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Went to the Stealership, which Rod bolt do I need??

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Old 05-22-2009, 12:03 AM
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Arrow Went to the Stealership, which Rod bolt do I need??

I had lost one connecting rod bolt so went to the local GM stealership to get 2 new ones and they have 2 diff versions, one with a shoulder and one without....which is the one I need?

Bolt without shoulder....#12568069

Bolt with shoulder....#H11517807

Not sure what they mean by shoulder so trying to get a sure answer on here so I can order em.....98 vette LS1
Thanks
Old 05-22-2009, 11:35 AM
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Take an old one in and match it up.
Old 05-23-2009, 08:53 AM
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They dont carry them in stock, so I dont want to have him order one I dont need....I know some of you know what I'm talking about, where you at?? lol

Anybody got a pic of a rod bolt so I know what the shoulder or no shoulder looks like?
Old 05-23-2009, 10:12 AM
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97-middle year 00 LS1s came with ferruled rod bolts. later 00 and on LS1 motors came with the rod bolts without those damn PITA ferrules. Just order a set of ARP rod bolts. They may be the difference when it comes to spinning a bearing or not.
Old 05-23-2009, 11:33 AM
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If it was my motor I sure would have, but I am rebuilding it for a friend on a budget so I'm reusing them. The rods were already resized and I don't want ARP's because they are heavier than the stock replacements so I'm not risking this kids motor shaking and getting bitched at, and the Kartech's are just way too pricey.

I'm not sure what ferrules are? are they the cross hatch marks like on the starter bolts? (always wondered what they were for)

The 2 different part numbers I got from GM are both for 97-98's...except the 12568068 rod bolts went from 97-04....
Old 05-23-2009, 02:14 PM
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****, if you have to drop the pan and change one bolt, just get the set of ARPs and be done with it. It's absolutely silly to put one factory bolt back in after all that work to the heart/backbone of your engine. It's an extra, what $75-100, for piece of mind? Besides, you're already in there for a job that's 8-10 hrs book time. "While you're in there..." = famous last words though.

Seriously, order the ARPs and do 'em all since you've already taken the time to drop the pan and will already have the right tools in your hand.
Old 05-24-2009, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by jmilz28
****, if you have to drop the pan and change one bolt, just get the set of ARPs and be done with it. It's absolutely silly to put one factory bolt back in after all that work to the heart/backbone of your engine. It's an extra, what $75-100, for piece of mind? Besides, you're already in there for a job that's 8-10 hrs book time. "While you're in there..." = famous last words though.

Seriously, order the ARPs and do 'em all since you've already taken the time to drop the pan and will already have the right tools in your hand.
Thanks but guess you didn't read my above post?

"If it was my motor I sure would have (put in arp's), but I am rebuilding it for a friend on a budget so I'm reusing them. The rods were already resized and I don't want ARP's because they are heavier than the stock replacements so I'm not risking this kids motor shaking and getting bitched at, and the Kartech's are just way too pricey. "

Rebuilding meaning the engine is on a stand, crank and rods were already re-machined, and I had lost (misplaced) one rod bolt so I just need one replacement. I'm not getting aftermarket because of the weight or price issues...It's a budget rebearing/re-ring job. It won't be seeing the track it's more like a cruiser so no need for some anyway...

Soo who can help me find out with one of the two bolts I need?
Thank youu
Old 06-07-2009, 10:29 PM
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anyone? pleasee




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