Stock Bore LS1 Ring End Gap
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Stock Bore LS1 Ring End Gap
I have a stock bore ls1, just had the machine shop hone the cylinder walls true. I am going back together with it, and when fitting my rings I am getting .020-.021 on my top 2 rings. GM factory specs are top ring 0.009-0.017 and 2nd ring 0.017-0.027 . That seems a little off to me.
I guess what im trying to find out is, would that cause a problem? Should I get a set of oversized rings? The rings I have are Sealed Power P/N-E938K. Anyone have any suggestions?
I guess what im trying to find out is, would that cause a problem? Should I get a set of oversized rings? The rings I have are Sealed Power P/N-E938K. Anyone have any suggestions?
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LSxGuy widda 9sec Mustang
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That is ever so slightly loose for a N/A buildup, would it cause problems; probably nothing noticeable at all. I typically like stock shortblock rings in the .016-.018" range for the Top and .018-.020" for the 2nd, usually using about .002" spread Top to 2nd (.020" top .022" 2nd and so forth), as this variance will help alleviate ring flutter.
A simple formula for N/A street-type Top ring gap is .0045" x bore.
3.898" bore x .0045 = ~.018"
I think in my own LS1, my gaps using those sealed power rings out of the box were .020" Top and .028" 2nd, never gave it a 2nd thought. You can always file-to-fit using the .005" oversized rings, but I doubt the legwork is worth the effort.
A simple formula for N/A street-type Top ring gap is .0045" x bore.
3.898" bore x .0045 = ~.018"
I think in my own LS1, my gaps using those sealed power rings out of the box were .020" Top and .028" 2nd, never gave it a 2nd thought. You can always file-to-fit using the .005" oversized rings, but I doubt the legwork is worth the effort.
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That is ever so slightly loose for a N/A buildup, would it cause problems; probably nothing noticeable at all. I typically like stock shortblock rings in the .016-.018" range for the Top and .018-.020" for the 2nd, usually using about .002" spread Top to 2nd (.020" top .022" 2nd and so forth), as this variance will help alleviate ring flutter.
A simple formula for N/A street-type Top ring gap is .0045" x bore.
3.898" bore x .0045 = ~.018"
I think in my own LS1, my gaps using those sealed power rings out of the box were .020" Top and .028" 2nd, never gave it a 2nd thought. You can always file-to-fit using the .005" oversized rings, but I doubt the legwork is worth the effort.
A simple formula for N/A street-type Top ring gap is .0045" x bore.
3.898" bore x .0045 = ~.018"
I think in my own LS1, my gaps using those sealed power rings out of the box were .020" Top and .028" 2nd, never gave it a 2nd thought. You can always file-to-fit using the .005" oversized rings, but I doubt the legwork is worth the effort.
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That is ever so slightly loose for a N/A buildup, would it cause problems; probably nothing noticeable at all. I typically like stock shortblock rings in the .016-.018" range for the Top and .018-.020" for the 2nd, usually using about .002" spread Top to 2nd (.020" top .022" 2nd and so forth), as this variance will help alleviate ring flutter.
A simple formula for N/A street-type Top ring gap is .0045" x bore.
3.898" bore x .0045 = ~.018"
I think in my own LS1, my gaps using those sealed power rings out of the box were .020" Top and .028" 2nd, never gave it a 2nd thought. You can always file-to-fit using the .005" oversized rings, but I doubt the legwork is worth the effort.
A simple formula for N/A street-type Top ring gap is .0045" x bore.
3.898" bore x .0045 = ~.018"
I think in my own LS1, my gaps using those sealed power rings out of the box were .020" Top and .028" 2nd, never gave it a 2nd thought. You can always file-to-fit using the .005" oversized rings, but I doubt the legwork is worth the effort.