nalmak

iTrader: (1)

Ok so after about 4 months with some brand new 243's i finally got of my big black butt and decided to do the heads..I bought a cam 1 week a go so i decided to do it while im in there.If my rear blows oh well..

I started taking pics after most of the stuff was removed so here we go..


My Lady helping with the removal of the valve covers..She knows her stuff..She took off the whole lid assembly, changed the rear end to a T/A Girdle. draind/filled gear oil, changed the 1-2, and 2-3 shift solenoid..I had to show her how to do.. it but she did it herself..Good Job


Passenger side rockers..Looks pretty good..Not


Driverside rockers look good too

file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Nebill/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/2009_4_10/photo0022.jpg
Workin on summthin i just dont know what it was

file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Nebill/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/2009_4_10/Photo0026.jpg
By Night time i had most of everything off that needed to be except the heads

file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Nebill/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/2009_4_10/Photo0027.jpg
That GODDAMN Power sterring bolts were my biggest problem..The bottom one can go to hell



file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Nebill/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/2009_4_10/Photo0033.jpg
Some pics of the intake..looks very lean since after i put on my headers, but i drove around for a week with open headers so maybe that is what its suposed to look like..I dunno

Alright that is it for tonight, I will get on it in tha morning..My feet hurt..This is my first H/C Swap on a LS1, so imtaking it easy

nalmak

iTrader: (1)

oh damn the other 3 didnt upload...ok ill take other pics in the morning with my phone then....also when torquing the head bolts down do i use 30 wt oil or the moly compound..i have ARP Head Bolts?

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I believe the torque specs will be different if you use SAE 30 compared to the moly. The moly reduces the friction so you don't have to torque the bolts down as much.

ARP might have it their website. If not I am sure there are a lot of people on here that have used ARP bolts. If I am not mistaken the ARP head bolts are not torque to yield like factory bolts are.

Good luck on the swap. It's awesome your girl is helping you out.

nalmak

iTrader: (1)

Thanks..Yeah in the instructions it just says torque them to 70ft lbs with the moly and 85 with the 30 wt..But on LS1how to .com it says first 30 then 50 then 70??

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I found this on LS1howto.com

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=2

If you scroll down towards the bottom is has the torque specs for factory bolts and ARP bolts. Hope this helps.

jetlag

iTrader: (32)

It has something to do about possibly warping the heads I think....

If one side is torqued down to 70lbs and the other side is all floatin' around, it could happen?

So just go in stages in a criss-cross pattern, like changing a tire.

nalmak

iTrader: (1)

Well yeah of course in the torque sequence but which torque specs do i follow the Instructions or LS1Howto.com..

jetlag

iTrader: (32)

Sorry, I misunderstood what you were asking.

Use what ever spec came with the bolts. I've used 80lbs with motor oil on ARP bolts, on Ford motors, but same thing...

nalmak

iTrader: (1)

ok..will do

99Ls1fever

iTrader: (3)

Nice article on heads and cam install!!!!

nalmak

iTrader: (1)

Ok So i woke up.kinda sore and ****..So my roomates inform me that they are gonna have a party..So I say cool..So me and my girl go out to eat and come back, and see some people bringing in tables..My girl says "are they gonna play jenga, or uno?"..After laughing at the thought of 11 dudes playing uno..I feel asleep and woke up to this


and this


odd ball



wierdo





Anyway..I continued to work on the car and i got the fan shroud off but cam to a dilema

My tranny cooler is mounted to the ac condenser the one infront of the radiator but the tabs that hold it up are being held with the radiator so do i disconnect it from where the tranny lines go in like this


or do i cut the tabs holding it up through the radiator this way


want to make sure before i continue
thanks guys

nalmak

iTrader: (1)

Ok the radiator and ac condenser took a minute since i was working on them myself..And my god, they cram a bunch of **** on top of ****..

Any way after removing both, a couple of smoke breaks i tried removing the driver side head..and i forgot my dumb *** welder welded my collector to the exhaust pipe so the headers could not move oput the way freely..PITA

After cursing, breaking a 3/8 wrench, and asking for death i finnaly got out the spark plugs to at least get enough room to take off the head bolts

At times i had to hold the header and break free the bolt with my other hand at the same time

Then i said **** it and let the header rest on the coolant temp socket..These heads are not going to be reused so why not

It wasnt that hard to break them, i have no air tools,but if you get a good grip on them you can break them fairy easy

The spark plug fiasco took A LONG TIME!!!..The heads about 40 mins

And here is what i found

this was my #3 Piston


What do you guys think


#7 piston


hmmmm??

pushrods from the driverside



Rockers from the driverside



The heads..They look very lean


I found some TR6 Plugs, so putting 2 and 2 2gether, means the previuos owner sprayed..I don't think i could make the car that lean, for a month and a half running headers with no tune

Well im done for 2day..Any comments will be greatley appreciated..Or advice

Thanks Conan for the ac delete help, and Mike and Ryne from CMS.For over the phone help

nalmak

iTrader: (1)

ok i guess nobody had advice or tips..thanks.

nalmak

iTrader: (1)

ok so the passenger side head came off..and the #8 cylinder had alot of coolant in the jacket..but anyway..i noticed that the lifter retanier area had a yellowish greenish composition to it as opposed to the others that had brown..it was on the block, and some were in the bolt hole under the cylinder..dont know what it means

as for the heads..the 8, 6 cylinders were Very lean..ill post those pics in a bit

but here are the lifter retainer walls on the block

Red97Z

iTrader: (22)

I can't tell from the pics, but WTF is that on your pistons?

Sommer86

iTrader: (46)

Oh ****....another H/C car!! Congrats on takling it yourself, sucks for the pics of **** in the engine i'm seeing.

can't wait to hear it fire up!! And that's awesome that your chick's helping...

Congrats again!

nalmak

iTrader: (1)

I honestly dont know...Im guessing scarring from being to lean??..It looks as if it was melted a bit..Like i said the previous owner sprayed it..Im guessing untuned..But oh well..Il replace it when the crank sticks out of my block..

Ill post pics of the pass heads tomm..Its very lean

nalmak

iTrader: (1)

Yeah Mike,,im MIA at bobs..But ill be there maybe friday..

nalmak

iTrader: (1)

Ok just to make sure..Drop the starter and insert a screwdriver from to lock it down right?

Could i just wedge some pipe in between the arms on the pully and try to break it that way?

nalmak

iTrader: (1)

ok took the cam out, and put the new one in

I didnt **** with the pick up tube and ****, so i am reusing my same chain and pump..Couldn't really get to it and i didnt want to drop the bolt so i let it be

The passenger side head is what i was saying was lean


and this is everything open


update later