proper first-time start-up procedures
11-09-2009, 08:05 PM
#1
proper first-time start-up procedures I'm going to be turning the key on my swap here in a week or so, and I need to know what all I need to do to make sure that nothing bad happens to my brand new block lol.
Obviously it's a brand new block, so there has never been any oil ran through it. The engine builder used assembly lube like you're supposed to, but no motor oil has been ran through it since it's never been run before. Also, the fuel lines are brand new too so there's no fuel in there either.
If you could please enlighten me on what needs to be done that would be awesome. Be as specific as humanly possible, like, do you fill the oil filter up with oil before installing, do you take a quart of oil and pour across each cylinder head, how do you prime the fuel system without actually starting the motor? Stuff like that would be good to know I think.
Obviously it's a brand new block, so there has never been any oil ran through it. The engine builder used assembly lube like you're supposed to, but no motor oil has been ran through it since it's never been run before. Also, the fuel lines are brand new too so there's no fuel in there either.
If you could please enlighten me on what needs to be done that would be awesome. Be as specific as humanly possible, like, do you fill the oil filter up with oil before installing, do you take a quart of oil and pour across each cylinder head, how do you prime the fuel system without actually starting the motor? Stuff like that would be good to know I think.
11-09-2009, 08:15 PM
#2
I always fill the oil filter up before screwing it on. other than that i'm out. on sbc's there's a tool you stick in the dist. hole to spin the motor over to help lube it a bit
11-09-2009, 08:22 PM
#4
The fuel pump will prime the lines when you turn the key to the "ON" position.
I've always wondered about starting an engine for the first time. I don't know, but I would think that the assembly lube slowly over time will run off all the parts, just like oil will do over time.
I know one guy that had a 427ci LSx built early last year and he installed a "pre-oiler". It would jack the entire engine with oil pressure and all parts would get lubed before he turned the key. Pretty cool. But I have no idea how much that cost to put on the engine, I know it wasn't a whole lot.
But its pretty cool to never have engine wear from cold starts while you own the engine.
.
I've always wondered about starting an engine for the first time. I don't know, but I would think that the assembly lube slowly over time will run off all the parts, just like oil will do over time.
I know one guy that had a 427ci LSx built early last year and he installed a "pre-oiler". It would jack the entire engine with oil pressure and all parts would get lubed before he turned the key. Pretty cool. But I have no idea how much that cost to put on the engine, I know it wasn't a whole lot.
But its pretty cool to never have engine wear from cold starts while you own the engine.
.
11-09-2009, 08:35 PM
#6
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you should turn your key on check for fuel leeks before trying to start your car, your fuel pump should prime for you. I strongly recommend you use a conventional 10/30 motor oil, No synthetic oil !!!! The rings will not seat if you do use synthetic as a break in oil. I do fill my oil filters before installing them, the engine should prime a soon as it starts. Check for leeks and make sure all of your fluids are full. Run the engine easy through a range of rpm over about 50 miles it should be ready to dyno tune by this time.
11-10-2009, 09:34 AM
#7
If you or the builder did it right, all moving parts should have been pre-lube (assembly lubed) during build, so there should be no scoring of bearings during initial start-up. What I always do during first start-ups is pull the fuel pump fuse/relay so the motor will not fire off. Hit the key a few times (like starting the motor) and let the motor turn over, 2 or 3 times for about 10sec. each. If everything is right (piston to valve, front and rear oil plugs installed, oil pick-up o-ring) you should see the oil pressure gauge start to jump and build a little pressure - just enough to make the needle more. This may take one or two more time depending on if the motor was built tight or loose. Nevertheless, this will start to get the oil moving where it needs to be. If you didn't hear any odd noises during this step - like piston to valve CRASH, install the fuel pump fuse/relay. Turn the key to "ON" (not start) twice pausing each time to listen to the fuel pump cycle. With a shop rag under and covering the valve, use a small screwdriver and push in the Schrader valve on the fuel rail (looks like a tire valve stem on the driver’s side of the fuel rail). Be careful, fuel will be under pressure and will spray if you do not cover the valve while pushing the stem. This will purge any air out of the fuel rail. Do this step one more time, purge the air, and now you should be ready to start the motor.
At first, the motor will be noisy - a lot of tapping - until the lifters build up pressure. For about 10 to 30 sec. Watch your gauges and check for leaks. If everything is right, the oil pressure should build up within seconds. If after 15 sec and no oil pressure or the tapping noise persists beyond one min. shut down and consult your builder for guidance.
I hope this helps.
At first, the motor will be noisy - a lot of tapping - until the lifters build up pressure. For about 10 to 30 sec. Watch your gauges and check for leaks. If everything is right, the oil pressure should build up within seconds. If after 15 sec and no oil pressure or the tapping noise persists beyond one min. shut down and consult your builder for guidance.
I hope this helps.
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11-10-2009, 09:40 AM
#8
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You can remove the oil galley plug on the drivers side front of the block and install a fitting into there and try to pump (or even pour) some oil into the engine that way. Doing this will send oil backwards into the pump, and send some toward the oil filter. This should help in the first start. This is a good way to ensure the pump is full of oil as well. Good luck and and keep us posted how you make out.
Oh, and another thing, this sorta goes along with what H'ville TA is talking about, if you want to do the roll the engine over a few times thing, pull the fuse(s) (or disconnect them) on the coils and remove the spark plugs, this will help the engine roll WAY faster and you should be able to get a better prime and its easier on the starter too.
Oh, and another thing, this sorta goes along with what H'ville TA is talking about, if you want to do the roll the engine over a few times thing, pull the fuse(s) (or disconnect them) on the coils and remove the spark plugs, this will help the engine roll WAY faster and you should be able to get a better prime and its easier on the starter too.
11-10-2009, 10:09 AM
#9
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Not threadjacking here, but I will be putting my motor back together this weekend. I pulled the heads and pistons to replace my rings. I have a stock lq9 in my Silverado SS and have always ran Mobil1 10w-30 synthetic. So when I put oil in it, I should just use regular oil to have the rings set? Will this switch create any problems after running syn for 65k miles? and how long before I can switch back?
11-10-2009, 10:28 AM
#10
This is all you need to do:
-Use a fairly thin CONVENTIONAL oil for initial break in (I use Valvoline 5w30)
-Make sure motor is full of oil, good idea to pre-fill oil filter
-Pull fuel pump fuse in the fuse box in the engine bay
-Take the ignition key and begin cranking the motor. Spin it in 10 second intervals about 2-3 times, by the 3rd time your oil pressure gauge should shoot up. You now have oil pressure, and most parts in the engine are prelubed.
-Take ignition key back out
-Put fuel pump sensor back in
-Put key back in, turn to on position and wait about 5 seconds
-Crank car. It might take a minute until the fuel rail completely fills with fuel and gets to all the injectors
-You'll probably get some racket from the valvetrain. If you do, don't immediately flip out. Sometimes the lifters are loud until they pump up. It should settle down.
That's how I prime LSX engines. Been working well so far since 1998.
-Use a fairly thin CONVENTIONAL oil for initial break in (I use Valvoline 5w30)
-Make sure motor is full of oil, good idea to pre-fill oil filter
-Pull fuel pump fuse in the fuse box in the engine bay
-Take the ignition key and begin cranking the motor. Spin it in 10 second intervals about 2-3 times, by the 3rd time your oil pressure gauge should shoot up. You now have oil pressure, and most parts in the engine are prelubed.
-Take ignition key back out
-Put fuel pump sensor back in
-Put key back in, turn to on position and wait about 5 seconds
-Crank car. It might take a minute until the fuel rail completely fills with fuel and gets to all the injectors
-You'll probably get some racket from the valvetrain. If you do, don't immediately flip out. Sometimes the lifters are loud until they pump up. It should settle down.
That's how I prime LSX engines. Been working well so far since 1998.
11-10-2009, 10:55 AM
#11
Joe. Gibbs. Driven.
or at least a good break in additive. I know everyone thinks that its not as important as a flat tappet setup, but to the contrary, it is just as important to use a good break in oil/additive to help with some of the issues that the LS engines do have, such as oil consumption.
IF you have a shortblock from ANY reputable company, the bearings should have a very liberal amount of break in/assembly lube on them and is normally more viscous than this morning's syrup and pancakes, so it should not "run" off the surfaces.
or at least a good break in additive. I know everyone thinks that its not as important as a flat tappet setup, but to the contrary, it is just as important to use a good break in oil/additive to help with some of the issues that the LS engines do have, such as oil consumption.
IF you have a shortblock from ANY reputable company, the bearings should have a very liberal amount of break in/assembly lube on them and is normally more viscous than this morning's syrup and pancakes, so it should not "run" off the surfaces.
11-11-2009, 12:26 AM
#13
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Remove all the spark plugs, and the fuel pump relay. Disconnect the coil pack main connector on each side. Crank the motor with the key and it will build pressure very quickly. Will sound very unusual because of the missing plugs. Worked great for me after a head/cam swap.
11-11-2009, 08:32 AM
#14
Joe Gibbs Drven Break in oil. Not that I believe their marketing tactics, but there is a reason we include it in ALL of our short blocks or long blocks that are built by us. Not only does it help with the reg hyd flat tappet stuff, but it also helps with proper break in of a few other major components. I would not run that all the time, just on break in, then go to a good dino oil for a little while, then switch to whatever oil you want to spend your money on.
Just my .02
Just my .02
11-11-2009, 07:48 PM
#17
Oil, oil and more oil. Most parts should have been pre-lubed. Since all fuel line are new it is going to take a while to fill all those fuel line and fuel rails and develop the required pressure for the injectors. You could put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail to monitor to pressure until it comes up to spec. I like the suggestion to remove the plug on the front of the block and fill the oil gallery before turning the key.
11-11-2009, 08:07 PM
#18
TECH Resident
Please correct me if I am wrong.
11-14-2009, 03:40 PM
#20
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This is all you need to do:
-Use a fairly thin CONVENTIONAL oil for initial break in (I use Valvoline 5w30)
-Make sure motor is full of oil, good idea to pre-fill oil filter
-Pull fuel pump fuse in the fuse box in the engine bay
-Take the ignition key and begin cranking the motor. Spin it in 10 second intervals about 2-3 times, by the 3rd time your oil pressure gauge should shoot up. You now have oil pressure, and most parts in the engine are prelubed.
-Take ignition key back out
-Put fuel pump sensor back in
-Put key back in, turn to on position and wait about 5 seconds
-Crank car. It might take a minute until the fuel rail completely fills with fuel and gets to all the injectors
-You'll probably get some racket from the valvetrain. If you do, don't immediately flip out. Sometimes the lifters are loud until they pump up. It should settle down.
That's how I prime LSX engines. Been working well so far since 1998.
-Use a fairly thin CONVENTIONAL oil for initial break in (I use Valvoline 5w30)
-Make sure motor is full of oil, good idea to pre-fill oil filter
-Pull fuel pump fuse in the fuse box in the engine bay
-Take the ignition key and begin cranking the motor. Spin it in 10 second intervals about 2-3 times, by the 3rd time your oil pressure gauge should shoot up. You now have oil pressure, and most parts in the engine are prelubed.
-Take ignition key back out
-Put fuel pump sensor back in
-Put key back in, turn to on position and wait about 5 seconds
-Crank car. It might take a minute until the fuel rail completely fills with fuel and gets to all the injectors
-You'll probably get some racket from the valvetrain. If you do, don't immediately flip out. Sometimes the lifters are loud until they pump up. It should settle down.
That's how I prime LSX engines. Been working well so far since 1998.