pauls99z28

iTrader: (32)

my stock cubed ls1 for a 6.0. whats interchangeable and what will i need to purchase in order for the swap. any info is greatly appreciated.

Gaunt

iTrader: (11)

LQ4, LQ9, LS2?

If it's a truck motor, you need to switch your intake manifold and oil pan. If it's an LS2, you need to get an LS2 conversion kit from TSP or somewhere similar (I think a few sensors have different locations). I know for my LQ9, we have to tap a new hole to mount the alternator.

pauls99z28

iTrader: (32)

Thanks alot. That helped me alot. now to find a motor.

pauls99z28

iTrader: (32)

anyone else have some info on 6.0l swaps?

pauls99z28

iTrader: (32)

ttt.....

Gaunt

iTrader: (11)

i've got to say, it's a little difficult finding pertinent information like that on these boards. Try running through the search function a little more specifically, and you might find what you need, but don't count on it.

In general, people use the lq4/lq9 for a budget motor and forced induction (iron blocks) ls2 is more expensive, but lighter, has ls6 heads (243 castings for the sake of argument). The lq4 has around a 9.5:1 compression ratio, but the lq9 made up for it with flat top pistons that pushed the conpression ratio up to ~10.1:1 which is closer to stock ls1 compression.

Ugh, what else...it's pretty much the lsx engine we all know and love... Just more
cubes, and depending if iron block, ~80 lbs heavier

edit: there is a thread that I just saw that might answer your question above

shtnfrds

iTrader: (1)

you don't HAVE to tap a new hole for the 3rd alt. bolt, you can use just the two that line up.

that being said I don't/never had a 6.0 swap so i'm going off info that i have read from this site previously.

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

If you do not drill and tap, you will only have ONE bolt on the front side of that iron block functional for your alternator. Then you'll also of course have the one on the back of the alternator.

Here's an image to help for those who are curious or haven't done it. The lower green spot is already drill and tapped out of the box. The red hole, will not be functional since it goes into the sleeve/water. Don't mess with it Then the higher of the green dots is where there is a thick boss present that needs to be drilled and tapped for your 2nd bolt on the front of the bracket.

That help? I've added an aluminum block photo as well, with the same holes colored in so you can see the difference.

shtnfrds

iTrader: (1)

ohhhhh, i was under the impression that the top green hole was ALREADY threaded. I would have learned eventualy. I plan on running an iron 6.0 when the stocker ka-booms...

good to know ahead of time!!

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

Yep, many folks have that impression that it's drilled already and are disappointed when it's time to go. Spread the word

pauls99z28

iTrader: (32)

So will i need a new computer and harness for the 6.0 l swap?