metal shavings in oil.
06-25-2009, 10:06 PM
#1
metal shavings in oil. did a change today and found some small shavings on the plug 
so i wonder how serious it could be, car seems to be running fine, has about 35k on the engine.
how much do most ppl charge for a shortblock? how about an ls2 shortblock? would it be a good idea to swap my 241 heads and everything over to the ls2 shortblock?
so i wonder how serious it could be, car seems to be running fine, has about 35k on the engine.
how much do most ppl charge for a shortblock? how about an ls2 shortblock? would it be a good idea to swap my 241 heads and everything over to the ls2 shortblock?
06-26-2009, 03:39 AM
#5
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Always have a small amount of metal myself. If its chunks you have issues. Mine is usally a super fine graphite lubricant like substance.
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06-26-2009, 06:43 PM
#8
I was under my car and found a crack in my oil pan too....i think i bottomed out and hit the pan and thats how it cracked, it wasnt bad....i could get it welded, what material is the oil pan?
06-26-2009, 07:04 PM
#9
The oil pan is aluminum, you would have to remove it to have it repaired, may be easier and cheaper to find a used one.
Fine metal is normal, its chunks you need to worry about. Another good (and cheap) thing to do is to buy a filter cutter(Jegs and CAT sell good ones) and cut your filter open after it dries out the cut out a section and spread it out like an acordian and look for shavings in the element. I work on Heavy Equipment and thats how we check for obvious failures, as well as oil samples.
Fine metal is normal, its chunks you need to worry about. Another good (and cheap) thing to do is to buy a filter cutter(Jegs and CAT sell good ones) and cut your filter open after it dries out the cut out a section and spread it out like an acordian and look for shavings in the element. I work on Heavy Equipment and thats how we check for obvious failures, as well as oil samples.
06-26-2009, 07:42 PM
#10
The oil pan is aluminum, you would have to remove it to have it repaired, may be easier and cheaper to find a used one.
Fine metal is normal, its chunks you need to worry about. Another good (and cheap) thing to do is to buy a filter cutter(Jegs and CAT sell good ones) and cut your filter open after it dries out the cut out a section and spread it out like an acordian and look for shavings in the element. I work on Heavy Equipment and thats how we check for obvious failures, as well as oil samples.
Fine metal is normal, its chunks you need to worry about. Another good (and cheap) thing to do is to buy a filter cutter(Jegs and CAT sell good ones) and cut your filter open after it dries out the cut out a section and spread it out like an acordian and look for shavings in the element. I work on Heavy Equipment and thats how we check for obvious failures, as well as oil samples.
06-27-2009, 04:08 PM
#11
im hearing a bit of a thud when i rev it and let it go back down to an idle, it just goes thud, thud.....doesnt always do it. if it matters, when i changed oil i went to 5w-30 instead of 10w-30 i usually run, i run LUCUS full synthetic, they were out of the 10w.
06-27-2009, 04:52 PM
#12
The reason that the manufactures put an oil weight is because of how soon and how easy they want the oil to rung through an orifice and coat a surface. The 2 weight oils are new made by adding polymers to the petroleum. The 10 is how the oil will run when its cold and 30 is the way it will run when its hot. Now in newer cars is not so bad unless its a hp engine ans specifically asks for a specific oil weight only. Also it has to do where u live in colder climates if its ok the 5 weight helps it flow faster when u first turn it on. If your talking about ur 88 then it is critical u use the 10 30 if specified because the older engines need a little more viscosity to keep that protective film between the cylinder wall and the piston rings. While rare the 5-30 viscosity modifiers can break down in these older engines and form a film of carbon on the cylinder walls.You can use it but at your own risk. The thud could be something complete different that has nothing to do with the oil.
06-27-2009, 05:40 PM
#13
The reason that the manufactures put an oil weight is because of how soon and how easy they want the oil to rung through an orifice and coat a surface. The 2 weight oils are new made by adding polymers to the petroleum. The 10 is how the oil will run when its cold and 30 is the way it will run when its hot. Now in newer cars is not so bad unless its a hp engine ans specifically asks for a specific oil weight only. Also it has to do where u live in colder climates if its ok the 5 weight helps it flow faster when u first turn it on. If your talking about ur 88 then it is critical u use the 10 30 if specified because the older engines need a little more viscosity to keep that protective film between the cylinder wall and the piston rings. While rare the 5-30 viscosity modifiers can break down in these older engines and form a film of carbon on the cylinder walls.You can use it but at your own risk. The thud could be something complete different that has nothing to do with the oil.
06-27-2009, 06:54 PM
#14
Well I have the same engine and I have never experimented. I am pushing 440 rwhp and I have always used one of the two oils either the Valvoline 10W30 racing the high Zinc content because I don't have cats when I take her to the track, and the RP 10W30 for daily driving. People say not to but when I am not at the track I use the RP 10W30 5.5qt and 1 qt of the Lucas Synthetic oil stabilizer. I have been doing that since my head/cam and my mech said it helps with cold engine starts and so on. The car works great and I don't see any shavings in my oil or my plug which is magnetic.
I have never had issues with the metal shavings but I am also running a deep pan with a Melling HO +18% oil pump to make sure there is always pressure and oil and every 6K miles I take the whole pan off and wipe it clean. 80K+ on the clock.
I have never had issues with the metal shavings but I am also running a deep pan with a Melling HO +18% oil pump to make sure there is always pressure and oil and every 6K miles I take the whole pan off and wipe it clean. 80K+ on the clock.
06-28-2009, 11:22 AM
#15
I dont think you can mig aluminum, I think you have to tig it. It needs to be removed to be done correctly, should be welded in and out and if you just weld the outside in could leave small debris in the oil, like I said, its easier to pick up a used pan and swap it out.
06-28-2009, 05:06 PM
#16
you can mig aluminum, ive done it, im going to school for welding right now, im only one quarter in, ill ask my welding instrctor about welding it from the outside, maybe a little bit of preheat would make sure there is no oil trapped in during welding.
I dont think you can mig aluminum, I think you have to tig it. It needs to be removed to be done correctly, should be welded in and out and if you just weld the outside in could leave small debris in the oil, like I said, its easier to pick up a used pan and swap it out.
06-28-2009, 05:29 PM
#17
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I wouldnt risk welding it personally from the outside. If you had to I would do it with a tig and do it one puddle at a time, letting it cool down.
