What machine work do I need done?
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What machine work do I need done?
Ok, I"m building an LS1 for boost, Have already torn block 99% down.
What machine work will I need to get done.
hot tank the block to clean it obviously... magnaflux?? i know what this is on older engines, but an aluminum block isn't magnetic....
Sticking with stock cubes. the engine block has about 155,000 on it still ran good when it was disassembled.
What do i need to do to balance the crank? Do i balance pistons, etc seperately and just have the crank, fly wheel, and balanced. or does it all need to be done together.
The reason i aske these questions is I'm a newbie to the internal engine world, and the "experts" as they proclaim themselves have conflicting statements. everybody around here STILL seems afraid of LS1's.. "them damn computer engines"
I'd appreciate any help on this matter.
Thanks!
Steve
What machine work will I need to get done.
hot tank the block to clean it obviously... magnaflux?? i know what this is on older engines, but an aluminum block isn't magnetic....
Sticking with stock cubes. the engine block has about 155,000 on it still ran good when it was disassembled.
What do i need to do to balance the crank? Do i balance pistons, etc seperately and just have the crank, fly wheel, and balanced. or does it all need to be done together.
The reason i aske these questions is I'm a newbie to the internal engine world, and the "experts" as they proclaim themselves have conflicting statements. everybody around here STILL seems afraid of LS1's.. "them damn computer engines"
I'd appreciate any help on this matter.
Thanks!
Steve
#2
you cannot magnaflux non-ferrous (meaning no iron ie alum) materials. maybe the liners, but that is it. if its an iron block, its not an LS1. you should make sure its stripped all the way not just 99%, because every bit is going to be extra for the machine shop to do, and labor isnt cheap.
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Ok, I"m building an LS1 for boost, Have already torn block 99% down.
What machine work will I need to get done.
hot tank the block to clean it obviously... magnaflux?? i know what this is on older engines, but an aluminum block isn't magnetic....
Sticking with stock cubes. the engine block has about 155,000 on it still ran good when it was disassembled.
What do i need to do to balance the crank? Do i balance pistons, etc seperately and just have the crank, fly wheel, and balanced. or does it all need to be done together.
The reason i aske these questions is I'm a newbie to the internal engine world, and the "experts" as they proclaim themselves have conflicting statements. everybody around here STILL seems afraid of LS1's.. "them damn computer engines"
I'd appreciate any help on this matter.
Thanks!
Steve
What machine work will I need to get done.
hot tank the block to clean it obviously... magnaflux?? i know what this is on older engines, but an aluminum block isn't magnetic....
Sticking with stock cubes. the engine block has about 155,000 on it still ran good when it was disassembled.
What do i need to do to balance the crank? Do i balance pistons, etc seperately and just have the crank, fly wheel, and balanced. or does it all need to be done together.
The reason i aske these questions is I'm a newbie to the internal engine world, and the "experts" as they proclaim themselves have conflicting statements. everybody around here STILL seems afraid of LS1's.. "them damn computer engines"
I'd appreciate any help on this matter.
Thanks!
Steve
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You don't need the rings on the pistons, you can't file them until the bores are finished. Besides, the amount of material removed during the filing is insignificant and won't affect your balance. The shop will need them though to get the proper bobweight.
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Rotating Weight:
Big end of rod (including fastening hardware)
Bearing
Oil (normally estimated at four grams)
Reciprocating Weight:
Piston
Wristpin
Pin locks (if used)
Small end of rod
Piston rings
Bob weight = Rotating Weight + Reciprocating Weight x .50
Once everything is equal and the bobweight is determined, weight is added to the rod journals equalling the bobweight that was calculated earlier. A balance machine is used to specify exactly where the crank needs to be re-worked to bring it into balance. This is done by adding or removing weight from the crank in specific places as determined by the balance machine. To remove weight, the shop will generally drill holes in the counterweight. To add weight gets real expensive real fast. Most crank manufacturers can supply you with a "target bobweight" for their cranks helping you try to pick properly weighted parts to avoid the expense of adding weight to the crank. Shops will add weight in one of two ways. One is to drill a hole in the bottom of the counterweight and press in a slug of "mallory metal" (a tungsten alloy 1.5x heavier than lead and real expensive) and weld it in place so the reciprocating force can't throw it out. The second is to drill a hole parallel to the crank centerline in the counterweight and press in a slug of mallory. The position of the slug keeping it in place. In external balancing, weight is added and removed from the balancer and flywheel/flexplate instead of the crank.
Well there's my long drawn out post to answer a simple question. I hope this helps you to understand how things work and will help you in picking the proper parts for your build. Good luck!
Last edited by fast01; 05-06-2009 at 03:35 AM.
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wow, thanks for the awesome explanation, so balancer and flywheel and flexplate generally aren't balanced with the LS1 engine?
Thanks the info is helping me a great deal i'm pretty green to the whole internal engine world and have read a couple of online tutorials/info articles i mainly want to know what a shop SHOULD do and for my peace of mind how it's done.
Steve
Thanks the info is helping me a great deal i'm pretty green to the whole internal engine world and have read a couple of online tutorials/info articles i mainly want to know what a shop SHOULD do and for my peace of mind how it's done.
Steve
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If you have the pistons and rods balanced is it required on a 6200rpm motor to have the rotating assembly balanced together? I know for the best possible result it should be but is it required?
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wow, thanks for the awesome explanation, so balancer and flywheel and flexplate generally aren't balanced with the LS1 engine?
Thanks the info is helping me a great deal i'm pretty green to the whole internal engine world and have read a couple of online tutorials/info articles i mainly want to know what a shop SHOULD do and for my peace of mind how it's done.
Steve
Thanks the info is helping me a great deal i'm pretty green to the whole internal engine world and have read a couple of online tutorials/info articles i mainly want to know what a shop SHOULD do and for my peace of mind how it's done.
Steve
mike13, If you know the target bobweight of the crank and your reciprocating weight is within a reasonable margin, you can get away without getting it done. This is basically how it's done at the factory. However, if you are too far off, you run the risk of hammering the bearings and possibly causing damage to the cylinder walls.
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This next fall I was going to install ported heads and katech rod bolts (motor in car) I was thinking it would be nice to just drop in forged rods/pistons because the motor would be torn down that far anyway. Doesn't sound like I can do it without having the crank out to have it all balanced.
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the question is how long will your motor last.
think about palancing a wheel out of balance it is bouncy if you put the pistons etc in you need to balance it. don't touch the bottom end just do the top and your engine will be fine.
"since i was...." is how i got into this whole build.
think about palancing a wheel out of balance it is bouncy if you put the pistons etc in you need to balance it. don't touch the bottom end just do the top and your engine will be fine.
"since i was...." is how i got into this whole build.
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"Because the motor would be torn down that far anyway"
I've spent more money based on this statement than I care to admit. It always sounds good at the time, but by the time all is said and done it always costs at least double what I planned on spending and that's before all of the nickle and dime stuff! All I can say is plan carefully and stick to the plan. If I actually practiced what I preach, I'd have be a lot richer right now! Good luck!
I've spent more money based on this statement than I care to admit. It always sounds good at the time, but by the time all is said and done it always costs at least double what I planned on spending and that's before all of the nickle and dime stuff! All I can say is plan carefully and stick to the plan. If I actually practiced what I preach, I'd have be a lot richer right now! Good luck!