nastychevelle

iTrader: (7)

what is it??? i need to know i plan on studding my heads but lost the directions

conan

iTrader: (5)

I used arp molly lube on the threads going in to the block and tightened them in with the allen key hole on the stud. The backed them off a 1/2 turn. A little arp lube on the nuts and torqued them down in GM's sequence to 85ft #'s, I think its been awhile.

vsocks1

iTrader: (6)

You have to torque the large bolts in sequence 3 times to final torque of 80 ft. lbs. with moly lube I was told. Then, you torque the small ones to 22 ft. lbs.
I then let the heads "settle" overnight and retorques them all in sequence. This is what I was told to do!

JFM-jr

iTrader: (23)

Here are some portions of a PM answered by member -Joseph- here who's posts here are always helpfull when I posed this same question to him:

you can add a very minute amount of torque to the stud to keep it from backing out, but I never worry about that as once it has torque on it; both sides of the stud aren't going anywhere.

With any Alum block, a retorque helps out after a few heat cycles, but isn't necessary. I go back over them on the engine stand an extra pass at final torque as usually the middle 6 studs/bolts will settle in as the outer bolts are torqued.

I use the factory torque pattern but with ARP studs or bolts I use stepped torque values, 30-50-70 for bolts, and 35-55-80 lb ft for studs; both with ARP lube. The bevel on the washer goes up towards the ARP nut.

and regarding the smaller studs up near the intake:

23lb ft with moly lube or 28lb ft without. I often just use oil on those bolts as they are not as critical for torque settings, and it seems the under-intake location attracts dirt; so lack of moly seems to make less mess the next time you tear it down.


This info was helpfull to me and I dont think he will mind my sharing it.