1Loudz28

iTrader: (47)

i read the read up on http://www.blackcamaro.com/headstud.htm and i noticed that it says to back out the bolts after torquing them down.

does this apply to used ARP head bolts as well, or just brand new ones?

vsocks1

iTrader: (6)

If that is the correct method I did not use it when I did mine this weekend! I used ARP head studs and torqued in 3 passes to 80 ft. lbs. (large bolts 25, 55, 80#). After these were all done I torqued the small studs in sequence to 25 ft. lbs.

Randy WS6

iTrader: (69)

When installing head studs, you install the studs in the block and screw them all the way down in the block then back them out 1/2 turn (before torque), Then install the heads and torque to torque specs.

On head bolts ,torque to spec (Do not back them out after torque.) This is on new and old bolts
Use ARP lube on the outer theads on studs, and inner theads on bolts.

1Loudz28

iTrader: (47)

thanks randy!

topher455

iTrader: (6)

With a new set of arp bolts or studs it is best to torque cycle them. Follow the torque procedure (with an old gasket) and then loosen the bolts all up and torque them again (in the proper sequence). Most engine builders reccomend 3 torque cycles on new bolts. Same with arp rod bolts.

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

One of the benefits of the "cycle" process is burnishing the threads in the head bolt hole, and the face of the fastener to the hole in the head. You are in essense removing any stress riser that could prevent the threads from reaching their true clamping load.

Chances are, this is not necessary on used bolts. Since you obviously aren't asking about a TTY fastener, I don't see what it could hurt either.

topher455

iTrader: (6)

I missed where it said reusing ARP bolts. If they are used there probably isnt a reason to cycle them since the heat cycles of the engine have already done it for you.

Hammertime thanks for posting that link in your sig! Good info.

voda1

iTrader: (4)

Original head bolts have some type of sealant/threadlocker that must be removed from the threaded holes. Why is there no sealant/threadlocker needed upon reassembly with the ARP studs(block threads)/head bolts? Also the GM replacement bolts come with some red sealant/threadlocker already applied.

topher455

iTrader: (6)

They are torque to yield bolts versus the stretch type (arp). You can loctite the ARP studs in but you have to torque them right away.

topher455

iTrader: (6)

You will also find that the arp bolts sit thighter in the threads than the gm bolts too. It's all a part of the design.

Randy WS6

iTrader: (69)

I put red loctite on my studs, on the threads that go in the block.

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

All else fails, go to the "horses mouth" for answers...
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechInstall.html
Clik on "torque wrench" topic.
Lots of good info under the other topics, too.

Petraszewsky

iTrader: (28)

Which way do the washers on the ARP head bolts go on??? Chamfered side up or down???Thanks

XtraCajunSS

iTrader: (2)

For most install questions, the ARP link posted above is the best source of info. FYI, all bolts are designed to stretch a given amount for optimum clamping force, including the GM TTY bolts. The "torque to yeild" spec basically means the bolt is a one time stretch item. Once these bolts are used, they cannot be re-used since they will not retain their "elasticity." The ARP bolts and studs are designed to be stretched over and over. The main advantage to studs being the threads in the block are only seeing loads perpendicular the the stud centerline and not frictional loads as a bolt does as its being twisted into the block.

Also, be careful when using loctite or any threadlocker on studs. DO NOT use any unless you want them permenantly installed in your block. You should also make sure to torque the heads down BEFORE the threadlocker sets.

Shane

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Chamfered side up, that way it matches the radius under the head of the bolt.

Petraszewsky

iTrader: (28)

Thanks!!!!

Mighty-SS

iTrader: (19)

x2 !!!