JFM-jr

iTrader: (23)

I posted the question before about reusing stock mains bolts and I know they are reusable. However I heard a GM mechanic telling me the block itself has a limited amount of times the head and main bolts can be torqued into them. Anybody heard of this?

Randy WS6

iTrader: (69)

Were thay are aluminum blocks ,the threads can wear down over time from torquing, over and over, but if you use a molly lube on the threads you will get more torques, The lube stops galling or tearing of the threads in the block. But you would haft to tear down the engine a lot of times before you would start pulling threads,Or the best thing would be to put main and head studs ,like I did

02b4ccamaro

iTrader: (3)

what is molly lube? will oil work just as good?

Randy WS6

iTrader: (69)

Molly lube is a high pressure grease,that is used to stop drag dearing torque, yes you can use motor oil but it not hear as good, You can get molly lube from most of the sponsors on here

-Joseph-

iTrader: (12)

I've had some old '98 main cap bolts that would not "feel" torqued correctly after going through the torque procedure. Hard to describe, but when replaced; they had increased torque effort to achieve the full torque sequence with the newer bolts. What has worked for me as a guideline on newer blocks is replace after the 2nd full torque down, if rebuilding something older I just replace them automatically.

My new Snap-On angle torque wrench in addition to doing angle torques, also keeps track of the torque to achieve that angle. Most good condition LS1 main bolts are in the 58-62lb ft range after the angle torquing procedure.

For reference:
All M10 main bolts torque to 16lb ft with oil or ARP lube (angle bolt stretch does not rely on friction so either work).
All inner 13mm headed main bolts angle torque to 80 degrees
All outer 15mm headed studded main bolts angle torque to 53 degrees
Side bolts to 18lb ft

Most would just get ARP studs though.

JFM-jr

iTrader: (23)

I would have went the stud route if I were getting the block line honed. From what I gathered it was more an issue with the block itself rather than the hardware as far as amount of retorques.

-Joseph-

iTrader: (12)

Never had a problem nor heard of any with those block threads, but I always use engine oil or moly lube on the threads also. 58-62lb ft is not a lot of repetitive torque IMO for that part of the engine. Head bolts have way more strain than that (1mm larger diameter), and you rarely see issues with head bolt threads unless it's user error.

Like I said, I have seen a bolt issue with a 98 block, replaced it and it torqued just fine afterwards. I throw away about 1 new set of OEM bolts a week for engines that get studs.

JFM-jr

iTrader: (23)

If I did not have the block line honed it's best to stick with the stock bolts correct? This set of bolts were torqued from the factory removed then retorqued with the bearings removed to check clearances for new bearings. I have a set of new standard bearings waiting to go in. This would be the 3rd time these bolts will get torqued down.

-Joseph-

iTrader: (12)

I should clarify, 3 times with running in-between, I wouldn't count bearing checking as one, OEM torquing as one, etc. Rather more of an engine run cycle. That's just my own criteria, nothing written in stone...

I would run the OEM bolts if your not align honing. Just make sure to check each main bearing clearance.