WOW just WOW (GC oil)
05-19-2009, 10:39 AM
#1
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WOW just WOW (GC oil) I have a 99 ss with 172,000 miles on it. I have had kind of low oil pressure for the past 4 years. Not really super low but lower than most cars. It will always stay around 20-30 psi while driving and will go up to about 40-45 at wot. I have always used Mobil 1 and I always burn about a qt every 1,500 miles a well. I did some research on oil and decided to change it. I found some Castrol Syntec full synthetic oil at Autozone. It's the euro/german formula btw not the American kind (0-30) Anyway, long story short, as soon as I fired it up, my oil pressure jumped up to 60 psi and has not gotten below 45 while driving along nice and slow. When I get on it, it goes on up to about 70 or so like it should. Also, I swear it feels like I picked up about 10-15 rwhp. No proof of that but the sotp meter says so. My car is a lot more peppy and runs alot better now from just changing the oil. Now if only, it don't burn any like the M1 does, I'll be set for life with this oil.
05-19-2009, 12:41 PM
#2
You cant get the german castrol around here? You need to order it online, and yes that should happen. Going from a middle grade oil like mobile 1 to something on top like ams oil, german castrol, redline, they CLEAN your engine from all the past **** in it. Just keep a eye on your pressure as it probably won't be super clean until the next oil change because of all the gunk it picked up from mobile 1.
05-20-2009, 01:44 PM
#7
This thread makes no sense.
First off, if you were only seeing 20-30psi of oil pressure that's a little on the low side. Not dreadfully low, but low none the less. It could be something as simple as the oil pump or the pressure sender but with 172K miles on the motor I'd say that your clearances are beginning to get a little on the loose side causing your lower oil pressure. Running a thicker oil will band-aid the problem for a little while but if it gets any lower, I'd probably suggest a rebuild in all honesty.
Now, the part that doesn't make sense to me...
What weight was the M1 you were using? I assume it was either 5W30 or 0W40? Changing oils (Unless that oil is a significantly higher viscosity) will not raise your oil pressure as you have stated, in your case even doubling it. Something is fishy there and doesn't make sense to me.
Just trying to raise a few red flags before you go out and blow this bitch up.... Chances are if it had low oil pressure before the problem didn't just magically fix itself...
First off, if you were only seeing 20-30psi of oil pressure that's a little on the low side. Not dreadfully low, but low none the less. It could be something as simple as the oil pump or the pressure sender but with 172K miles on the motor I'd say that your clearances are beginning to get a little on the loose side causing your lower oil pressure. Running a thicker oil will band-aid the problem for a little while but if it gets any lower, I'd probably suggest a rebuild in all honesty.
Now, the part that doesn't make sense to me...
What weight was the M1 you were using? I assume it was either 5W30 or 0W40? Changing oils (Unless that oil is a significantly higher viscosity) will not raise your oil pressure as you have stated, in your case even doubling it. Something is fishy there and doesn't make sense to me.
Just trying to raise a few red flags before you go out and blow this bitch up.... Chances are if it had low oil pressure before the problem didn't just magically fix itself...
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05-20-2009, 01:54 PM
#8
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the GC 0W30 acts more like a 30w at operating temp, most 5W30 oils will actually be closer to a 20w at operating temps... so it is "slightly" heavier at op temp iirc.
05-20-2009, 02:06 PM
#9
When I switched from M1 5W-30 to CG 0W-30 I noticed between a 5-7 PSI increase in pressure. On real hot days like 100 degree summer days it is about a 10 PSI increase. The M1 would drop noticeably below the 40 PSI mark on real hot days in traffic with the A/C on. The CG never comes close to approaching the 40 PSI mark at idle. It definitely quieted the valvetrain down but I can't say I noticed any increase in power. If anything the thinner M1 oil should give you more power over the thicker CG. Not like it would be much either way. When I switched my car had about 10000 miles on it so it was practically new.
05-20-2009, 05:08 PM
#10
In any regard, with oil pressures starting to drop off as they seem to be and 172k on the motor, I would start planning for a rebuild in the near future.
05-20-2009, 05:12 PM
#11
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Yeah, I know that the two oils will act like a slightly different viscosity but he is stating that his oil pressure nearly doubled... I would agree that a few psi would be accurate but that's a significant increase.
In any regard, with oil pressures starting to drop off as they seem to be and 172k on the motor, I would start planning for a rebuild in the near future.
In any regard, with oil pressures starting to drop off as they seem to be and 172k on the motor, I would start planning for a rebuild in the near future.
05-20-2009, 07:18 PM
#13
Whats been stopping you? Dont tell you adhere to the "I need 10psi per 1000RPM" wives tail..... 40-45 PSI is plenty, now if you don't reline it because it has 172k...Thats more reasonable
I found I can get the GC oil at autozone locally too when I looked the other day. Might try it just to try it, since I use Mobil 1.
Same thing I thought immediately...Just too lazy to get into it. 30wt should be 30wt, no matter what it is in the winter.
I found I can get the GC oil at autozone locally too when I looked the other day. Might try it just to try it, since I use Mobil 1.
Same thing I thought immediately...Just too lazy to get into it. 30wt should be 30wt, no matter what it is in the winter.
05-20-2009, 07:42 PM
#14
I've also seen a reasonable increase using Mobil-1 5W-40, switched to that a few years ago (handy 5qt jug at Wal-Mart) and never looked back.
05-20-2009, 07:45 PM
#15
Also, I swear it feels like I picked up about 10-15 rwhp. No proof of that but the sotp meter says so. My car is a lot more peppy and runs alot better now from just changing the oil. Now if only, it don't burn any like the M1 does, I'll be set for life with this oil.
05-20-2009, 09:28 PM
#16
There's plenty of data showing Mobil-1 5W-30 hot viscosity is way on the low end of "30W" spectrum whereas GCs is nearly in the 40W range. This accounts for pressure variation such as he's seeing.
I've also seen a reasonable increase using Mobil-1 5W-40, switched to that a few years ago (handy 5qt jug at Wal-Mart) and never looked back.
I've also seen a reasonable increase using Mobil-1 5W-40, switched to that a few years ago (handy 5qt jug at Wal-Mart) and never looked back.
I agree that M1 oil viscosity when warm is low. I've seen it. I've run many different types of oil through my cars and without fail M1 would ALWAYS drop off when warm. I've also played with many different viscosties/brands to quiet ticking down and none of them produced a significant change in oil pressure like he's describing.
I also agree with the SOTP feeling that the car feels a little quicker. I never disagreed with that. The reason you stated is accurate. However, it's more in the OP's head that in his ***... Everyone thinks their car feels better with fresh oil lol.
Anyways, the only point that I wanted to make in the very beginning was that 20-30 psi of oil pressure is a little low for my book, I don't care if he's running M1 5W30 or whatever else. With 172k on the clock and lower than average oil pressure, a rebuild is going to need to happen in the near future. Like I said, as long as the oil pump and pressure sending unit are in good working order, then the cause is engine wear. Simple. 20-30psi isn't necessarily alarming but it's well below average and should be looked at. Changing oil viscosities IS NOT solving the problem, it's just band-aiding it.
05-21-2009, 09:51 AM
#17
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This thread makes no sense.
First off, if you were only seeing 20-30psi of oil pressure that's a little on the low side. Not dreadfully low, but low none the less. It could be something as simple as the oil pump or the pressure sender but with 172K miles on the motor I'd say that your clearances are beginning to get a little on the loose side causing your lower oil pressure. Running a thicker oil will band-aid the problem for a little while but if it gets any lower, I'd probably suggest a rebuild in all honesty.
Now, the part that doesn't make sense to me...
What weight was the M1 you were using? I assume it was either 5W30 or 0W40? Changing oils (Unless that oil is a significantly higher viscosity) will not raise your oil pressure as you have stated, in your case even doubling it. Something is fishy there and doesn't make sense to me.
Just trying to raise a few red flags before you go out and blow this bitch up.... Chances are if it had low oil pressure before the problem didn't just magically fix itself...
First off, if you were only seeing 20-30psi of oil pressure that's a little on the low side. Not dreadfully low, but low none the less. It could be something as simple as the oil pump or the pressure sender but with 172K miles on the motor I'd say that your clearances are beginning to get a little on the loose side causing your lower oil pressure. Running a thicker oil will band-aid the problem for a little while but if it gets any lower, I'd probably suggest a rebuild in all honesty.
Now, the part that doesn't make sense to me...
What weight was the M1 you were using? I assume it was either 5W30 or 0W40? Changing oils (Unless that oil is a significantly higher viscosity) will not raise your oil pressure as you have stated, in your case even doubling it. Something is fishy there and doesn't make sense to me.
Just trying to raise a few red flags before you go out and blow this bitch up.... Chances are if it had low oil pressure before the problem didn't just magically fix itself...
05-21-2009, 09:40 PM
#18
Well I had a brand new oil pump put in about 20,000 miles ago so I know it's good. I was using the 5-30 M1 before the GC. I don't know what to tell you. All I did was change oil. It's about to go back on the dyno for a retune and I'll post up the numbers when done. We'll see how a well a 172,000 mile ls1 holds up. only time will tell. Damn Germans lol
I just wanted to convey that usually lower than average oil pressures on a high mileage car mean that the bearings are getting worn and that you're opening up your clearances a little. Usually that means a rebuild is around the corner somewhere. That's all.
Not trying to come across as a dick, just trying to help out a little.
