the jester 812

iTrader: (5)

damn, i cant believe this. i have the worst luck ever. i have done plenty of cam swaps, and never used dowels. then last time a lifter fell into the oil pan, huge job getting that back. so this time i decided to use dowels like EEEEEEVERY one says to do. well now i have a damn stick of wood stuck in my engine. i searched and everyone said to use 7/16ths well that was to big so i used 3/8ths and the passenger side was tight but it pulled out after some hard tugging. but no such luck with the driver side. so i had to pull the head, and am currently trying to pull the lifters out. but of course they are smashed in tight by the dowel. i got 2 out by grabbing them insanely tight with a pair of vise grips and a crow bar. but the last few in the back are a no go. does anyone else have any suggestions? the dowel is about to snap off flush

Damian

iTrader: (89)

You do not use 7/16 or 3/8. You use 5/16. It's been stated in at least 100 threads on this site alone that the dowel size to use is 5/16. You aren't suffering from bad luck. You're suffering from a mistake.

Do not try to yank the lifters past the rod. The rod will come out.

the jester 812

iTrader: (5)

i tried everything to get that rod out, and it just frayed up. and now im worried that my block is no good because the 2 lifters that came out had metal shavings on them where they scrapped against the lifter bore on the way out

hirdlej

iTrader: (31)

Haste makes waste..... Step back, think about it, take an intelligent approach to it, not a hack and rip approach. Show us some picture so we can help you out.

Damian

iTrader: (89)

You can't hurt the motor they way that you're thinking. Worse case you'll probably need to buy/replace the lifters. Would be a good time for an LS7 upgrade anyway. Might also be a good idea to drain the oil out, put some cheap oil in, run it for 1 or 2 heat cycles, and then drain it again. That'll get the shavings out.

Try rocking the dowel back and forth. Also, if you have a pair of Vise grips, tighten them as tight as they'll go to where it's almost impossible to clamp down on the dowel (but will still clamp down). Once this is done, lightly tap on the vise grips right at the head, which will apply the most force. If they're on tight enough, they won't let go to light taps from the hammer. This should get the rods out.

I've never been in this situation before, but that'd be how I would remove them if I was. Good luck.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Don't use wood. Use metal dowels and 5/16" is correct. You might have to pull the heads. If you play Rock/Paper/Sissors you know metal is harder than wood so if you get the dowels out you and you just leave a few wood shavings behind you might just take your chances. Personally, I wouldn't gamble. This makes the Russian Roulette method sound better and better.

Hi-Po

iTrader: (4)

the metal is also 105 bucks. Using 5/16 dowel works fine. This is just a mistake. Ide be bumming also, but I think I would be kicking myself in the *** moreso.

the jester 812

iTrader: (5)

the dowel is splintered all up from clamping down on it with vise grips. i have gotten a few lifters out by clamping down on them super hard. what I'm concerned about is when the lifters came out they had metal shavings on the ridges. i guess the dowel has them pressed against the sides of the lifter bore so hard its scraping all the way out. im ready to just pull the engine and get something else, i have never been so frustrated, even when the lifter fell into the oil pan at least i knew what had to be done.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Because you used a dowel that has a diameter that is too large the lifter are being pinned against the sides of their bores. This is a nightmare. Can you try turning the lifters as you pull up on them to try and eat away at the wood that has them captured. You have to knaw away at the wood a little at a time like a mouse eating a piece of cheese. This is going to take some time to accomplish. You don't have much choice at this time. That's what I would try. The 5/16" metal dowels are only $5 each at Home Depot. The JPR tool is $100. I have both. The dowels work better on some cam swaps and then the JPR tool works better on others. It's trial and error on which tool will work best on any particular engine. I don't believe these gun driiled hole were intended by GM to be used for cam swaps. As a matter of fact if you read the GM factory manual(Helm) it tells you to pull the heads and intake to do a cam swap(way too much unnecessary work). No mention is ever made about putting any kind of rod in the engine to keep the lifters up during a cam swap.

the jester 812

iTrader: (5)

^^^^ thank you a ton, do you think i have done harm to my engine by yanking the 2 lifters out that i have already? it had a few slivers of metal on the ridge of the lifter.

firstinlastout86

iTrader: (4)

105 bucks!!!!!???????for 5/16 metal? go to auto parts store and ask for 5/16 brake line... a 4 foot piece cost me 7 bucks id never put a thin piece of wood in my block..IMO

the jester 812

iTrader: (5)

ooorrrr what if next time (new engine, this ones coming out) what if i used something like 5/16ths rubber hose, that wont splinter like these did, and can collapse, and wont soak up oil like this did and swell. would there be anything wrong with using 5/16ths hose.

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

I used a pair of 5/16" wooden dowels, but the pass side was tight. Next time, I'll use "firstinlastout86's" trick of using brake line along with flattening one side into a "D" shape so it goes in easier.

Russ

69_YENKO

iTrader: (16)

Did you ever get it out?

Chrome355z

iTrader: (1)

This is what I did. Brake line "D-Shaped" FTW. I stuck these in a corner in my garage anytime I need to do a Cam Swap.

DaddySS

I used 5/16 aluminum rod from home depot, cost like $5. Flattened one side a bit with a grinder and file and then bent the ends - works great.

Unfortunately I don't have any advice for how to get you out of your current dilemna.

Prerun4fun13

iTrader: (6)

damn wouldnt your first sign that you were doing something wrong was when the dowls were hard to push in????

It sounds like it can be fixed but i would take the car to an experienced LSX mechanic.

Kurtomac

iTrader: (5)

what do the dowels even do and how to they "hold" the lifters up? Where on the lifters do they touch? Ive used pen magnets in the past and Im doing another swap this coming weekend on my brothers vette and if this is a better option I'll use this
Wonder if Lowes carries the cheap Aluminum rods...I know they carry wood...5/16 is the magic number huh?

69_YENKO

iTrader: (16)

they fit in the machined stepped down in the middle of the lifter body physically keeping the lifter from slipping down. I would say its the best choice if you want to know for certain the lifter aren't going to drop.

I picked up my rods a lowes for like 10$, I used a 5/16" cold rolled steel rod, then hit one side of the rod with a grinder to put a slight flat spot in it. Be sure to use 5/16"

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

I used 5/16" metal rods as well.