Quickin

Had a partial leakdown test done on a couple cylinders and the air was shooting out my filler cap like a 200mph leaf-blower.

So, the rings are GONE.

Guess it wasn't the tune after all.

The re-ringing should begin on Friday.

Later.

BTW, the Random Tech high-flow cats are now gutted.

JF WS6

Awesome dude, glad you got it figured out and underway - also glad to hear you gutted the clogged up cats.... I knew it wasn't only the tune, but you have to admit that it didn't help and it certainly wasn't right.

Good luck man, post up your new numbers once everything is freshened up and tuned with that new cam and reworked heads.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

In brief what are the details of the story?

Was it under ARE warranty?

Is ARE taking care of the issue under warranty etc?

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Hope it all works out let us know what had to be done so we can learn.

Chicago Crew UnderBoss

iTrader: (1)

Best of luck on getting that baby screamin, performing and holding up the way a 15K motor SHOULD!

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

Quickin, what's your bore x stroke specs? Thanks man.

Quickin

Thanks, we'll know soon enough what else is wrong inside. Although I doubt anything is wrong as it runs too perfect when driven normally.

99 Blackbird T/A,

In brief what are the details of the story?
Mike Norris installed a fully assembled motor from intake to oil pan that I bought from ARE (my 436), when I picked the car up it ran friggin strong as hell and I was overwhelmed with it. Pulled 485 RWHP @ 5,000 rpm and the run was aborted (still had the stock fuel pump and couldn't get a full pull). I ordered a Racetronix fuel system and waited a month and a half for it. When I drove the 150 mile trip home I was 2 qrts low on oil when I arrived. From day one it burned about 1.5 qrts every 300 miles or so. And thats with absolutely no WOT runs, I couldn't go over 5,000 rpm because of the loss of fuel pressure at 5,000. So my oil problem was not from me, my tune or my driving, the rings just didn't seat right or maybe it was an install issue.

Was it under ARE warranty?
Yes, the motor was delivered Oct. 2002. I'm still under warranty.


Is ARE taking care of the issue under warranty etc?
NO, by choice. I received about a dozen e-mails from people telling me that they sent there ARE motors (still under warranty) back for repair work only to get a huge bill for the repairs. Its just too easy to blame the problems on me or my tune, or whatever, and I don't have thousands of dollars to send them. So I'd rather have Mike Norris do everything, this way I know exactly whats in there and exactly what its gonna have in there. There's a whole lot more to my story concerning ARE but there's no need to post about it anymore.

One thing to note; My problems in the beginning all started with Nick Agostino's lies and deception, my motor took 10 months to get delivered, it was promised by Nick in 3-4 weeks. When Wade found out that I wanted my money back in month 10, he took care of me pretty quick, explained that Nick was no longer with them and got me my motor in like 1 week. He wasn't really aware of what Nick was doing, whatever the hell it was that he was doing with my money for 10 months. Now I would have liked Wade to just say send me your motor and we will take care of it fully UNDER WARRANTY and send it back, AT NO COST TO ME. Its not like fixing my motor would put them into bankruptcy.

Quickin

I couldn't tell you. I do have a 242/242 .610/.610 114 lsa cam. I think I'm gonna put a 248/248 113 lsa in it. Also gonna have the heads looked at and re-ported if needed. I'd like to get the Nasty Performance intake with DP nitrous, set up with a 300 shot, progressivley controlled.

Or, at least have the nitrous put on my LS6 intake if I don't get the Nasty intake.

Damian

iTrader: (89)

Quickin, why are you running single pattern cams if you plan on spraying a big shot? You need to be running a healthy split, which will compliment the nitrous and make a LOT more TQ. IMO you're leaving power on the table trying to spray a 300 shot on top of a single pattern cam. Maybe try something like this: 244/250 .6xx/.6xx 113. That would idle similar to the 248/248, little more lope but would also make more TQ on the juice. JMO

Josh

Quickin

Man, I know nothing about this stuff. Someone mentioned that cam before I talked about the nitrous, so I'm sure he'll tell me the best one to go with.

I'd hate to lose the idle quality I have right now, the damn thing really idles like stock.
I plan to only use the nitrous from HWY rolls, I won't be going to the track with this car at all. Maybe once to see what she'll do.

So, what cam would be good for basically normal driving 7 days a week and maybe just a few shots per week.?

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

Quickin, what did you plan to shift your current cam at?

Damian

iTrader: (89)

Quickin, when you get up into the 300 shot range, you NEED to cam for it. A single pattern isn't what you want when you're pushing that much nitrous through the motor. Nitrous needs a lot of exhaust duration, which is why a standing split duration is relevant. If you're 244/244 idles like stock, the 244/250 won't idle much different being on a 113. It doesn't have to be those exact cam specs, but definately consider some type of split duration and just bring the LSA up a little bit to help your idle quality. You shouldn't have any problems as long as you stay around 250 degrees of duration or under.

BTW, you got the wrong transmission in that car for good highway roll racing

Josh

Nasty N8

iTrader: (33)

Great to hear you will be up and running soon. Your car will run great on that 248 cam leave it at that. I know what you want to use the car for and thats how I would set it up.

Talk at ya Nate

Quickin

Will the 244/250 also be just fine and make allot of power while N/A. What do you mean bring the LSA up a little, does bringing it up mean 113 to a 114 or the other way around?

What tranny would be better for the HWY?

Quickin

I may have to get your intake in a couple months, $$$ are running low right now.

Did you ever get the new dyno numbers for the 427 hyd cammed motor?

Got Me SOM

iTrader: (2)

tightening the lsa means going up numerically in number.

They're right with a reverse split cam you can make better power on the sauce.

Should be pretty wicked.

I'm taking her for a ride right

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

What lift were you thinking of running on the 248/248 113?

383ss

iTrader: (14)

how do you plan on holding that kind of power on the street wiht a 300 shot???? it's not gonna happen with a "street" tire!!!

Damian

iTrader: (89)

I am most definately positive you'll make MORE N/A power with the 244/250, and more on the juice. Split durations are my cam of choice for any application. Most of the quickest LS1's in the country run split duration cams. Futral, LG, and Cartek to name a few that build the fastest LS1's using splits...

When I say bring the LSA "up", I am talking about numerically making it higher. IE: 113-114. That will retain the tame idle you want, while giving you the ability to run the split w/out driveability loss. Do not get me wrong, the split is going to lope a tad harder, but on a 113-114 it'll be a small change.

You need an M6 for racing on the street brother. A4's suck for highway rolls. If you took your same exact car now, and raced it against your same exact car with a 6 speed from a 55 mph punch, you would lose to the M6. If you don't plan on the track like you said earlier, I would seriously consider an M6 swap. Street racing is my game as well, and I have never been impressed with any of the modded A4's, they fall on their face after 3rd as to where the M6 can pull strong all the way through 5th. JMO

Josh

Quickin

BFG drags from a roll and the shot coming on progressively.