Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

piston ring failure?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-07-2009, 09:42 AM
  #1  
Launching!
Thread Starter
 
jetblast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: nj, edison
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default piston ring failure?

what exactly are the properties and symptoms of ring failure in a stock ls1?
besides dismantling the block, what are some steps you can take to find out?

the reason i ask, is because i have been blowing my diptstick out ever so slightly, spraying from 100-150 shots. i stil have the stock pvc with a recently added home made catch can.

the motor seems fine, my mph have not dropped at the 1/4. i also pulled 15hg steady vacuum at idle. just recently performed a compression test and the results were suspicious but outstanding. 82kmiles on the engine with lots of 1/4 passes. so far this season, i have 28 on 100w no progression and two 150w no progression.
engine was idled to 220f and stopped at 4 pumps going by the gauge.

8,6 195psi , the rest were 200psi. should i continue to pummel the motor? it's not my daily driver.
Old 11-07-2009, 09:54 AM
  #2  
12 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
 
SweetS10V8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,580
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

You need to do a leak down test, not a compression test. That will tell you if you have rings failing.
Old 11-07-2009, 10:08 AM
  #3  
Launching!
Thread Starter
 
jetblast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: nj, edison
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by SweetS10V8
You need to do a leak down test, not a compression test. That will tell you if you have rings failing.
i thought that was next. i got get a compressor and the guage.
so how would a bad ring show up? would the cylinder leak quicker than the rest? might as well ck. the low ones first, right ?.
thanks for relplying.
Old 11-07-2009, 10:17 AM
  #4  
Launching!
Thread Starter
 
jetblast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: nj, edison
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

how big of a compressor is necessary to do the ck accurately?
Old 11-07-2009, 10:53 AM
  #5  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
conan's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Back in the Burg
Posts: 6,492
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts

Default

You dont need a big compressor to do a leak down test. When you do a leak down test turn the radio off and listen for the leaking air. Pull your oil fill cap off and see if you have air coming out of the crank case for bad rings. If its coming out of the intake or exhaust you have valve problems. If your coolant is bubbling you have bad head gaskets or a cracked block.
Old 11-07-2009, 11:47 AM
  #6  
12 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
 
SweetS10V8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,580
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by conan
You dont need a big compressor to do a leak down test. When you do a leak down test turn the radio off and listen for the leaking air. Pull your oil fill cap off and see if you have air coming out of the crank case for bad rings. If its coming out of the intake or exhaust you have valve problems. If your coolant is bubbling you have bad head gaskets or a cracked block.
Old 11-07-2009, 12:14 PM
  #7  
Launching!
Thread Starter
 
jetblast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: nj, edison
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

i'm expecting to have leakage at the rings. like the compression test, if they all leak the same or close within what %?
i've read so many threads of guys blowing their dipstick out with fi or n2o, with relatively fresh engines on stock stuff.
i'm gonna do the leak ck. but, if my compression ck. came out ok. assuming the valves, gasket, block, and vacuum are ideal, shouldn't i expect similar results or is it possible to have good compression and say 40% leakage?. thanks a lot for discussing this with me guys.
Old 11-07-2009, 12:24 PM
  #8  
FormerVendor
 
racer7088's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Houston, Tx.
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts

Default

You might have a small hole in a piston or some stuck rings with any NOS use at all so you can find out pretty quick with a leak down. A compression test will also show something if you are way off as well but leak down is probably a lil better.
Old 11-07-2009, 12:32 PM
  #9  
Launching!
Thread Starter
 
jetblast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: nj, edison
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by racer7088
You might have a small hole in a piston or some stuck rings with any NOS use at all so you can find out pretty quick with a leak down. A compression test will also show something if you are way off as well but leak down is probably a lil better.
so hypothetically, if i have a small hole or damaged ring{ stuck ring}, wouldn't i be down in power, and wouldn't it show up on my trap speeds? i have a scope that i used and did not see any obvious abnormalities in the top of the pistons.
Old 11-07-2009, 12:40 PM
  #10  
Launching!
Thread Starter
 
jetblast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: nj, edison
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

another small bit of info on the engine, is that i have been doing it for quite some time. ever since i began spraying 100 and the 150. the dipstick comes out just a little, not shooting all the way out.
i have been logging and tuning very concervative. the engine took 28 passes with a 100w no progression this season and a couple of 150w so far. i mean if i had a vacuum pump, wouldn't the the trap speeds be my first clue?
Old 11-07-2009, 12:45 PM
  #11  
FormerVendor
 
racer7088's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Houston, Tx.
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts

Arrow

Originally Posted by jetblast
so hypothetically, if i have a small hole or damaged ring{ stuck ring}, wouldn't i be down in power, and wouldn't it show up on my trap speeds? i have a scope that i used and did not see any obvious abnormalities in the top of the pistons.
If you aren't down much on power or anything else then you might just need a better breather system and maybe back off the timing a bit. Detonation puts way more pressure in the crankcase but these aluminum blocks are not all that so you may just have normal blowby for that engine when spraying.
Old 11-07-2009, 01:44 PM
  #12  
Launching!
Thread Starter
 
jetblast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: nj, edison
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by racer7088
If you aren't down much on power or anything else then you might just need a better breather system and maybe back off the timing a bit. Detonation puts way more pressure in the crankcase but these aluminum blocks are not all that so you may just have normal blowby for that engine when spraying.
you must be Erik ... the timing and fuel definitely have made a noticeable difference. for example: i had one track event that i kept leaning it out to the point of kr, the dipstick blew out further than ever, backed it off . i was running 18* on the 100w.
i have always used my low oct. table as my back up so kr attack kicks in hard. so generally speaking, if i keep the afr at around 12 inital and kreeps down to about 11.2 with 18* trap speeds are normal. i'm just looking to spray the 200 once or twice and call it a day. the more info i get on the state of the engine will give me a fatter learning curve.
i know you set up a few guys with a 396, right?. i'm just a street strip guy. i figured a 376 ls3 would be my next small step.
Old 11-08-2009, 08:52 AM
  #13  
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
 
BlownChevySS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SOFLO
Posts: 298
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

A small 5 gal compressor will work and you dont have to buy a gauge either. Set the piston at TDC and perform a leakdown. The compressor should have a regulator, just set it around 40 psi at first then start moving it up until you start hearing a leak. Since you have the compression tester, just remove the schrader valve from the end of the hose and hook that up to the air line from the compressor. When you do this, the motor will turn so wedge the breaker bar or ratchet or whatever you use so the crank won't spin. I did this on my Silverado and had air into the crankcase and through my intake. Good luck!
Old 11-08-2009, 09:28 AM
  #14  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
 
SOMbitch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 6,881
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Putting a piece of hose over the dipstick tube will help you listen to the crankcase and don't be concerned if the leakage is as high as 15%-17%.
Old 11-08-2009, 09:58 AM
  #15  
Launching!
Thread Starter
 
jetblast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: nj, edison
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by BlownChevySS
A small 5 gal compressor will work and you dont have to buy a gauge either. Set the piston at TDC and perform a leakdown. The compressor should have a regulator, just set it around 40 psi at first then start moving it up until you start hearing a leak. Since you have the compression tester, just remove the schrader valve from the end of the hose and hook that up to the air line from the compressor. When you do this, the motor will turn so wedge the breaker bar or ratchet or whatever you use so the crank won't spin. I did this on my Silverado and had air into the crankcase and through my intake. Good luck!
thanks for the info. too late though. i made a simple leak ck. gauge for 30$, and got a small 4 gal. compressor. i am using the compression hose like you said. i hope my 3 ft long torque wrench is good enough to hold it still.

Originally Posted by SOMbitch
Putting a piece of hose over the dipstick tube will help you listen to the crankcase and don't be concerned if the leakage is as high as 15%-17%.
hell, i'll be happy if they have similar leakage... if it's 25% what i'm to do?
thanks for the info!.
Old 11-08-2009, 11:53 AM
  #16  
12 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
 
SweetS10V8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,580
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by jetblast
if it's 25% what i'm to do?
thanks for the info!.
Fix where its leaking.
Old 11-08-2009, 05:20 PM
  #17  
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
 
BlownChevySS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SOFLO
Posts: 298
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

A leak is a leak and will probably only get worse so even if its 5% you should still fix the problem even if it means you got tear apart the motor
Old 11-08-2009, 05:26 PM
  #18  
Launching!
Thread Starter
 
jetblast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: nj, edison
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

i'll be doing the leak ck. this wk... see you then!
Old 11-08-2009, 06:23 PM
  #19  
12 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
 
SweetS10V8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,580
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by BlownChevySS
A leak is a leak and will probably only get worse so even if its 5% you should still fix the problem even if it means you got tear apart the motor
10% is completley acceptable..Your looking for one that leaks dramatically more than the others.
Old 11-08-2009, 07:14 PM
  #20  
Launching!
 
tom falco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Leak down on a race engine is somewhere around 2-5% On a street motor if its 12% the motor is acceptable. Over 15% the motor is starting to get tired. You will nead an air supply of over 100 lbs at all times to get a proper reading. You can use one of those pancake jobs because they provide adequate cfm and run over 125 lbs. All cylinders should be fairly equal on a leak down. You cant listen to a leak down and determin if something is wrong. Unless its drastic.


Quick Reply: piston ring failure?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:25 PM.