-2009, 05:43 PM
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Help! Rocker install advice? Im replacing the valve springs on my 99 camaro with some Comp springs. I already know to put sealer on the intake rocker bolts. But when I start to torque them down to 22 ft.-lb. can I just run them all down, or do I have to make sure the valves are closed first? Any help would be appreciated!
04-10-2009, 08:25 PM
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Important
When using the valve train components again, always install the components to the original location and position.
Valve lash is net build, no valve adjustment is required.
Lubricate the valve rocker arms and pushrods with clean engine oil.
Lubricate the flange of the valve rocker arm bolts with clean engine oil. Lubricate the flange or washer surface of the bolt that will contact the valve rocker arm.
Install the valve rocker arm pivot support.
Important
Ensure that the pushrods seat properly to the valve lifter sockets.
Install the pushrods.
Important
Ensure that the pushrods seat properly to the ends of the rocker arms.
DO NOT tighten the rocker arm bolts at this time.
Install the rocker arms and bolts.
Rotate the crankshaft until number one piston is at top dead center of compression stroke. In this position, cylinder number one rocker arms will be off lobe lift, and the crankshaft sprocket key will be at the 1:30 position. If viewing from the rear of the engine, the additional crankshaft pilot hole, non-threaded, will be in the 10:30 position. The engine firing order is 1, 8, 7, 2, 6, 5, 4, 3. Cylinders 1, 3, 5 and 7 are left bank. Cylinders 2, 4, 6, and 8 are right bank.
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
With the engine in the number one firing position, tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts: Tighten
Tighten exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 1, 2, 7, and 8 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
Tighten intake valve rocker arm bolts 1, 3, 4, and 5 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees.
Tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts: Tighten
Tighten exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 3, 4, 5, and 6 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
Tighten intake valve rocker arm bolts 2, 6, 7, and 8 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
When using the valve train components again, always install the components to the original location and position.
Valve lash is net build, no valve adjustment is required.
Lubricate the valve rocker arms and pushrods with clean engine oil.
Lubricate the flange of the valve rocker arm bolts with clean engine oil. Lubricate the flange or washer surface of the bolt that will contact the valve rocker arm.
Install the valve rocker arm pivot support.
Important
Ensure that the pushrods seat properly to the valve lifter sockets.
Install the pushrods.
Important
Ensure that the pushrods seat properly to the ends of the rocker arms.
DO NOT tighten the rocker arm bolts at this time.
Install the rocker arms and bolts.
Rotate the crankshaft until number one piston is at top dead center of compression stroke. In this position, cylinder number one rocker arms will be off lobe lift, and the crankshaft sprocket key will be at the 1:30 position. If viewing from the rear of the engine, the additional crankshaft pilot hole, non-threaded, will be in the 10:30 position. The engine firing order is 1, 8, 7, 2, 6, 5, 4, 3. Cylinders 1, 3, 5 and 7 are left bank. Cylinders 2, 4, 6, and 8 are right bank.
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
With the engine in the number one firing position, tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts: Tighten
Tighten exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 1, 2, 7, and 8 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
Tighten intake valve rocker arm bolts 1, 3, 4, and 5 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees.
Tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts: Tighten
Tighten exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 3, 4, 5, and 6 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
Tighten intake valve rocker arm bolts 2, 6, 7, and 8 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
04-10-2009, 10:58 PM
#3
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well dude, i dont like to be the guy that says "awe its no big deal - its really easy", but i am on this one, and you can take it for what its worth.
i had to do a long involved process on my LT1, and i am usually very ****. but this rocker set up just seemed like it wouldnt matter whether the springs are compressed or not. there will be a very tiny difference in torque on the wrench from spring pressure.
so, after making sure the rods are set on the lifter properly, and the rocker arms are set on there a little snug with the PR seated in the rocker tip correctly, i set the torque wrench to 22ft lbs and tightened them each down slowly and evenly until they were all torqued to 22lbs. DONE!
and just to make sure that my theory worked, i ran the motor for a while and went for a easy drive, let it cool, and checked the torque. all were still at 22. then cranked it over and checked them a couple more times just to be sure they were checked while off the lobe.
i feel confident that there isnt anything wrong with doing it the way it did it.....
good luck.
i had to do a long involved process on my LT1, and i am usually very ****. but this rocker set up just seemed like it wouldnt matter whether the springs are compressed or not. there will be a very tiny difference in torque on the wrench from spring pressure.
so, after making sure the rods are set on the lifter properly, and the rocker arms are set on there a little snug with the PR seated in the rocker tip correctly, i set the torque wrench to 22ft lbs and tightened them each down slowly and evenly until they were all torqued to 22lbs. DONE!
and just to make sure that my theory worked, i ran the motor for a while and went for a easy drive, let it cool, and checked the torque. all were still at 22. then cranked it over and checked them a couple more times just to be sure they were checked while off the lobe.
i feel confident that there isnt anything wrong with doing it the way it did it.....
good luck.
04-11-2009, 07:21 AM
#4
GM procedure, take it for what its worth. Measuring static torque vs. running torque are two different things so pulling the valve covers and checking for 22 lb-ft doesn't mean they are at 22 lb-ft. Aftermarket springs and higher lift will also make a difference and using a lessor number of threads in aluminum to compress the valve spring shouldn't be done in my opinion.
Last edited by vettenuts; 04-11-2009 at 07:26 AM.
